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Very nice looking rock. I ran all 5 lops last night-3 freighters and 2 passenger trains. Wild !!  Too much to keep track of. Cut it back to 3 loops and that was better. Today I took a Marx Alco S3 diesel switcher I have and used an adapter coupler to hook in on to a heavy freight train which it pulled. Nice engine, like new, in UP colors, which I got for almost nothing. Like the design and size, it could use some detailing but I don't sweat that. Have another almost as nice which I might use the power unit out of it for an RDC or something. Waiting for the mil carrier today to deliver a heavy weight Irvington  car to go with the one I already have. Will look good behind my GG1.

I just got a second On30 tank car, which will soon look like the other in this photo, and will be a representation of gas tank car # 600. The RR I model only had two of these on the RR by the WW2 era.

Yeah, they're not perfect models of the original cars, but Bachmann's tank cars aren't that far off for the real ones, as seen above. Someday, I'll be replacing a lot of these cars I currently consider, "representational" of the real ones...

Originally Posted by jim pastorius:

Very nice looking rock. I ran all 5 lops last night-3 freighters and 2 passenger trains. Wild !!  Too much to keep track of. Cut it back to 3 loops and that was better. Today I took a Marx Alco S3 diesel switcher I have and used an adapter coupler to hook in on to a heavy freight train which it pulled. Nice engine, like new, in UP colors, which I got for almost nothing. Like the design and size, it could use some detailing but I don't sweat that. Have another almost as nice which I might use the power unit out of it for an RDC or something. Waiting for the mil carrier today to deliver a heavy weight Irvington  car to go with the one I already have. Will look good behind my GG1.

What type of adaptor coupler did you use?

Who has them?

I have the Lionel part numbers supplied to me (thanks guys)somewhere in my posts, but to order just those? Too much $.

 I really wish I knew where mine went too!

 

Originally Posted by redball342:

Since I don't have a lay-out (I dream of my FUTURE lay-out) I set up a carpet central track to try out my new Williams N&W "J" class locomotive (my favorite steamer) ran great. Also Checked my Lehigh Valley GP9 Williams dummy that I perchased earlyer this year to double head with my Lionel GP9 (from their Black Diamond set) that I have pulling a unit train of 6 (variations) of Lehigh Valley traditional Hoppers and Caboose, pulled great.

I've got a ceiling shelf, and two tables.  But very single time read "carpet layout" I get a little jealous .  

 

Does anyone else have to have multi-quotes come off just one page?.

Mr.Vinny--  NEVER use alcohol on your track-- ever !!!  This is per the folks at LIONEL Corp themselves..   Lionel says that alcohol-based cleaners tend to degrade the electrical connectivity of your trains, such as between the rails and the wheels of your trains.
(Per Page 46 of the 2014-2015 issue of Lionel's "Track and Power"  ...)
 
KRK
 
Originally Posted by mrvinny:

glued down my ballast in accordance with advice I got on this board.  wiped down the track with denatured alcohol.

 

I played a little more let the engine run around while I was doing some scenery. received the f3 b unit today and ordered the new coupler for it. spent about an hr yesterday and an hr today messing around with the layout. . here's the results as a side note there's 3 different types of grass from scenic express. and then for some added realism I threw in some sifted medium dirt from Georgia and some course dirt from Georgia right out of my back yard.  from scenic Express it is A blended bundle of alpine meadow, farm pasture, and fine earth  

 

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Last edited by Jhainer

Thank you for the compliments on my rocks. I started with two inch thick pink board and with a long bladed hot cutting knife I cut the foam to shape. Once I built the layers to where I wanted them I applied plaster cloth. When dry I covered it with Gypsolite. Once that dried I used three pigment colors (diluted). Yellow ochre, raw umber and burnt umber randomly dabbing with a foam applicator across the plaster. After doing that I washed it with a very dilute black. I used indigo ink mixed with water. I just followed the video by woodland scenic using the leopard spotting technique and these are the results I got.................Paul

Went back to the old time hardware store and said the screws I lost might be metric, and they found some that fit this time, so I have replaced those that ran away and hid from my Lionel engine kitbash.  I glued on the top-hat shaped replacement sand and steam domes, and cut out cab windows to replace with new frames fashioned from styrene. This actually very little done.  One other appliance to shape and mount on the boiler, with the whistle, and need to fill around the bases of the domes.  Am mulling

over trying to solder new front steps for the smokebox out of brass sheet.  Every detail added seems to encourage closer scrutiny and more details, for this "approximation".

Got some electronic horn PCBs from Train Tender, and, since the Lionel factory preset tends towards "Annoyed Constipated Ferret", I had to do a bit of adjusting on the trim to get it closer to "Sounds Sort Of Like A Horn If You Squint".

 

Helpful hint:  Don't let the 18V AC lines get too close to the trim potentiometers.  Magic Smoke gets released.

 

Mitch

Got one of the Lionel soundboards installed on the Williams GG1 chassis:

 

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One nice thing about a single motor:  Plenty of space to stick stuff.    Mounting for the sound board is layers of mounting tape and stripwood.  The speaker connectors are fabricated from nickle silver HO rail joiners.  SCROUNGE!!! 

