Volume Control on Z1000 transformer/control

Welcome!! I'm with you as I just got back into ogauge in the last couple months, as for the set you purchased it's a great starter set! But I'm just a bit confused on what "hidden" sound  button your referring to

GT3fan,

Welcome to the world of "O" Gauge trains and this forum. Greatest hobby going.

Your Z-1000 transformer doesn't have a volume control. The volume control is probably on your remote. Also, there should be a volume control on your engine. Its probably a screw located on the underside of the locomotive. GT3fan, with your set there should of been a instruction manual showing you the location of the volume control on your new diesel. You will fine this forum to be a great resource for help. Enjoy your new train. It will give you a lifetime of enjoyment.

Thank you for your quick reply! I have read the instructions and found the volume control in the engine, however, i would like to control it as it running to accommodate the conversation with my friends. Can I use the wireless remote simultaneously with the Z1000? That would be great! Thanks again!

welcome to the forum.

 

I see you are in calif.

 

how close to san diego are you?

 

we welcome you to stop by the san diego 3-railers in the san diego model railroad museum.

 

if you stop by on a Tuesday (not free Tuesday, 1st Tuesday) bring your train for a short run. 

Welcome to O-gauge!!  I will try to answer you.  First, are you running your new MTH engine under DCS or conventional or something else?  Under DCS, with the remote go to menu/sound and change the settings the way you want.  if running conventional, on the bottom of the Diesel engine you will see a pot setting.  Look in your manual to see which pot is for sound.  Turn clockwise to increase the volume sound.  This is enough to start with and if you need more help getting this resolved keep asking.  Tremendous resource here.  There is no sound setting on the transformer.  ENJOY!!

 

GT3fan,

Yes, you should be able to use your remote with your Z-1000 transformer.

 

 

Welcome to the forum, over the past year or so I have received execellent advice, on some really simple problems but they were not simple to  me before I asked.

 

Brent

I'm a little concerned here.

 

I think you are saying you have the set, with the remote control, but you also purchased a Z1000 with the speed control knob and a horn and whistle button.

 

I don't think you should plug both into the track at the same time. I don't know what will happen if you are controlling speed, with the knob and then while controlling volume with the handheld, bump the speed button, on the hand held. I think what would happen, would be the 2 track voltages would sum and you would just go faster, you just don't want to have both systems supplying speed voltage so that you are sending more than 21V to the train.

 

Does anyone know if the IR receiver will work, if there is track voltage, from the Z1000 with knob speed control, but no transformer plugged into the receiver? 

 

I am holding off trying to connect 2 Lock-ons on the same track for now…to see if anyone else have any other inputs. Thanks again Martin.

Anything that makes your wife happy, will add to the hobby!

You got it :-)

GT3fan,

If you choose to use the Z-1000 power brick and the remote controller that came with the set, you will not be using the controller that came with the Z-1000 or the power supply that came with the set.

Jim (GT3fan, please correct me, if I misunderstand)

 

GT likes the volume control of the remote and his wife likes the speed control on the Z1000 Controller knob. He was hoping to make use of both features simultaneously.

I am not sure, but I think he could do that. He could use the remote to adjust the volume on his diesel. He would use controller that came with the Z-1000 to control the speed of the train. He would not use the power supply (brick) that came with the set. He would use the brick that came with the Z-1000. To be sure, he could call MTH tomorrow.

Jim,

 

If one uses the Z-Controller and the DCS Remote Commander simultaneously, the engine will never go into reverse

 

Every time the Z-Controllere is turned to 0, the engine will stop. When  power is turned back up via the Z-Controller, the enigma e will come up in neutral in DCS.

 

Then, when DIR is pressed on the DCS Remote Commander handheld, the engine will go forward. If direction is pressed on the Z-Controller, the engine will simply stutter and continue moving forward.

 

The two are incompatible.

 

Further, connecting two power sources to the same track can result in potentially very bad things happening.

 

I suggest that the original poster read and understand the manual that came with the DCS Remote Commander before proceeding much furthet.

 

 

Thanks Barry.

Thanks for all your help Jim and Barry! I will consult with MTH before I do anything with that idea. Thanks again!.

Gt
having read Barrys response. You may want to go back to the LHS and ask why they sold you the extra controller. It will unless you buy a second train and loop, I dont see yoi needing it. On the other hand you might be able to sell the handheld parts on the for sale forum.

I don't understand why you would need the z1000 in addition to the remote Commander that came with the starter set. I'm not sure the speed steps in the z1000 are substantially different than those on the Remote commander.

That said I believe the increase in power offered by the z1000 brick does equate to a substantial upgrade from the power offered in the starter set and that alone may offer more speed steps with the z1000. I'm not sure about this though.

If I were you I'd set the controller that came with the z1000 aside and hook up the remote commander to the z1000 power supply and be happy.

If you choose to use two lock-ons for your rails make sure the power to each lock on is coming from the same power source. Barry should be able to confirm this would mean connecting the output from the remote commander to a bus bar and from the bus bar connect to the lock-ons. I'm almost positive that's how I've had my remote commander hooked up to my z1000 power supply for the past five years without any problems.

Matthew,

 this would mean connecting the output from the remote commander to a bus bar and from the bus bar connect to the lock-ons.

That's correct.

 

Treat the output of the DCS Remote Commander receiver exactly like a TIU channel output.

Thanks for your help again guys! This has been very helpful to me.

The speed button on your DCS Remote CDR set should give you the same precision or even better control.    The engine has speed control so it also has momentum.  As others have said, only one or the other should be used.  Maybe the LHS you purchased this from can help you.  If you like running with throttle and not the remote, you just swap them out.  You just won't have the same level of remote control as you do with the remote.  G

Sounds great! Thanks