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Hello all,

 

   I attended the Worlds greatest Hobby on tour show today, in Edison NJ. Very nice show lots of layouts to view.

While I was there I picked up my new Ross double crossover, from Ross custom switches. Just got home opened the box

and took a close look at the craftsmanship of this unit. I must say it is second to none, the time and quality that was put into

this unit was amazing. Steve is such a great guy to deal with, every time i went over to talk to him i had to wait in line (lol)

That to me shows a great guy with a great product. I finally got to talk with Steve for about a half hour and we had such a good time

talking about trains. I also had the privilege of meeting fellow forum member Dennis Lagrua, we enjoyed talking trains too. I'm glad

i chose Ross switches for my new layout .

 

Thanks

Alex

 

 

 

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Recently I wanted to electrify some of my Ross turnouts using servos.  I was talking to a guy who makes a board to operate the servos for a time period and then shut them down  He was telling me that I should use one of two servos. A for light action or B for heavy loads. When I told him I could blow on the switches to move them back and forth there was a long pause.  He said, "really?".

Ross= Great products, now my #1 source. Best quality switches and track that I have used. All 100% reliable, good looking and USA made. You can't go wrong with Ross.

Steve B (the owner)  - great guy to deal with. Very helpful, customer oriented and he takes great pride in the workmanship of his products.

Price: Costs a bit more than some manufacturers similar products, but the best always costs more.

My layout uses a mixture of Ross and the "other guys" switches so I asked Steve to come out with snap together flat connectors that would enable easy switch replacement. He said that he will consider the idea and if he does it I believe that Ross will do more business.

As for the WGHOT show; it was great being at an all inclusive show with families and children. Much more refreshing, alive, upbeat and enjoyable than attending a morbid meet of cranky old folks run by an organization that can be compared to a nursing home for senior citizens.

I'll sum it up.  No product is better made anywhere in the O gauge train world than Ross Custom Switches.  I think it is a privilege to know Steve Breneisen and to use his switches exclusively on every layout I have built for the last 25 years.  Having done a story on him and how he got to where he is today, I believe it is a marvel that this business has such a high quality professional in it as we do with Steve Breneisen.  You simply cannot go wrong with his products. 

The reason I ask about using the relay, I believe it's a DZ - 1008, with this switch is, well I'm not a big fan.  The relay is intended to power the inside rails so engines don't stall or hesitate going through the switch, which they will.  Problem is, to my knowledge you can't wire this switch for anti reverse.  You cheese out, which you will, and run a train over that switch turned the wrong way - poof - the relay is toast and you start over again.  That smell of a fried DZ 1008 is one I may never forget.  The eight small wires will break your heart if you let them.  That said, not trying to rain on a parade, just not a fan of the double xover.  Two separate xovers spread apart are more functional in most cases.   Big fan of Ross track and switches.  That's what I use.  Just not that darn switch.  Have fun!

I've had one on the layout for over 25 years. They didn't come ready in those days. I use Tortoise switch motors. Not sure what Ready means as far as wiring. I think it's best to solder a small feeder wire to each rail that is isolated. Before plunking it down on the layout. Even if you never hook it to anything.  I used solid 18 gauge bent in an L shape to the underside of the rail. I know the wire is on the wimpy side for O gauge. But you only need juice to get you over a trouble spot. Get it up and running with what Ross provides. It may run fine as is. There's always that one engine though and it may be years before the problem surfaces. I think it's best to have the solution in place if you need to add relays. From what I remember. Most problems centered around going through the diamond. There's a lot going on there rail wise and often times the center rail wasn't the issue. With traction tires, blind drivers not touching the rails. It was a ground issue. The manufactures have done a great job in recent years to eliminate these problems. Multiple pick up rollers, wipers on trailing truck axles and so on. An engine that creeps with speed control of today isn't much fun if it continually has trouble negotiating track. 

 Best of luck with your new layout Alex. I think this time of layout construction is the best. Watching it come to life.

Good morning everyone,

 

Thanks for all the nice comments, and great input.

 

Marty, I will be laying track starting in about two weeks. You will see trains running at the summer bash!!!!!!!

 

Jim, Steve did mention to me about installing the jumper wires yesterday.

 

William, not sure about that yet.

 

Thebeeman, the number of this crossover is 175M

 

Thanks again,

Alex

Of course you are going to wire the two mated switches together.  I should have mentioned that my issue arose because I took the relay wiring a step further and powered four more of the small rails, which if the switch was in the wrong position would blow the relay.  It gave great performance through the switch with all engines, but became problematic from taking it that further step. 