 

I've also upgraded my 394 rotary beacon from the old, rather fragile lightbulb head to a nice robust 494 mechanism (again courtesy of the Train Tender):

 

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I've decided to eliminate the center post in favor of a more prototypical running of the wires down near the ladder, where a theoretical workman could get at 'em for repairs.  The final version will have the wires secured to the bottom clip. 

 

Mitch

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Never had a problem using 99%NF alcohol to clean track.  At least none I can see in 20+ years.
 
Originally Posted by keyrouteken:
Mr.Vinny--  NEVER use alcohol on your track-- ever !!!  This is per the folks at LIONEL Corp themselves..   Lionel says that alcohol-based cleaners tend to degrade the electrical connectivity of your trains, such as between the rails and the wheels of your trains.
(Per Page 46 of the 2014-2015 issue of Lionel's "Track and Power"  ...)
 
KRK
 
Originally Posted by mrvinny:

glued down my ballast in accordance with advice I got on this board.  wiped down the track with denatured alcohol.

 

 

I reworked 2 lightweight straight modules that I use for 1 day outings.

 

They use Lionel tubular O Gauge track

 

They are very simple straights 2 main lines at 4.5 centers, 80 inches long. Made up of four 40 inch straights placed on a piece of luan 80x8 inches.  The Luan is painted green

 

Previously I had tried to attach the track with small screws but the luan does not hold that so well.  So this time used some black cable ties and small holes to tie the track down.  So far seem much better.

 

I have 3 of the 4 straights converted.  One more to go.  

 

Then I am going to tackle the curves. 

 

Originally I made them 180 degree semi-circles with an inner O72 and outer O81.  I now plan to cut those in half to 90 degree turns.  At the same time I am going to cut out the O54 inner semicircles and save them to make new O54/O42 half turns for smaller carpet layouts

Last edited by BillP

  I sacrificed the top two shelves below the layout to mount four 1033's on their sides, against the shelves back wall, with the controls facing to me. I may finish my wires finally tonight.

 

I'm not familiar with the term NF alcohol.

 Denatured has ingredients added to detour people from consuming it, that just may have an adverse effect on some metals.

 But alcohol as a cleaner is used regularly in the electronics fields and I've never heard of its causing issues on sensitive connections, and need to read the exact reasons stated for discouraging its use.

 The only thing I can think of, is a tiny bit of oil is very good for the metals surface condition long term.

 One thing it would do is leave the track bone dry. Its a great cleaner and degreaser.

 

Just received (2) BIG boxes from my mail lady..

I just love Box Days..

One is filled with Scenic Express Trees. Most are for the Hobo Village.

The other is a Soft Light Box Kit to take better pictures.

Got 2 of them for $74.00 on the bay with bulbs carry cases and light stands. Whatta a deal..

Once I have everything set up pictures will follow.

Day out today. "fun day" My wife's birthday..

Oh yes..we will stop at my local hobby shop on the planned route.

Either way we win..

Brian

As feared, close scrutiny equaled another detail.  The Great Western #60, an Alco,

has a smooth cab roof with one center ventilator, while the Lionel starter set 0-8-0

is probably modeled after a Baldwin, and has sliding ventilators for both crew, and many rivets.    Some other details on the Lionel "Baldwin?" are very similar to this Alco.  I have glue drying on a new styrene roof skin for the casting.  Another compicuous detail are those front steps.  Styrene would be much easier, but do not think life span in handling, much less operation, would be long.  Brass and solder are intimidating, but maybe the only option.  Time to quit procrastinating and do something.

Originally Posted by Passenger Train Collector:

Thanks for your post. Very nice work.

 

JH, you are making me anxious for the Yellow Warbonnets.

 

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I also have the Williams F3's A-B-B-A yellow bonnets upgraded with ERR board. they were new when I got them and haven't seen much time for some reason there not the best runners I have been kicking around the idea of sending tehm to legacy station for a tune up see why they are finicky.

 

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Originally Posted by TrainsRMe:

I just received an order from Scenic Express of "Jug Band" figures.  They have now been incorporated with others into a mountain scene. 

 

 

 

 

A fabulous scene, nicely designed and built building as well as great photography. One suggestion to take this scene to the next level is to spray your Woodland Scenics people figures with Testors Dull Coat so the won't shine under photographic light. Again, a nice scene.

On the outdoor O 3-rail Bark and Spiders layout, I placed 3,300 pounds of retaining wall blocks in the last week to complete the track laying upper portion and grade between levels, I installed the second Atlas Truss bridge today and began some wiring.

 

This next portion of the layout, final wiring, alignment, rail cleaning will probably take the next month...but you know?  It is kinda like eating an elephant.  How do you do that?  One bite at a time.

Suzie and I finished moving boxes of trains from our Dining Room into the Living Room layout area and neatly stacked them here and there under the layout support tables.

The main level of the layout will consist of a double-track mainline.  Code 072 track on the outside--  Code 054 track on the inside loop...  Already have sixteen 072 curves in-stock.  Received TEN Code 054 sections on Friday in the mail.  Six more should arrive on Wednesday.  Code 031 and Code 042 will be used for most everything else.

Depending on the radii required !We're talking about PW tubular track here-- 90% new condition...  Anticipate my long delayed track laying to start Wednesday or Thursday !

 

Cheers.

 

KRK

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