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After several years of serious flirtation with O-Gauge, I think I want to get into a more serious relationship.

 

Committing to a track system seems like a critical issue and I'd like to try and make a sensible choice. Now before you all start shouting "Gargraves and Ross!" at me, let me sketch out my situation and prejudices.

 

OK, prejudices first. I really don't like track with cast on roadbed (Fastrack, Industrial Rail, etc.) I won't go that route. Irrational, I know, but there it is.

 

So, I currently don't really have space for a dedicated layout. My thinking is that I'll probably make to with a series of temporary/floor layouts to run trains until I can clear out space for a small- to mid-sized layout.

 

Part of me thinks that this is leading me in the direction of good old-fashioned tubular track. To be honest, I get a kind of retro-nostalgia kick out of it. But there are other track systems I like the look of.

 

So, with all the blah blah out of the way, could you guys give me some wisdom on how you would rate the following track systems on Price, Reliability, Availability and how much work does it take to set up and take down a layout.

 

O-31 Tubular

Atlas O

MTH Scaletrax

RMT?

 

Any if anyone can get me over my irrational dislike of roadbed track, that would be welcome too.

 

-Sam

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Originally Posted by P&0 Rail Baron:

 

So, I currently don't really have space for a dedicated layout.

 

Price, Reliability, Availability and how much work does it take to set up and take down a layout.

 

O-31 Tubular

RMT

 

-Sam

Simplified, sounds link good 'ol fashioned Tinplate. Based upon the criteria you defined, I would rate Lionel tubular #1 and RMT or WbB as #2.

 

For a floor layout, I really don't think you'll be too happy with Atlas or Scaletrax.

 

Gilly

Last edited by Gilly@N&W

Go to the train store and see what is in stock, just you can see it in person. I use Gargraves track and Ross Switches. The track seems to be available from tons of places, Ross Switches are from Ross directly and are manual thrown. That being said I do not bend track(unless its a real slight curve needed) I buy premade curves which do vary just a little in radius, but nothing to worry about. There is also no detail on the ties. The blackened center rail needs the black removed before soldering power wires to it.

 Never liked Lionel Fastrack when I had some from a set. Tubular track will work great on carpet railroads and is bulletproof track system.

 Atlas track I seen is the most detailed I think on the market and I believe it is solid rails, other can explain Atlas, MTH etc

 

Todd

I use Atlas track and switches on my layout but always use Lionel Fastrack on the carpet around the Christmas tree or on the carpet in my son's room when they want to run their trains just because it goes up and down easily and seem a little more durable for little boys stepping on it. If you plan on having any switches I would NOT recommend going with Atlas track and switches for a temporary layout. I have used Atlas track on the carpet for a simple loop and it works fine for that. I think it's noticeably quieter than fastrack but that may just be me. 

If I were in your situation, I'd go with traditional tubular. The track has more than proven itself as a quality system. It works great for a carpet/floor layout and adding ties to get a more realistic look will be a piece of cake when the time is right for a permanent layout. It's also easy to find on the secondary market. You'll save a lot of money over the other systems.  By the way, it is 100% compatible with the RMT track.

If this is carpeted space, I'd really suggest Fastrack.  Oil and debris from the trains will stain the carpet if you use tubular.  It also is likely to cut the hands of the assembler if you aren't careful.  If it's not carpet, then tubular would be fine, although it will scratch wooden floors.

 

There's a reason Fastrack and other similar products have become popular.  They are expensive but easier to use, and more protective of floor coverings or materials.  Just some caveats to consider.

You can't go wrong with tubular on the floor for a temporary setup...you can always decide to use something else when you go up to a standard workbench setup. The RMT/K-line SuperSnap would also work if you want more natural ties , but its not as plentiful or as available as tubular. If you're running older equipment with sliding shoes, the modern more scale switches can create problems with snagging if you don't do some modifications.

 

Peter

I am in total agreement with Gilly based on your requirements, traditional tubular. 

 

As far as the FasTrak and helping you get over it I would maybe suggest two considerations.  For a carpet layout, it's wonderful, as Landsteiner has said. 

The carpet completely kills the noise, and it keeps oil off the carpet.  And if you want to do realistic ballast once you set up your permanent layout, FasTrak already has the ballast profiled for you.  Just glue and spread, using a vastly smaller amount than if you were doing unballasted track. 

 

Hope this helps, and have fun whatever you do.

Last edited by TrainsRMe

I have tons of O and O-27 tubular but while i am finishing the basement for the eventual empire I LOVE the advantage of fastrack on the carpet.  Quick and easy to set up and store.  Also it seems to be fairly good at holding it's value so while you are deciding and planning you can be running trains without a serious loss when you upgrade to whatever system you decide.  

