what about traditional lionel track.

I've no problem with Lionel tubular.  The track of the ancients.  Available, cheap, very forgiving and absolutely the most prototypical toy train track there is.

 

 

In production over a hundred years - somebody must like it!  

 

Still the most widely used 3-rail O gauge track in the hobby, so it sure has something going for it. 

What about their switches?

 

I bailed on all of the Lionel O27 & O42 switches.  They are too prone to derailments and dead zones or cross arching when the power pickup rolls over the switch.

We had Lionel "O" Gauge track on our layout from 1984 thru 2010. I loved it. Everything worked great until I added a couple of Lionel new 0-72 switches around 2009. At the time we were running a  45 car freight train. All of the cars on this train were made by Weaver. Once these new switches were installed this train keep derailing. My older Lionel 0-72 swiches from the eighties never gave us any trouble. Everything ran through them like a champ. If I was to build another layout, I would use tubular track.

I decided to go with Fastrack due to the switches being integrated so well into the look of the track. Love the appearance, hate the track noise.  My future layout will likely be traditional O and no switches.

 

It's all I use. On two separate layouts!

Lionel Tubular is my favorite looking track.   I use mostly FasTrack though, because I have a carpet layout.

 

"Indeed!"

Jerry

I have only tubular track, wether Lionel, K-Line, RMT track, or Gargraves, I prefer tubular track over Fastrac and Realtrax.

Advantages; 1}can be cut easily, 2{easy track configuiration, no need for fitter tracks, 3{availabe at most train shows and hobby shops, 4{affordable, don't have to pay over $5.00 a section like other track. Switches are very affordable, can't say that about Fastrac! 5{ don't have electrical issues like Fastrac or realtrax.

 

I bought some Fastrac to experiment with, a 3 foot by  9 foot loop of Fastrac. It tarnished very easily, needed two electrical hook-up points, could not do fancy layout with it without needing special pieces. Try to use half sections of Fastrac 036 with a small S curve or dogleg and see what I am saying, you will curse the design of Fastrac as it don't give or have any freeplay like tubular track.

 

I love tubular track, it has been around for almost a century, must be doing something right!

 

Lee Fritz

There is only one reason not to use the traditional lionel track...if you want your layout to mimic reality perfectly!

I like the design of the tubular track.  It's girder-like appearance with the sparsely-spaced ties would help give the steampunk-inspired layout I want to build an otherworldly look.  I currently have a very limited selection of O27 track (using 42" curves and turnouts) which I much prefer over the FasTrack that came with my starter set and expansion packs.  FasTrack is too loud, and seems to be too inflexible, both electrically and in terms of track arrangement.  I also have one 40" straight section of regular Lionel O gauge track that I used to display my Conrail GP38 and Polar Express baggage car before I got my starter set.  I also have a handful of K-Line track sections.

 

Tubular track would definitely be my first choice, but what is available is still not flexible enough for what I want to do.  Despite the appearance of the track, I still want to create realistic track arrangements.  My Great Western Hall Class 4-6-0 has dictated the necessity for curves to be greater than 36 inches.  I had originally thought that Lionel's 42" O27 turnouts would be exactly what I needed, but I have had problems with the rollers and backs of driving wheels touching the "other side" between the points and causing short circuits.  Also, the switch machines and extra-long straight leg would prevent me from making more compact yard ladders.  (I like the look of the switch machines; they're just in the way.)  I see that RCS is making tinplate turnouts that would be more appropriate, but I like the chunkier look of the Lionel's more traditional turnout designs.  So I'm probably going to have to use Atlas or Gargraves/RCS for the more complex areas of the layout and use tubular for other areas such as unballasted bridges or an elevated line where their appearance can be integrated into the design of the structure.

 

Aaron

Jimmy did not say anything about the quality of new Lionel tubular track, he said the new 072 switches were a problem. They are junk in my opinion. Some have managed to work them over and get them to work ok, but why have to do that? And at around $145.00 each? Many people rid of them.

Rob

IMHO.......You'll be sorry!!!

I've been using Lionel's tube track since 1947. My grandfather started in the teens with no problems. To this day I'm still using my grandfather's track and layout. I have a few boxes of brand new 42" Std Gauge my grandfather bought new. I have cases of new O-Gauge.

newbie20,

Find a track system that will work for you. Each of us have our favourites. 

