Stuck in "neutral"

Sounds like the e-unit is stuck.. try tapping the engine and see if you can get it unstuck.. if that works then I would suggest servicing the e-unit or have someone service it for you if you are not comfortable with doing it yourself.

This may sound silly, but have you accidentally locked it into neutral by moving the switch/lever?

Thanks for responding. I did check the engine lever and it doesn't change the situation.

I second LionelTed's suggestion.  I myself often get stuck in neutral.  A shift slap to the head usually gets me out of it, too.

If that does not work, most prewar stuff is easy to take apart unless screws have corroded badly, etc., and you could try taking the body off and carefully checking and reppositioning the e-unit while also determining if it needs servicing, etc.

Make sure that you slap/tap it only when the power to the track is off. When the power is on, the E-unit will stay where it is.

If that doesn't work, remove the whistle button from the circuit and wire up the transformer and try the loco again. If the loco works, then the button is defective.

I have removed the motor from the engine but have had no success in getting the the motor out of "neutral". Is there an explanation of how this prewar reversing unit works and is constructed on this website? Stangely, I no more about TMCC and DCS than this "ancient" technology (well, I guess it is about as ancient as I am).

When voltage is supplied to the track, the E-unit coil attracts a round metal rod at the center. A "claw" at the far end of the rod engages a tooth on the E-unit drum and turns it part way. Metal contacts and two sets of metal "fingers" at the side and on the bottom of the E-unit change the path of the current through the motor and field. The motor runs in Forward, Neutral, Reverse, Neutral, Forward . . .

The rod can get magnetized and stay up in the coil.

Or a tooth on the drum can be broken.

Or the metal contacts are dirty / corroded

Or the "fingers" aren't making contact.

Check one after the other until you track down the problem. Repairs are

usually simple and straightforward.

Sometimes you can push the drum around with a toothpick, or manually move the plunger and "claw", to get the drum into position to run enough for some trial operation. Sometimes the E-unit needs a good cleaning with contact cleaner because the contacts can get oxided from disuse. Some E-units wear out parts from extended use.

Also be aware that some old transformers may not drop the track voltage low enough to cycle an E-unit.

I have taken the E-unit apart and the "drum" is most likely the problem and needs to be replaced. I think the solenoid has failed too. Someday I'll have to replace the whole unit. I'm wondering if I can bypass the E-unit and wire the engine to go forward at all times as that is primarily how it will be used in the future, I would appreciate imput on how to do this. Thanks, Mike

If you are going to do that why don't you just pick up an electronic e-unit and install that. Save the original e-unit should you ever wont to sell the engine.

They have them for both AC and DC operation, so I'm sure you can find one to deliver the AC voltage to your motor.

Good luck.

Switch the connections at the brushes if the motor runs the wrong way.

Thanks for all the valuable information above. I decided to get a replacement for the e-unit and am awaiting its arrival. I'll post my success or lack of it after attempting the installation. Thanks again. Mike