Originally Posted by P&0 Rail Baron:

 

OK, prejudices first. I really don't like track with cast on roadbed (Fastrack, Industrial Rail, etc.) I won't go that route. Irrational, I know, but there it is.

 

So, I currently don't really have space for a dedicated layout. My thinking is that I'll probably make to with a series of temporary/floor layouts to run trains until I can clear out space for a small- to mid-sized layout.

 

 

O-31 Tubular

Atlas O

MTH Scaletrax

RMT?

 

Any if anyone can get me over my irrational dislike of roadbed track, that would be welcome too.

 

-Sam

Sam, the thing about track with built in roadbed is:

 

The built in roadbed protects the floors (especially carpet) from the trains and lubricants.

 

BUT more important(maybe) the built in roadbed protects the trains from the floor again especially carpet fibers.  I have heard countless stories where carpet fibers and floor debris has wound up (literally) in the toy train mechanisms.

 

Just a thought.

Ron

Originally Posted by P&0 Rail Baron:

After several years of serious flirtation with O-Gauge, I think I want to get into a more serious relationship. So, with all the blah blah out of the way, could you guys give me some wisdom on how you would rate the following track systems on Price, Reliability, Availability and how much work does it take to set up and take down a layout.

-Sam

Sam,

In case you have not noticed, it appears to be tube track, Hands Down!

I concur with all of the above for that, Carpet Central. Mainly because it's all I've used since 1947. Since you will be on the floor try to buy the track with the added ties. It will be a bit more steady due to less flexing action.

 

In case you want a few switches go with the early postwar Lionel be they 022 or 072. What ever you do, dot buy any of the modern 072 switches (they're garbage).

 

I've covered enough to get you started, Good Luck!                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                               

Just how much space do you have? I would go with an attempt at a small fixed layout (3 x 5 even) before committing to carpet/floor layout. Or, you could build your layout as a set of 3 x 3 plywood tiles that go on the floor. Then you can go with any track and roadbed combo you want. When you finally have space take your tiles and nail em to framework. This is what a friend of mine did. Worked really well.

If ever there was an application for Fastrak, carpet centrals would be it. Though, I can't argue against the dislikes for this system, in this arena, as it was intended for, the product excels. As mentioned, it protects floor coverings, prevents fibers from engaging gears, stays put, and is readily available. There's tons of it available on the secondary market, and when your able to move off the floor, you'll have little difficulty liquidating in a similar fashion.

This is a lot of great information. Thanks, guys. It looks like O-31 tubular might have the edge here all things considered.

 

I know that Fastrack has some obvious advantages in my situation, but I just don't like the look of it and I balk a bit at the cost- especially the switches. I like the look of MTH Realtrax much better, but a search of the topics here gives me the impression that it falls down a bit vs. Fastrack on reliability and ease of use.

 

So what's up with the new o-31 switches that makes them so bad?

 

S

P&O Rail Baron,

   Yes the RMT is the original K-Line Super Snap, including the low Voltage K-line Super Snap switches, which are seriously high quality switches, that work perfectly.  Lots of different ways to build, with Lionel Conventional tubular and 072/022 type switches or RMT with low voltage Super Snap switches or FasTrack with new Command Control switches.  All these are great ways to build temporary floor layouts.  We build our multi level Christmas layouts with FasTrack and FT CC switches, we run both DCS & Legacy, with the FasTrack layouts.  The wireless Command Control FT switches operate

perfectly from track power.

PCRR/Dave

   

DSCN0913

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Last edited by Pine Creek Railroad
Originally Posted by Jim S:

I am planning a new layout and would like to use Atlas track. However, I am concerned with its availability.  Is this stuff available again or are we still waiting?

Great track and a good choice for a permanent layout. I would not recommend it for a "Carpet Central" layout.

Gilly

Originally Posted by P&0 Rail Baron:

I know that Fastrack has some obvious advantages in my situation, but I just don't like the look of it and I balk a bit at the cost- especially the switches.

The FasTrack switches have a great reputation. I sold off all of mine NIB at ~$0.50 to a $1 when I converted to Gargraves/Ross. Check eBay and the For Sale Forum here. You just may get a deal. The 036 Manual switches are pretty inexpensive.

Gilly

If you go with FasTrack now, on the carpet, for reasons listed above, you can then use that same track for a more permanent layout, using the plastic ballast as a underpinning for more realistic ballast (white-glued on) and other scenic materials.  When you get done, it hardly looks like FasTrack.  And the switches are very reliable.

   Bob A.

  

coaling station near Joella Canyon

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For what it's worth I would recommend Fastrack as well. You just can't beat it for quick set up and tear down. It is incredibly durable and maintains great electrical connectivity. Fastrack switches cannot be beat for performance.