I use tubular, and I love it. If you can, try to use old O-22 switches, and you will be golden (but they are only O-31, the only issue with them). Other switches are okay, but those are the best.

 

The only way I would leave this tubular track, would be if I hit the lottery. Then my layout would be Lionel T Rail!

IMHO, the nicest thing about using tradition "O" gauge tubular track is the price of the switches. In my area, a nice pair of used 022 switches still goes for something like $25.00 Something to consider when working with a budget.

Thank you oldrob.

 

Newbie20,

There is nothing wrong with the Lionel "O" Gauge track. The problem I had, was with three new 0-72 switches that I purchased around 2009. I had installed these new switches on my outside loop. I had been running a 45 car freight train (all Weaver cars)  on this loop. After I installed the three new switches my Weaver freight cars would occasionally derail. Something they never had done before. Like I said in my original post, if I ever build another "O" Gauge layout t will be with "O" Gauge track. However, I believe my train layout building days are done.

I use only tubular. I have no problems with it or 022 switches.

I originally posted this on your other thread asking about Realtrax and FasTrack so I'll post it here as well.

 

Regular 3-rail "tubular" track, which you are referring to, has been the de facto track and that most closely associated with O gauge, not to mention until the last few years, the standard track included in starter sets before getting displaced by FasTrack.

 

It's the cheapest of all the track systems already mentioned, study & rugged track, has what some may call the "classic" or "toy train look" that some prefer, holds up well to lots of use, and simple in design.  It also lends itself to easy custom track lengths with a saw.

 

It's also the least realistic looking of all 3-rail track, hollow and rounded-top rails instead of being T-shaped and solid like prototype track.  The average piece of track, both curved and straight, come with only 3 ties per section and are made of stamped steel.  Both outside rails are tied together (not insulated from each other) which means that if you want to use trackside-activated accessories like crossing signals or semaphores you will need to insulate one of the outside rails within the section(s) of track the accessory is to activate on.

 

Standard tubular also tends to be prone to having very tight tolerances with the connecting pins, meaning you may have to "force" two sections of track together harder than you would on other types of track.  Also over time, especially if you constantly assemble and disassemble the track, the holes in the rails tend to get wider over time, which can lead to loose track connections although crimping the holes with a pair of needlenose or regular pliers can fix that.

 

The only limiting factor is the availability of switch curvatures, as there typically is only O-27, O-31, and O-72 although K-Line has made O-42 and O-54 tubular switches in the past.  The other issue is that there have been many reports of poor quality of the modern releases of Lionel tubular switches over the past decade or so, so many tend to just either hunt down and use the K-Line or original 022 postwar-type switches.  Ross Custom switches has also within the last couple of years released a new line of tubular track-style switches in various configurations and there have been reports of people being satisfied with these switches as with the rest of their products.  Williams also has been offering O gauge tubular track within the past several years, although I haven't seen any indication that they make switches yet.

 

In the end, the choice you make is yours.  If you are designing a permanent layout and want track that is as realistic as possible and make your own roadbed within the confines of 3-rail then you'd want Atlas O, ScaleTrax, or even the postwar-style Super-O. 

 

If you want a traditional, postwar toy-type looking layout, permanent or otherwise, then classic tubular is the way to go. 

 

If you want a permanent or temporary layout and want something that is somewhat realistic looking that includes built-in simulated roadbed and with somewhat easier joining of track sections together then either FasTrack or RealTrax would be the best bet.

If only we could throw ourselves into a time machine & go 75 or 80 years into the future.  There we could see how the varied plastic-based track formats are holding up, especially those which rely on part of the plastic base to also serve as a sort of "locking mechanism."  I wouldn't bet the farm on them... nor the MTH track with the pesky/bendy copper contacts.  How well will these track formats hold up if stored in a hot attic for 20-30-40 years?    Tubular all the way!

 

I use K-Line Shadow Rail, which is basically tubular with more realistic ties. Was easy to custom cut when I needed as well.

I am having my O72 track(Curve and straight), switches and PW ZW put in the box with me when I go, if you know what I mean.

I use Gargraves track and switches as well as Lionel or K-Line tubular in 031 and 042 curves, some 054 curves in there too.

