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I have these two Lionel R.I units that I purchased for a song that were horribly hand painted. I know how to strip and repaint them but..I have Microscale decals to apply afterward, but it's been a while since I dealt with them. ( by the way they still have a very large variety in O scale in stock) So, after applying the decals what would you folks recommend as the next step as to sealing them without damage? I have learned from experience to ask the experts first. I tried a search of the forum but came up empty handed. Apologies if this is the hundredth repeat of the same question. Any advice will be really appreciated.

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Originally Posted by electroliner:

I have these two Lionel R.I units that I purchased for a song that were horribly hand painted. I know how to strip and repaint them but..I have Microscale decals to apply afterward, but it's been a while since I dealt with them. ( by the way they still have a very large variety in O scale in stock) So, after applying the decals what would you folks recommend as the next step as to sealing them without damage? I have learned from experience to ask the experts first. I tried a search of the forum but came up empty handed. Apologies if this is the hundredth repeat of the same question. Any advice will be really appreciated.

Testors Dullcote semi-gloss or satin finish would work.  Or if the paint you're using has an equivalent.

 

Rusty

Yes, Dullcote or same-brand equivalent. DO NOT use hardware store sealants. Some work,
some don't - meaning paint chemical compatibility can be fine - or it can break your heart.

Dullcote seems to be compatible with almost anything.

I paint and decal things a lot - I'm lettering a friend's Williams Southern FM Trainmaster right now - and learned the above the hard way. Valspar clear will eat the decals themselves for lunch.

Funny you should bring it up:
I just completed a project last week where I painted a pair of MPC 027 Alcos for a friend in
the L&N "stealth" black, cut off the molded-on plastic pilots and mounted the bodies on
a new twin-motor Williams 027 Alco chassis AA set. I would have used the Williams bodies
(nicer and they already mount properly) but the paint job was done on the MPC bodies
before he got the Williams 027 set.  They look great.

What he said.  We used to call it Future Floor Wax, and I find it best applied to things like GG1s with a Q-Tip, going in one direction only.  It dries to an acrylic plastic, and can be polished.  It can also be re-coated with any good gloss or flat, without raising the underneath coats of paint.  Got this trick from a guy who does models for the Smithsonian.

Andre

I am waiting for the replacement number boards and the windows for the un-powered A unit to arrive and I was originally was going to use the Rock's "Rocket Scheme" which has been used on many a model, and then saw the Maroon freight scheme with the road unit numbers prominent on the nose, which I have never seen on a model, so I will probably go with that.  I have the decal stuff to do either one.

 

I got both units for $40.00 so I have a decent budget for re-decorating them. I am one of those guys who wants everything on hand before beginning. I will post photos once they are done

 

Horseshoe Curve and bob 2

 

Thanks much for the tip on the future stuff, I will use that technique..what a great tip. Its much appreciated. I ordered the Dullcoat as suggested by Rusty Traque and D500 .

I really appreciate all the great advice. Thanks much.

Last edited by electroliner

I have three questions about using the futureshine.  Do you apply it only to the actual decals or also the surrounding area to help blend decal edges?

To blend in the edges, you need to have used Gloss paint. apply the decal over gloss paint and brush on the Futureshine. Let the futureshine dry for 24 hrs. 

 

  If I do not dullcote afterward will the decals be too shiny? 

that would be your preference. As long as you used Gloss paint then applied the decal and sealed it with Futureshine, the whole application should blend in as shown below.

 

Has anyone ever used futureshine to seal dry transfers? NOT yet but I will soon. I don't see an issue as long as the dry dransfer is really pressed onto the surface of the model.

 

 

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