I use Fastrack for my permanent layout and for Christmas or just anytime fun floor layouts with my son. I even use Fastrack with my Marx tinplate becasue it holds together so much better than tubular (just can't use the switches due to the Marx fat wheel). 

 

Bob A. your Fastrack looks great ballasted on your layout!

 

 

Jay in Ottawa

As I tend to say a lot, to each his own.

 

 

For myself, I prefer the 0-27 track profile compared to the higher profile tubular track.

 

Also, the rails themselves look like rails to me, and not the Fastrack "flat-bar" appearance. 

 

There are some manufacturer's switches that I find horrendously expensive for no good reason. After picking some of the expert brains on this forum, I seek out and use K-Line 0-27 profile switches for my excursion into 3-rail O gauge.

 

If I were to go with a floor layout myself, I would still go with the 0-27 profile and add ties and ballast to it when I built the permanent layout.

 

Just my $0.02 or less.

Despite your preferences, I really would go with Fastrack. Not only will it be cleaner and easier, the track work will be smoother and switches easy to work with and much better quality. 

 

Another thing to consider - with tubular track, after taking it apart so many times, the connections loosen. Of course you can tighten them up on your own but my experience has been regardless of how well/often you tighten the connections, they still aren't that great, especially compared to a product like Fastrack. 

 

Don't get me wrong, I love tubular just as much as the next guy. I use it on my layout at home but I put it down, screw it down, and leave it alone. I have no conductivity issues and trains run great. 

First off I do not like Fastrack or MTH version but with that being said for something your going to put together for a few days and then take down off and on I would suggest get enough for a fair size oval. Once you get ready to go more permanent you can look at stuff like Gargraves with ross switches or you could even go from the git-go ( I've never used this but have heard nothing but good) atlas track system and just build from there but if you get the fast track remember you can always resell it on ebay and recoup some of your money.  ( by the way I use gargraves and Ross switches also. ) 

I know this coaling station!I see it on youtube.How is Joe doing?I do the same as Bob here.I use fastrack and modify it to look better.NickOriginally Posted by Bob Anderson:

If you go with FasTrack now, on the carpet, for reasons listed above, you can then use that same track for a more permanent layout, using the plastic ballast as a underpinning for more realistic ballast (white-glued on) and other scenic materials.  When you get done, it hardly looks like FasTrack.  And the switches are very reliable.

   Bob A.

  

coaling station near Joella Canyon

 

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Last edited by rockstars1989

Lionel tubular is bullet proof, with that said I would use the 027 profile track. it is virtually the same height as Ross and Gargraves  and mate up easily with adapter pins to Ross switches (always available in any size you need and the smoothest most reliable switches out there) and Ross and Gargraves track. Atlas track is very hard to get right ow and Atlas switches have been for a while. all Ross switches and track are made in the USA which counts for a lot to me.

Sam, while I agree with the above comments regarding the superiority of Fasttrack when used on carpet with kids around... If you happen to like the RMT (old K-Line SuperSnap Track) seen in Larry3RailsTrains' photo above, I just got an e-mail from RMT that many switches & track sections are back in stock... including extra-long 20, 30 & 40-inch straights.  I have some of the SuperSnap track & really like it.   Its connections are still not as durable on carpeting with kids stepping on as is Fasttrack, though.  See Link:  RMT Snap Track

 

Last edited by RadioRon

If I had to rebuild my layout all over again, I would go with Lionel's fast track. I wouldn't be able to afford the cost of Atlas O track at today's prices. I have 2 main lines (37' x 20') 7-track stub yard 18' long, oil refinery, freight depot, and grainery with 17 Atlas O switches and uncoupling tracks. I don't want to add up the cost of that track with today's prices!!!!

When using tubular track on a layout I have found it best to secure the track to the table or plywood. Another thing that I do is to use track clips to keep the track together better. 027 track needs track clips whenever I have used it.

 

I try to use the post war 022 switches, not the modern look-a-like switches, as they work better and work with all brands of trains. The other type of switch that I have used is Gargraves switches.

 

There are many opinions out there and many people like a different style of track, but I am staying with tubular tracvk, either 031 style or Gargraves. I have tried a couple of other track systems and not impressed at all to say the least. 

 

Lee Fritz

Originally Posted by Bob Anderson:

If you go with FasTrack now, on the carpet, for reasons listed above, you can then use that same track for a more permanent layout, using the plastic ballast as a underpinning for more realistic ballast (white-glued on) and other scenic materials.  When you get done, it hardly looks like FasTrack.  And the switches are very reliable.

   Bob A.

  

 

I agree.

 

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004

 

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