K-Line has some nice switches in 042 tubular track, manual and remote control.

Gargraves makes a wider variety of switches then Lionel or K-Line but some MTH engines don't like Gargraves switches.

Ross Custom switches are the top of the line and are more expensive and have better quality then other switches.

 

Lee Fritz

Lionel O gauge Tubular, 022, and 072 switches all the way!!!!!!!!

I have extensive use with Lionel tubular track and love it. It is very cost effective, reliable, and when utilizing Johnson rubber roadbed with it, it looks very good, at least in my opinion. In terms of tubular switches, I would recommend the Ross brand and would have used Ross Custom Switches if they were available before I started the new layout.

 

As Allan Miller has stated, a lot of train folks must like it as it still is the most popular track system.

The new stuff might look more "realistic" (if that can be applied to any 3-rail track), but Lionel pre/postwar tubular switches or turnouts are the least trouble prone of any made. They were designed to allow the sliding shoe for couplers and operating cars to ride through without actuating them. I can't say that for any others. I also like K-Line's 3ft straights & 042 curves and William's 031 track with the extra (steel) ties. Reminds me of the old 072 straight & curved sections. Best of all, IT'S CHEAP !

I use only tubular track. Much of my track is 60 years old and still works as good as the day it was made.  On the turnouts, I will echo that the prewar 072 and post war 022 are the best switches made.  All of it is cheap compared to the new systems.

When I first built my layout I went with Fastrack simply because I didn't want to ballast and have had minimal problems with it. While I'm running more tinplate theses day's I wouldn't hesitate to go with tubular.

As I look longer at the Gargraves track and switches, they more they grow on me.  phillyreading, you said some MTH engines don't like Gargraves turnouts; do you think the European locos (namely the 231E, S 3/6 and Ce 6/8 Crocodile), would have problems if I planned for eventual accommodation?

 

Also, the standard gauge track has me wondering about O scale broad gauge.  GWR Iron Dukes, anyone?

I use the fast track my self !  But enjoy the pictures of layouts using the tube style track !

 

When I finally get around to rebuilding/enlarging my layout I'm taking all of my Realtrax out and replacing it with good old fashioned tubular. No knock on the Realtrax, it's worked out great for me but my Magnatraction postwar doesn't work too well with it, combination of not magnetic and the wheel profile (rounded) doesn't mate very well with the flathead style of the Realtrax rails resulting in poor traction. Plus I really like the old school look of the tubular and the ease of making fitter sections with it and like Chris I really didn't want to have to ballast my track but I'm planning on taking it on this time. Might even build me a turntable and roundhouse!

 

Jerry

 

 

By the way, GarGraves, Ross, and the redesigned RealTrax are all really "tubular track" also since they have hollow rails.

Tubular is reliable, cheap and easily customized (and easy to "cheat"). It is not completely realistic looking, but does have the "traditional" look.

O-27 style can be found in 27, 34 (MARX), 42, 54 and 72 inch diameters (27, 34 and 42 being the most common)

O style can be found in 31, 40 (American Flyer), 42, 54, 63, 72, 81, 96 and 120 diameters (31, 42, 54 and 72 being the most common)

Flexible tubular is also available.

i run mostly prewar trains and i find tubular track works well with traditional tinplate wheels.  T-rail shape track might look more prototypical, but most tinplate trains do not have prototypical (RP-25) wheel tread profiles which you need to take advantage of that rail.

 

the choice to me would be dependent on what look i was after.  cast iron clockworks with 4 wheel cars are a good match for traditional tubular track.  alternately if i was after a hi-rail layout with a more prototypical look, i would choose Gargraves track with Ross/ Curtis switches.

 

cheers...gary

Not sure if the European MTH would have problems or not with Gargraves switches. The Reading T-1, a 4-8-4 steam engine, does have problems with gargraves switches, gets about one/fifth into it and derails the front wheelset. I have tried adding a small magnet for weight but it don't seem to help.

Maybe the Ross Custom switches will work better with MTH. With Ross track the pins are the same as Gargraves track.

 

Lee Fritz

Ok so by your post you recommend Atlas, Scaletrax or Gargraves w/ Ross switches ....But what about Weaver and Williams for realism?

So, you think the Lionel stands up to Ross switches?