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Even in this tight labor market, I found a driver for my new fork lift.   Also harvested some product from the backyard for the pulpwood car so I started building a load.   Have several cars in primer awaiting final coat and decals for reassignment.    But most importantly, I recently tested “undetected” for covid so life is real GOOD!

Cheers to all,

Dave

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Last edited by darlander
@mike g. posted:

Hi guys, well I was able to get put to the train room today and I worked on the taxi way and helipad, painting both black. Then while that was drying I worked on a special project for that area, but am going to wait till I get it all done to share with the rest of you. I then put a second coat of paint on my landing pad and taxiway.

I thought I would start on the Piper airplane, I dont think its going to be the right size for my run way even though it is 1/48 scale. Below are a couple photos. Also I put a photo in for Dallas Joseph so he could see the runway in it's lower state.



I know I have a mess under there, thats a someday project! LOL I hope your all having a great day and fun with your layouts!

   Mike

   The piper looks fine against the diesel.  Were you thinking a little smaller? Forced perspective would probably work fine there.

   Nice you made the runway fold out of the way. One thing I really like about my layout is a wide aisle. I lost a lot of real estate but it is enjoyable to walk around and work on things.

@darlander posted:

Even in this tight labor market, I found a driver for my new fork lift.   Also harvested some product from the backyard for the pulpwood car so I started to building a load.   Have several cars in primer awaiting final coat and decals for reassignment.    Recently tested “undetected” for covid so life is real GOOD!

Cheers to all,

Dave



     Darlander

     I really like the pulpwood car. A gondola is one car I don't have yet so I will probably be making one like yours as well.

     Nice heavy railroad load there.

I have needed a siding for the longest time on my 3 loop layout. I used to use the inner loop, but it's only O36 and most of my steam engines can't go in there except the Polar Express. So I'm adding 8" to the front and right side of the layout. I made the expansions today (on the floor in the photo) with wood that I've had stored away for quite some time. Admittedly, not the best wood, but it will suffice and once I'm done it won't be seen.  I also had everything else I needed to build them, and didn't have to go to Homey Depot. Started deconstructing on the right, I should have the expansions attached tomorrow. The expansions will not have any legs, I'm going to use 5/16 bolts, nuts, and washers to fasten them to the existing layout table, they won't be going anywhere. Follow up with photos tomorrow, I hope. Ignore that mess of wires on the floor on the right, I had to move a bunch of stuff. I'll straighten it out later.

I'm still working on the Xmas display on the far left rear that I posted the other day in this thread. So I have lots to do before Xmas.

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I have needed a siding for the longest time on my 3 loop layout. I used to use the inner loop, but it's only O36 and most of my steam engines can't go in there except the Polar Express. So I'm adding 8" to the front and right side of the layout. I made the expansions today (on the floor in the photo) with wood that I've had stored away for quite some time. Admittedly, not the best wood, but it will suffice and once I'm done it won't be seen.  I also had everything else I needed to build them, and didn't have to go to Homey Depot. Started deconstructing on the right, I should have the expansions attached tomorrow. The expansions will not have any legs, I'm going to use 5/16 bolts, nuts, and washers to fasten them to the existing layout table, they won't be going anywhere. Follow up with photos tomorrow, I hope. Ignore that mess of wires on the floor on the right, I had to move a bunch of stuff. I'll straighten it out later.

I'm still working on the Xmas display on the far left rear that I posted the other day in this thread. So I have lots to do before Xmas.



That will be a nice addition. As I widened my table I removed the inner loop to make more room for scenery.  I think I added 3 inches of width and lenghth or 6 and 6 total after building the table. The Western Pacific had some good looking rolling stock. I've avoided buying any as I would end up wanting it all.

Decided to remove second level of my 5x10 layout. I'm not really an operator as much as I am collector. I'm looking to start adding postwar accessories and this gives me more viewing space. I'm also putting together sets and now have nine done (not with boxes,track and transformers) just proper engines, tenders and cars. When finished I'll end up with around fourteen sets.

Hi Ralph (RADAR493)

Are the sets going to be displayed on shelves? I am still deciding what typd of display shelves to create since I have more rolling stock and locomotives than the layout can use at one time.

I am working on installing the homemade ties. I dyed them in batches and allowed them to dry overnight before glueing them down with yellow wood glue. I was a little suprised at the variance in height of the old track. Quite a few had much less clearance below the rails than specified which required "resawing" the ties to be a bit thinner. (And I made a bunch too tall as well!) A couple of progress pics attached.After DryingRight tableLeft Yard Ties

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WesternPacific2217 Looks like a good plan to me.  I built my Blackwater Canyon Line mostly out of wood I had used before and wood I removed from my Dad's shop when we were cleaning things out to sell the old homestead.  Once covered with scenery and facia, no one will know the difference!