Wiring the two switches together doesn't have any bearing on the performance of the switch.  If the switch is thrown the wrong way without anti derailing, you are still going to roll through it from the back end with the switch points touching the outside rail, possibly derailing a car.  I had mine connecting two mainlines.  That might have had something to do with it.  In hindsight, and next time, I would use two single crossovers

Originally Posted by thebeeman:

Hi Alex

May I ask the Ross # for this xover. I think I can use it.  I have seen other Ross xovers but they were much longer about 48 ins long.  If this one is short enough it could replace 4 turnouts.

Tks

Tommy  

Tommy,  a primary benefit of the double cross-over is its length compared to using four separate switches to accomplish the same function.   

 

Also, RCS' website provides PDFs with dimensions for all the switches, so it's easy to compare them and the space they require.

Last edited by Pingman

Alex,

 

This is a great switch and it solved a yard switching issue that I had.  I have not yet fully installed it, but I expect it to perform very well like all my other Ross switches.  The switches on this Ross double crossover (DX) are #4.

 

William,

 

If the DX switch is wired properly, you should not have any problems with the DZ-1008 relay.  Below is the diagram I’m using to wire my #4 DX (the PowerPoint file is also included).  I’m using DZ-2500 switch machines while Alex is using DZ-1000 switch machines, but the basic wiring is the same.

 

The problem is making sure the diamond outside rails of the two crossing tracks are powered correctly.  This is done using the master switch in the lower right.  When the master (and #2) switch is set for straight (not crossover), the white wire (dotted blue in diagram) from the relay is AC positive energized (center rail power) and allows trains to cross between #3 and #4 switches.  When the master (and #2) switch is set for crossing, the gray wire from the relay is energized allowing trains to cross between the master and #2 switches.  The position of the #3 and #4 switches have no effect on this.

 

If all four switches are set for crossover, this would mean the gray wire is energized and a train going between #3 and #4 switches will cause a short as soon as it hits the diamond.  To prevent this, the green wire acts as a non-derailing input to the master switch and when a train going between the 3# and #4 switches hits those rails, it sets the master (and #2) switch to straight and all is well.

 

I did a quick test of this wiring setup but without the green wire when I first got the switch, but it should work.  If you don’t think it works this way, let me know.

 

UPDATE:  I mistakenly used an older file.  I've updated the correct files.

 

 

 

 

Ross No4 Double X

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Last edited by CAPPilot
Trust me, I know exactly how it operates.  I had other DZ 1008s in operation.  What I did was connect four more leads to the switch rails.  The center rails leading into the switch.  I am prone to overdoing things at times.  You won't know how it operates till you run engines through.  I think I added more feeders because an engine or too would still stall or hesitate going through the switch with just the four jumpers.  Problem that arises by adding the additional jumpers is, if an engine rolls through the wrong way and if that rail is powered as an inside rail and the engine needs an ouside rail -  Zappo.
Originally Posted by Pingman:
Originally Posted by thebeeman:

Hi Alex

May I ask the Ross # for this xover. I think I can use it.  I have seen other Ross xovers but they were much longer about 48 ins long.  If this one is short enough it could replace 4 turnouts.

Tks

Tommy  

Tommy,  a primary benefit of the double cross-over is its length compared to using four separate switches to accomplish the same function.   

 

This is absolutely true.  One advantage of using two pairs of switches, however, is that if using command, you can put them farther apart and use one of the sets of tracks in-between the switch sets as a passing siding. 

 

I have 17 RCS on the current layout, including 2 sets of yard switches that I am using as a cross-over.  However, I have decided to sell about a dozen of them.   I will be replacing these with RCS switches with a large radius turn-out.  I am (and have been) very happy with Steve's product.

 

Jim 

Much more refreshing, alive, upbeat and enjoyable than attending a morbid meet of cranky old folks run by an organization that can be compared to a nursing home for senior citizens.

 

The original train collecting organization, TCA, has, incidentally, been responsible for the steady upswing in 0 gauge products and services over the past several decades, and serves as the largest showcase for this Lionel-based hobby. Even this fine forum would probably not exist in its present form had not the nursing home for cranky senior citizens kept operating through the last 60 years.

 

I wish more people shared your disdain for the TCA York experience. It would make it easier for us cranky old senior citizens (you, know, the ones with disposable income, who support the new and old manufacturers regardless of the highs and lows of the economy) to creep down the aisles in our walkers and scooters, dropping hundred dollar bills wherever we go.

 

PLEASE stay away if you are so opposed to the meet. We appreciate the elbow room your absence creates.

.

 

Last edited by Arthur P. Bloom
I agree that by using two single crossovers you can create a passing siding.  Advantageous if this is on the mainline connecting two loops.
If you use the relay on a regular single Ross switch you will fry the relay if you roll through it the wrong way.  That's why it is best to wire the switch with anti reverse.  Roll through it switched the wrong way and the switch will change before the engine comes in contact with a rail powered the wrong way.  Which you can't do with the double crossover.

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