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Guys,

Does anyone know what I need to just hook an MTH smoke unit directly to track power and a slide switch for off/ on control?  Working on a unit that will have either ERR or Blunami.  I have not seen where Soundtraxx has published recommendations for hooking in smoke units.  So I thought I might by-pass the board all together for now. 

Thanks,

Troy

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Thanks Gun...

In this case I am repainting an old UP Detector car from MTH.  I have been converting all MTH to ERR or Blunami.  In this case it will be ERR since Soundtraxx does not seem to have a gas engine sound board.  So the short story here... I should have no trouble just hooking the MTH smoke unit into the board?  As I recall, I cannot do that with the MTH couplers for some reason (that are proto 2 or 3.)

One side question... you helped me a few years back "tune" a TMCC base.  It worked great and has continued to do so.  I operate the layout with 2 TMCC handhelds.  Over the past few weeks one of the remotes has started to misbehave.  Turn up the speed, it goes faster... turn down the speed and unfortunately it goes FASTER.  Is there anything specific I can look for that is causing the issue in that controller?  The second one works just fine.



Thanks,

Troy

You can power the smoke unit from the ERR board, but there's a little extra work.  You need to swap the resistor for a 27 or 30 ohm resistor, and you have to have a small 5VDC power supply for the fan.  You can just use a diode, 100uf 35V cap, and a TO-92 5V linear regulator and roll your own P/S, power it from the heater power supply.

The remote issue you have sounds like the optical encoder, perhaps something has come loose?  First step is a physical inspection to see if anything obvious is amiss.  If the encoder has gone bad, look for an old dead CAB1 and hope it isn't the encoder that died.

Once again... your da' best Gunner! 

The electronics part is a bit beyond me... sounds like I could potentially ruin the ERR board.  Seems better to just get a compatible smoke unit... or maybe... no smoke at all.  I'm painting it to match my railroad and will be a pull/ push for two centerline train cleaning cars just for fun.  You have any ERR compatible smoke units in stock?  If so, send me a link if ya don't mind.

I know this has nothing to do with the remote but... I'm old enough to remember some old radios had to be "dialed" in once in a while because the tuning would "float".  Should I be adjusting that TMCC base unit every few years?

Troy

@Crazy J RR posted:

The electronics part is a bit beyond me... sounds like I could potentially ruin the ERR board.  Seems better to just get a compatible smoke unit... or maybe... no smoke at all.  I'm painting it to match my railroad and will be a pull/ push for two centerline train cleaning cars just for fun.  You have any ERR compatible smoke units in stock?  If so, send me a link if ya don't mind.

Actually, you're not risking your ERR board, I use the MTH smoke units all the time.  Like I said, a resistor swap is really all that's required, you have to remove the lower value dual resistor setup that MTH uses.

I have Lionel rectangular smoke units in stock that include the 5V supply for the fan, and I can equip them with the smoke resistor of your choice if you want those.

I actually created an improved PCB for the Lionel rectangular smoke unit that does a couple of the enhancements I usually do for new smoke unit installs.

DIY Rectangular Smoke Unit Replacement PCB

Handy to replace cooked smoke PCBs like the one on the right.



@Crazy J RR posted:
I know this has nothing to do with the remote but... I'm old enough to remember some old radios had to be "dialed" in once in a while because the tuning would "float".  Should I be adjusting that TMCC base unit every few years?

Only if you're having a problem with it.  Many of them go their whole life without any adjustment.

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