Dave Ripp. You are definitely on a roll!

Victor Bertolina The new ties look great under your track!

I am still slowly wiring my DZ1000 switch machines, 13 in all.  I discovered I need to buy one more terminal block as none of what I had in the drawer will handle that number.  I am planning to venture over to Ohio for the Great Lakes TCA show to see the Mod Squad modular layout.  Maybe I will find a terminal block there.  If not, I'll order one or two for a spare.

@Dave Ripp. posted:

I started scenery on a small area. I still have to vacume patch and paint the lot after the initial mess dries. I'm not sure what will go here. Maybe just a parking lot I will see what fits when it's done.



Hi Dave, I see you use the Bob Ross method of diorama on your layout! ;-) Put up the canvas, reflect, begin! LoL I to use the Bob Ross method, most of the time.

Thanks for sharing all of your layout progress, it's great to watch!

@Dave Ripp. posted:

That will be a nice addition. As I widened my table I removed the inner loop to make more room for scenery.  I think I added 3 inches of width and lenghth or 6 and 6 total after building the table. The Western Pacific had some good looking rolling stock. I've avoided buying any as I would end up wanting it all.

Hi Dave,

I haven't decided what to do with the O36 inner loop, but I'll probably keep it this year, as I setup the Polar Express train station and other PE stuff next to the Ferris wheel on the inside of the inner loop. Maybe after the holidays I'll make a decision then to remove it. That would open up more space for structures and such.

If you or anybody else is interested in the WP rolling stock here's some info. The first 3 boxcars behind the loco and the caboose came in a set and are scale. The set was made by K-line for The Western Depot in Yuba City, CA, and the set includes: WP PFE, Tidewater Southern, Sacramento Northern, WP caboose. The caboose is complete with figures, lighting and smoke unit. They still have some sets, but not a many, and they come in 2 and 3 rail.

https://www.westerndepot.com/index.php

The two wooden live stock cars in WP silver and orange are semi scale by O-Line Reproductions and I purchased these on eBay. Unfortunately, both boxcars have the same numbers, and they came as a set of 2, go figure! I guess that's what you get for 40 bucks for the pair.

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Hi Dave Ripp,

I see you are using MTH RealTrax.  I too have some RealTrax track I’m planning on using on my layout. I have a couple of questions. How have you fastened the track to your benchwork?  And did you do anything to try and reduce the noise while running trains?

Sorry if you’ve already answered these questions in this or another thread.

John

@CA John posted:

Hi Dave Ripp,

I see you are using MTH RealTrax.  I too have some RealTrax track I’m planning on using on my layout. I have a couple of questions. How have you fastened the track to your benchwork?  And did you do anything to try and reduce the noise while running trains?

Sorry if you’ve already answered these questions in this or another thread.

John

Hi John, I actually soldered wires underneath from track to track and put clear { not that color matters } silicone sealer on the bottom. It holds the wires in place and weights down the track. I have it on ceiling tiles not screwed down and have no noise issues.



I am working on installing the homemade ties. I dyed them in batches and allowed them to dry overnight before glueing them down with yellow wood glue. I was a little suprised at the variance in height of the old track. Quite a few had much less clearance below the rails than specified which required "resawing" the ties to be a bit thinner. (And I made a bunch too tall as well!) A couple of progress pics attached.

Victor,

I made over 2,900 ties from balsa (1/8 thick, 1/2" wide) painted brown for my O27 gauge track.

Screwing every other or so track down holds most of them in place.  A single drop of white glue on those that are still loose works fine. This way it is easier to move track if needed

@Lionelski posted:

Victor,

I made over 2,900 ties from balsa (1/8 thick, 1/2" wide) painted brown for my O27 gauge track.

Screwing every other or so track down holds most of them in place.  A single drop of white glue on those that are still loose works fine. This way it is easier to move track if needed

That's alot of work for both of you. When I was a kid my dad cut and painted ties for me.

Thanks guys

I finished installing Coal Yard Entrance Ties CompleteCoal Yard Ties CompleteInterconnect Ties Complete 1Interconnect Ties Completeall the ties on the "at grade" portions of the layout and dyed some more ties for the bridge sections. There will be deck girder and thru girder bridges and a curved timber trestle. The trestle is the next project. I couple of pics are attached. I had to make a final grade adjustment near the arch bridge. The track had a "bump". It operates much smoother now.

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Thanks guys

I finished installing all the ties on the "at grade" portions of the layout and dyed some more ties for the bridge sections. There will be deck girder and thru girder bridges and a curved timber trestle. The trestle is the next project. I couple of pics are attached. I had to make a final grade adjustment near the arch bridge. The track had a "bump". It operates much smoother now.

Very nice Victor, those look just like the ones my dad made me 50+ years ago.

