Scalecoat 1 paint question

Same as Laidoffsick, no problem with it.

I've only applied it with an airbrush.

Thanks guys, I appreciate the feedback. I actually phoned Weaver and asked them this same question and they didn't know the answer....amazing.

Bob

Different company, different paint...probably best to say "Don't know."

Scalecoat I offers Flat, Satin and Gloss glazes.

Simply because I have a stock of the Testers and none of the Weavers....thus the use of what I have especially in view of it's now confirmed compatibility.

....and don't believe everything you read on Forums.

Best to test first.

Yes I agree Matt....a test piece for sure. I am aware Weaver sells all these products, that was never the issue, just trying to make use on what I have already verses ordering and waiting.

Part of the problem with applying  any paint to these models is you have no idea what has been applied on the other side of the Big Pond.   I had some issues cause by mold release agent, that was difficult to remove, and one really weird application to several side frames for trucks, Atlas SW models, that for some reason when the paint dried, it was glossy (normally a dull, flat grey).

"Best to test first"  IMO

Be careful.  I have had few problems with Dullcoat over Scalecoat, but when I do, they are big problems!  A Scale Coat clear gloss will get attacked by anything lacquer based, and turn into crinkle finish.  So if I want Dullcoat, I first coat the ScaleCoat with Future Floor Wax as a barrier.  I have no trouble with gloss black - I shoot whatever I want over it.

If you still have Floquil, while most colors can be thinned with Lacquer thinner, the Dullcoat needs Dio-Sol, whatever that is.

I've  sprayed perhaps 200+ brass cars and locomotives with lacquer thinned Dullcoat or Glosscoat (sometimes a 50/50 mix for a satin finish) over Scalecoat  and never  had a single problem.  But if you are concerned here is a process that should eliminate risk, while assuring you get the desired finish. 

Before spraying any model I use an empty soda can (from the recycle bin) and spray the paint on it to make sure I have the right thinning and air pressure to get the finish I want.  Turning the can in the light will reveal issues with runs, inadequate cover, or tooth.  Play with the paint/air mix until you get the finish you want, then spray the model.  Keep that "test"  can around as you'll use it again when it's time for the Dullcoat.  When you're ready to spray the Dullcoat try it over the Scalecoat painted area on the "test" can.  The test shot should tell you if you have the Dullcoat thinned right, and if there is any negative interaction with the Scalecoat.

Last recommendation - don't use a spray can to paint fine model trains - invest in an airbrush.  It's far easier to control and will be lower cost in the long run.

Ed Rappe

If it has been baked rather than air dried then it shouldn't be a problem.

I bake everything.  Scale Coat clear will get eaten.  Try it.

Good thoughts, Keystoned Ed!!  I usually test my paint on a glossy paper, but your can idea is outstanding.

Peter

Peter - I can't take credit for the soda can idea, it came from a pro-painter.

Bob2  I'm trying to understand why you've had problems spraying Dullcoat over Scalecoat1.  After rereading your post above it may because you are using Diosol to thin Dullcoat.

 Dullcoat 1160 (bottled Dullcoat) is labeled as a lacquer and the instruction on the bottle recommend Testor’s 1159 lacquer thinner.  The problems you’ve experienced may have been caused buy using a thinner not formulated for use with a  lacquer.

  As previously posted, I’ve sprayed Dullcoat over Scalecoat1 on hundreds of pieces of rolling stock (several examples being the brass hoppers on the OGR Bob Parri thread) without any issues – but always thinned with lacquer thinner.  If you’re still in doubt run some tests with the recommended thinner.

, 

Ed Rappe 

I've painted many engines with Scalecoat I, baked them at 175 for a couple of hours (don't bake the wheels!  Don't ask how I know this)and usually let them sit for a day.  I use Detail Black with a bit of MOW gray mixed in to kill the dead black color which leaves a good glossy surface.  When all the decal work is done and cleaned up I use a mix of glosscote/dullcote to match the sheen that I'm looking for. I usually use a little more Dullcote mix on the underside of the boiler and running gear.

I don't paint diesels.

I used to use DuPont gloss black with a little of their gray primer mixed in, but this was the old Nitrocellulose lacquer.   I finally ran out, they don't make it any more and I can't find thinner that would work either.   Everything today is acrylic.

Ed - I have no problems dull coating black or boxcar red - only the clear coat.

I thin Floquil with lacquer thinner and use it to weather Scale Coat paint.  The Floquil version of Dullcote turns to flakes in my airbrush if I thin with lacquer thinner, but not if I use Dio Sol.  The only time I use Testors is in a rattle can, and I do not use it often.

Twice I have eaten Scale Coat clear with Floquil dull - both times were darn near catastrophic, since I had put a great deal of time in to making the underlying paint look good.

Again, only the clear coat gets eaten, not the colors.

Don't confuse Floquil Flat Finish with Testors Dull-Cote. Flanger originally ask about Testors Gloss or Dull, and the Floquil Flat Finish is a very different product. I used to use the Floquil Flat Finish years ago, but had problems with ruining finishes of different types so I switched to Testors Dull-Cote thinned with laquer thinner and never looked back.

Mystery solved - we were posting about Testor's Dullcoat, and Bob2 was posting about Floquil's dulling product - Flat finish.   Two completely different formulated paints. 

Ed Rappe