Questions RE: Atlas CZ Cars

A scratch through the paint and into the plastic?  I would use water- base silver, and wipe it into the scratch, removing all paint from surrounding area with a damp cloth.  Do not expect a perfect match.  If Atlas offers touch- up in water-base, that would be optimum.

Ed Kelly posted:

Hi All,

Four questions:

1. What are you going to use to lubricate the axles?

Excel lubricants offers a very nice light oil.

2. Can the lights be lit with track power if you use DCC?

Not sure but, I seem to recall that there are switches under each car for either "Battery" or "Track" for powering the lights. Not sure what DCC would have to do with it, but isn't the track constant voltage when using DCC?

3. How to remove the Atlas couplers and replace with KD's w/o damaging the car?

I would think simply removal of the Atlas coupler assembly and replace with Kadee?

4. I have a 1 inch scratch on the roof of one car.  Any ideas on how to fix it?

In my opinion, I would contact Atlas and attempt to return that car for replacement or repair.

Thanks,

Ed

 

 

 

Ed. Lights work fine with DCC.   I usually replace AtlasO scale couplers as in hands off switching operation they do not couple/ uncouple reliably (knuckle spring tension too stiff).  Since I don't switch out Pullmans in my passenger trains, I did't replace the AtlaoO scale coupler on my Cal Zypher 10-6 sleeper.  While AtlasO scale couplers had a reputation for broken knuckles,  they have fixed problem in the latest Kadee 805 clone version.   I've been running  an AtlasO CZ car at the head of a 13 car PRR  The General for years - looks and runs great.   Unless you plan on using magnetic ramps to switch out your car, you can save time and money by retaining the AtlasO couplers. 

IMO the AtlasO Cal Zypher cars are great values - what's the next train Atlas?  How about ACF riveted lightweights as used by PRR, UP, MP and others.

I will go for some MP T&P but lol.

Bob

Ed, all my CZ cars are battery powered. The benefits are no flickering and super free rolling wheels. Just make sure to push the pick-ups away from the wheels.

Is the scratch on the dome area? I have one too, I plan to mask, sand and re paint with airbrush and matching paint.

Santiago,

Over many years, I have developed a sincere hatred of batteries, particularly the ones used in smoke detectors.  They always fail at 2 am.   This is even the case when I change them on a regular basis.  So I prefer reliable power of any kind and, in this case, track power.

The scratch is on the roof and not in the dome area.  I am awaiting a callback from Atlas regarding the scratch.

Thanks,

Ed

Hot Water posted:

Ed Kelly posted:

Hi All,

Four questions:

3. How to remove the Atlas couplers and replace with KD's w/o damaging the car?

I would think simply removal of the Atlas coupler assembly and replace with Kadee?

Thanks,

Ed

 

 

 

 

Have you ever tried to remove an Atlas coupler?  If so you would not be saying that.  You have to pry off the cover plate to remove the knuckle to get to the screws that hold the pocket in place.  Prying off that cover is an exercise in bending the plastic enough to free it without breaking it or the pocket and probably ends up in failure more than 50% of the time until you get the hang of it.  And then it only fails 25% of the time.

Yes, the Atlas coupler pocket does come off with a little patience.  Insert a flat blade screwdriver in the rear of the coupler pocket near the center where the tab inserts into the slot in the back of the gearbox. pick a side of that slot and twist and pry upwards gently and it will come off.  From there remove the spring, coupler and the two screws holding the gearbox in place. 

IIRC, the CZ cars may require a .050 shim to be at the correct height.  there are what look like a couple sets of holes in the bottom of the car, actually only one set are actual holes.  The hole closest to the end of the car and what looks like the 3rd hole from the end of the car.  I tapped them with a 2-56 tap just to clean out the hole a little bit.  From there, I like the Kadee 740 for this car, assemble and attach to the car.  Don't forget the shim though, otherwise the coupler will be slightly higher then your other cars!  I think it also hits the diaphragms as well. Been a while since I converted a few of these cars.

Now, using these holes, and the Kadee 740 gearbox won't bring these cars any closer together.  If you want to bring them in and have the diaphragms touching, you'll need new holes.  Keeping in mind you'll need larger radius curves as well to ensure smooth operation.  I thought about moving the Kadee gearbox back just enough so they slightly touch between the cars and use the side mounting holes on the Kadee gearbox.  Just need to drill new ones and tap with a 2-56 tap and you're good to go.

SANTIAGOP23 posted:

Ed, all my CZ cars are battery powered. The benefits are no flickering and super free rolling wheels. Just make sure to push the pick-ups away from the wheels.

Is the scratch on the dome area? I have one too, I plan to mask, sand and re paint with airbrush and matching paint.

Hey Santiago

Did you remove the electrical pickup from the trucks? If so, and you still have them AND you want to part with them.  I would be happy to take some off your hands for some $$$

I think the problem is going to be trying to match the paint on the cars. not only a scratch but when the color changed a bit, well, good luck.

Dick

The Budd CZ cars were delivered over a period of years from 1947-1949. The CZ never matched uniformly in operation. The stainless naturally weathered and frequent trips though the wash rack yielded a train with subtle stainless color variations between cars. If your a collector of toy trains this may seem to be blasphemy but if your into authentic scale operations like me I prefer a mismatch for certain. I would be trying simulate this regardless if they all matched or not. I really like the mismatch in my cars. I think I have in excess of 25 of them now. Certainly enough to make my 1951-1952 Summer season consist behind a set of 4 stripe Grande PA's.

Mike DeBerg posted:

SANTIAGOP23 posted:

Ed, all my CZ cars are battery powered. The benefits are no flickering and super free rolling wheels. Just make sure to push the pick-ups away from the wheels.

Is the scratch on the dome area? I have one too, I plan to mask, sand and re paint with airbrush and matching paint.

Hey Santiago

Did you remove the electrical pickup from the trucks? If so, and you still have them AND you want to part with them.  I would be happy to take some off your hands for some $$$

Sorry bud, they still on ��

Erik C Lindgren posted:

The Budd CZ cars were delivered over a period of years from 1947-1949. The CZ never matched uniformly in operation. The stainless naturally weathered and frequent trips though the wash rack yielded a train with subtle stainless color variations between cars. If your a collector of toy trains this may seem to be blasphemy but if your into authentic scale operations like me I prefer a mismatch for certain. I would be trying simulate this regardless if they all matched or not. I really like the mismatch in my cars. I think I have in excess of 25 of them now. Certainly enough to make my 1951-1952 Summer season consist behind a set of 4 stripe Grande PA's.

How much of that mismatch be noticeable in 1/48th Eric? I bet with your photography skills you could do a nice pictorial demo of the variances for us to follow as the objects get smaller, even to S and HO.

Ed, give the batteries a try in a car for a while. I have hours of operations and batteries still going strong.

The mismatch doesn't bother me as much as the initial placards with the 3 rail size bolts. I completely re-did the placards on my set, and I'm very happy I did so.

In the following picture you can see the different placard style and the different shades of paint. The paint difference is more noticeable from a distance.

Here you can see how I modeled the screen on the vents...

In the following pictures you can see my placards added to the cars, much thinner profile and overall finer looking. Hope this helps.

I've revamped my CZ diner and obs to RGZ by removing the antenna wires and changed roof details to match .  On the obs several things have to be changed depending on year you want to run . I repainted roof using krylon sliver spray and it matches perfect. You might try a sample piece to see if this works for you.

Mike your cars are amazing. 

Looking good santiago!