Thanks guys

I finished installing Coal Yard Entrance Ties CompleteCoal Yard Ties CompleteInterconnect Ties Complete 1Interconnect Ties Completeall the ties on the "at grade" portions of the layout and dyed some more ties for the bridge sections. There will be deck girder and thru girder bridges and a curved timber trestle. The trestle is the next project. I couple of pics are attached. I had to make a final grade adjustment near the arch bridge. The track had a "bump". It operates much smoother now.

Victor, what a difference the ties (or as the British and Australians say "sleepers") make. It looks awesome!

Layout expansion update:  I completed attaching the expansions onto the layout table today. That was actually the easy part. Since the additional siding was not in the original plan, it was more difficult to install the Fastrack switches and track to get it to fit. Even with 1 and 3/8's track it took some finessing. I wanted to put Homosote on the new expansions, but it is simply not available in my area. There aren't even any other brands of the same material. Must be a California Prop 65 thing, hard to say. So it will be a little noisy sitting directly on the wood. I may find some thin cork or rubber to put under the track to absorb some of the thundering while on the plywood.

Dave Ripp mentioned in a recent post in this thread that he uses silicone under his MTH track to hold down wires. Maybe I can use silicone under the Lionel Fastrack, just a bead on the inside of the bottom of the track. I'm going to experiment with that. I also may check into ceiling tiles ( I didn't think of that), but that would mean removing and installing the expansions again so they are even with the top of the table.

I fully tested the new track and switches with my most finicky GS locomotives when it comes to curves, and it all works beautifully.

A new skirt around the table is in order as the old one is showing its age. There's still a lot to do, but that's all part of the fun.

Scott

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Layout expansion update:  I completed attaching the expansions onto the layout table today. That was actually the easy part. Since the additional siding was not in the original plan, it was more difficult to install the Fastrack switches and track to get it to fit. Even with 1 and 3/8's track it took some finessing. I wanted to put Homosote on the new expansions, but it is simply not available in my area. There aren't even any other brands of the same material. Must be a California Prop 65 thing, hard to say. So it will be a little noisy sitting directly on the wood. I may find some thin cork or rubber to put under the track to absorb some of the thundering while on the plywood.

Dave Ripp mentioned in a recent post in this thread that he uses silicone under his MTH track to hold down wires. Maybe I can use silicone under the Lionel Fastrack, just a bead on the inside of the bottom of the track. I'm going to experiment with that. I also may check into ceiling tiles ( I didn't think of that), but that would mean removing and installing the expansions again so they are even with the top of the table.

I fully tested the new track and switches with my most finicky GS locomotives when it comes to curves, and it all works beautifully.

A new skirt around the table is in order as the old one is showing its age. There's still a lot to do, but that's all part of the fun.



Scott

Scott, What a huge difference The extentions lookgreat and it picks up the angle of the window.

Last edited by Dave Ripp.
@third rail posted:

I didn't get anything done on my layout but over the past couple of weeks and the next few weeks I will be remodeling the lake feature on the Chicagoland lionel railroad club's layout.  Previously it was just blue painted plywood and some HO  brick paper.  I tore the paper out and put in new 1/8 in hardboard walls. Then I  applied a layer of A flute corrugated cardboard to stimulate a metal seawall.

20211020_104137

20211020_120134

The lower inch was painted gloss black to mimic the wave action against the wall.

20211020_120149

After the black dried,  the top portion was painted a brownish rust color.

20211023_122131

Oversized ballast was glued to the seawall and around the pier for the girder bridge to stimulate riprap.

The next work involved painting and attaching 1/8 inch hardboard for a capstone on the edge of the lake.  I used Rustoleum's stone effects paint to stimulate a granite type of stone.

20211023_122131

Next week when all this work is dry, I will attack making the water and waves. Then they will be varnished with a water based poly (3 coats). I have a special idea for something in the lake, more to come.

Continuing on with the lake remodel, I used a technique to make waves by laying down 3 layers of toilet paper and diluted white glue. Made up a mixture of 50/50-60/40 Elmer's glue and water, then painted the surface and layered the toilet paper lasagna style. While everything was still wet, I teased the paper into waves with a paint brush. As the paper soaks up the glue  the embossing disappears.  The main thing is to work extra at the edges of the paper to make sure that they disappear. After a few days drying,  I then painted the surface with a brown latex flat paint,  blending in some flat black to mimic deeper water. I found a Corgi Models yellow submarine,  removed the bottom and  cut and trimmed it for placement.

20211030_113802

Next week when all is dry,  I will use gloss water based finish to bring out the wet look.

