Ross switch and DZ1000 controler

Try sending Steve at Ross an an email. He has always responded quickly for me.

Hal

Yes, I will do that in the morning.

You didn't mention the yellow wires. They should be connected too.

Yes, they go connected too.  I did not have a problem until I reversed the led's

I think rather than reversing the wires, Steve would tell you to pull out the LED's and reverse them. They pull straight up and just plug in. 

I believe its an inherent problem with the controller. I think I've experienced every problem written about the DZ1000 and have tried all the "fixes"but alas none of them have fixed the issue. The controller switches the track and now that's all I care about. The diodes either on the switch or the controller never match correctly the position of the track.

Steve

email Dennis Zander he will respond.

I had a similar problem with my DZ 1000 controllers mounted on a conductive surface.

The LED's are polarized, the nature of an LED.   There is a flat side, on the LED, that should match either (flat side), of the two holes.  Use care in pulling, and replacing the LED's.   Note the flat bottom of the RED LED hole.  The GREEN LED hole flat spot is to the top of this picture.  

Rescued Trains posted:

I believe its an inherent problem with the controller. I think I've experienced every problem written about the DZ1000 and have tried all the "fixes"but alas none of them have fixed the issue. The controller switches the track and now that's all I care about. The diodes either on the switch or the controller never match correctly the position of the track.

Steve

Matching:  Green to Through, and Red to Diverge, is done by switching the LED's.   Keep in mind the the LED's have a flat side that matches the flat side of the hole each is set into.  

Flip the LEDs 

Mike CT, I can't bring up you picture.  I will look tonight for the flat side on the led bulbs and sockets.  Who knew?  Thanks for all of the responses.  It's a great forum.

I used Z machines on my last layout. Had problems with them and I really don't like the look. Tried hiding them under small mounds but really doesn't work well. Now I'm going back the under table motor mounts. A little more work but looks great and if the motor burns out they are easy to replace. Don

@scale rail will you be using Tortoise?  What kind of motors and control boards??

We ran into this issue with DZ1000's at the club. If I recall when I swapped the LED's with each other I had to remove the flat key that dictates which way the LED goes in and reverse the polarity of the LED. I don't remember if it was with one or both.

Forest

I have some Tortoise, but most of mine old/new PFM machines. Picked up bunch of new ones years ago. Don

As long as you match the LED flat and socket flat keying with switch position it should work.  My control panel is painted metal.  I had a significant number of controllers where the LED sockets protruded beyond the rear plain of the controller.  This resulted in short circuits between internal controller LED solder connections .  The pattern of shorts varied from controller to controller which resulted in all kinds of abnormal operation and signaling.   Grinding down the LED socket protrusions corrected the problem. 

following this thread

shorling posted:

As long as you match the LED flat and socket flat keying with switch position it should work. 

That is not what we encountered. I am sure I had to reverse the polarity of the LED's when switching them. The switch had to be made when moving the switch machine from one side of the switch to the other or when the out position of the switch was aligned as the thru route.  I guess it is best to call Dennis Zander from Z-stuff.

Forest

I have it working now.  Not sure what the problem was.  I think a loose ground nut on one of my ZW's.  Mike CT, your pictures really helped me see the flat spots, the light has to be just right.