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I'm seeking any insights/recommendations with the repair process for a loose contact roller assembly on a Niagara 6-28069 locomotive.  It looks like I will need to open up the locomotive to repair it from the inside (either to reaffix the Collector insulator top - if it is a screw) or to hold the nut to tighten the collector (if its a bolt):

(1) Is there a video or other guide with any instructions as to how to disassemble the base of the locomotive to repair the Collector (see below) from above rather than from the bottom (track-side)? I'm a bit intimidated by the layers of components underneath the locomotive and want to approach this intentionally.

More specifically:

(2) Is the (cs-6208069150-p "Collector") that holds the contact roller assembly in place under the locomotive a screw or a  bolt?  It has become loose, and when trying to retighten it, it remains a little slack (perhaps 0.5 mm). Enough so that when the locomotive is returned right-side up, the roller hangs slack below the locomotive.   

In reviewing the Lionel parts list and some exploded diagrams, it appears inside the locomotive chassis (above collector) that the cs-6208069334-p "Collector Insulator Top" receives the  screw/bolt.  If the "collector" is a bolt - that would suggest that there exists a nut on the inside surface of the locomotive to hold it tight.  If a screw - it would suggest that the Collector Insulator Top has a threaded shaft to receive the screw.



Many thanks in advance for any insights or suggestions,

Scott

@Mellow Hudson Mike @JPThut@gunrunnerjohn

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Images (3)
  • IMG_8488: Note one of the collectors was removed as part of the initial assessment.
  • IMG_8489
  • IMG_8490
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The collector assembly is sandwiched between the roller assembly, and the upper insulator. There is a long screw that passes through all of these parts, and then there’s a nut on top. What I’m thinking is giving you a fit, is you’re trying to tighten the screw with the engine upside down, and pressing the screw downwards, it’s just all spinning and you’re accomplishing nothing. So as you begin to tighten the screw, slighty pick up on the roller assembly and turn the screwdriver. You should feel the roller assembly being sucked down to the base plate. Only word of caution, there’s a wire attached to the other side. If you’re successful in tightening the screw, be sure the wire hasn’t spun and is touching ground. You can do a simple test with a voltmeter to accomplish this.

Pat

Thank you Pat ( @harmonyards) for your sage advice. I tried the approach and had some initial success but when I placed the locomotive on the tracks the contact roller dropped down again.  I've ordered replacement parts (bolt, nut, roller assembly, and contact plate, etc) from Lionel. Thank you as well for the heads up regarding the soldered wire to the assembly inside the locomotive.

Though I dont hear anything to suggest that the nut is lose, I fear that may be the issue - and will require opening the locomotive for the repair.   Examining the underside of the locomotive - it is difficult at first pass to determine what might be the minimum number of components necessary to dissemble to access the interior of the contact assembly.

With much thanks to @bmoran4 and @gunrunnerjohn  - I was able to access the lionel product literature posted here    Curiously there is documentation for the 28070 (Atlantic) but nothing for the 28069 (Niagara).  Nonetheless, the Atlantic is a helpful reference.

If there were any other resource guides or videos for how best to modern-era Lionel steam locomotives, that would be extremely helpful as I approach this process with some trepidation.

With gratitude,
Scott

Last edited by Great Lakes RR

There’s no service procedures, no R&R guide, although it’d be nice. You just kinda have to know your way around these locomotives. You kinda jumped the gun ordering all new parts. I don’t think that’s necessary at this point yet. The top insulator has a hex pocket the nut sits in, and keeps it from spinning while tightening. Pretty sure the nut on your model hasn’t cinched down in the hex pocket and is still spinning on the inside and therefore you can’t get it locked down. This locomotive is formidable to take apart. My suggestion at this point would be to have this locomotive serviced by someone who’s well versed with this locomotive. They are not built in “traditional” modern methods, and more resemble a fine scale brass model. There are many layers to disassemble this engine.

Pat

Thank you both! I'm going to attempt the needle nose pliers approach and still have time to cancel the replacement parts if I'm successful.  I'll discuss with the local hobby shop what options might exist for any local repairs as well (there no service centers within 100 miles of my home).   

I had recently shipped my locomotive to Alex Malliae to replace the plastic drive shaft with a metal one and to upgrade the smoke unit. Alex was fantastic and I'd highly recommend him to others. That said, if possible,  I'd like to avoid shipping the locomotive again so as to avoid further possible wear and tear etc.

Thank you both! I'm going to attempt the needle nose pliers approach and still have time to cancel the replacement parts if I'm successful.  I'll discuss with the local hobby shop what options might exist for any local repairs as well (there no service centers within 100 miles of my home).   

I had recently shipped my locomotive to Alex Malliae to replace the plastic drive shaft with a metal one and to upgrade the smoke unit. Alex was fantastic and I'd highly recommend him to others. That said, if possible,  I'd like to avoid shipping the locomotive again so as to avoid further possible wear and tear etc.

Alex is top shelf, no questions there, …if you’re unsuccessful in your approach, Alex is 100% capable of doing this repair for you,…….like I said earlier, there’s at least a gazillion screws to take out to access this locomotive…..I don’t think you can get at the nut on the inside just by removing the top shell, and removing the bottom plate won’t gain you much access as the wires will keep it pretty taught even after those gazillion screws are taken out….maybe Pete can elaborate more??..

Pat

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