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Layout expansion update:  I completed attaching the expansions onto the layout table today. That was actually the easy part. Since the additional siding was not in the original plan, it was more difficult to install the Fastrack switches and track to get it to fit. Even with 1 and 3/8's track it took some finessing. I wanted to put Homosote on the new expansions, but it is simply not available in my area. There aren't even any other brands of the same material. Must be a California Prop 65 thing, hard to say. So it will be a little noisy sitting directly on the wood. I may find some thin cork or rubber to put under the track to absorb some of the thundering while on the plywood.

Dave Ripp mentioned in a recent post in this thread that he uses silicone under his MTH track to hold down wires. Maybe I can use silicone under the Lionel Fastrack, just a bead on the inside of the bottom of the track. I'm going to experiment with that. I also may check into ceiling tiles ( I didn't think of that), but that would mean removing and installing the expansions again so they are even with the top of the table.

I fully tested the new track and switches with my most finicky GS locomotives when it comes to curves, and it all works beautifully.

A new skirt around the table is in order as the old one is showing its age. There's still a lot to do, but that's all part of the fun.

Scott

The extension looks great Scott. I found some thin 1/8" cork rolls at Michaels. I use it under tubular on plywood and it does help. You could also stuff some insulation under the FT to help muffle the drum effect of the roadbed. Look for sill plate gasket at HD or Lowes. Carpenters use it to fill the gaps between the foundation and the wood sills.

Bob

Last edited by RSJB18

I've been crazy busy lately so not much to report. We had a rain-out yesterday so I was able to spend a little time on the layout.

First a failure, followed by a rescue plan.
I bought a set of laser cut wood benches. Seemed simple enough, paint, cut, glue, repeat. That was until I tried to get the bench legs off of the balsa sheet. They were a royal PITA! The legs kept breaking no matter what method I tried to free them from the balsa. I did manage to rescue two successfully so I used one as a template and made my own. To be continued.....

2021-10-31 10.13.272021-10-31 10.13.43

Nice looking bench when done tho.

2021-10-31 10.14.07

I also started on installing a mini-commander in one of my BEEPS. Simple enough, but when I tested it, nothing. I put it aside and will continue later. It occurred to me last night that the board may have been programmed by the previous owner, so I will try a reset later with my Cab 1L and see what happens. (yes, the R2LC board was installed when tested).

2021-10-31 10.14.30

Everyone has been doing great work. Lot's of fun projects under way. Keep it up!

Happy Halloween! 

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Canoeists flee the giant hot glue installation of 1 inch foam blocks, only to perish off the end of the benchwork.  Happy Halloween to all OGR Forum members & lurkers.  Been awhile since my last layout progress update - been 50%+ away on travel for work.  Next will remove the town level (it sits on 7 legs not attached to the table) to carve and shape the foam embankment in my garage.

12x12 L - town embankment hot glue foam blocks

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@RSJB18 posted:

The extension looks great Scott. I found some thin 1/8" cork rolls at Michaels. I use it under tubular on plywood and it does help. You could also stuff some insulation under the FT to help muffle the drum effect of the roadbed. Look for sill plate gasket at HD or Lowes. Carpenters use it to fill the gasp between the foundation and the wood sills.

Bob

Thank you Bob for your suggestions and info, it is greatly appreciated and I will be looking into those today. So a trip to Michaels and HD is in order. I ran my two GS's for about an hour last night and what a pleasure to have more track!!! Sorry to see you're having laser cut bench frustrations and ERR upgrade that's messing with you. Good luck!

@RSJB18 posted:

I've been crazy busy lately so not much to report. We had a rain-out yesterday so I was able to spend a little time on the layout.

First a failure, followed by a rescue plan.
I bought a set of laser cut wood benches. Seemed simple enough, paint, cut, glue, repeat. That was until I tried to get the bench legs off of the balsa sheet. They were a royal PITA! The legs kept breaking no matter what method I tried to free them from the balsa. I did manage to rescue two successfully so I used one as a template and made my own. To be continued.....

Happy Halloween! 

Bob;

If you still need a few benches, shoot me your address (I probably have it somewhere, but...). I have a few leftovers I got from Doug Pitney when I purchased some shadow boxes. They are not balsa, but some sort of composite which can be cut out with the aid of a pointed exacto blade. There are 3 types. I went with a bit of basic stain as opposed to the ubiquitous NYC Parks Department green!!!

7097706D-6232-4310-A251-5889801BF087

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@Apples55 posted:

Bob;

If you still need a few benches, shoot me your address (I probably have it somewhere, but...). I have a few leftovers I got from Doug Pitney when I purchased some shadow boxes. They are not balsa, but some sort of composite which can be cut out with the aid of a pointed exacto blade. There are 3 types. I went with a bit of basic stain as opposed to the ubiquitous NYC Parks Department green!!!

Thanks Paul. I think I'm good for now but if things change I will be in touch.

Bob

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