What did you do on your layout today?

@Bill Park great scenery work and creative track plan!

Following on the passenger car sets discussions - "do they count as 1 or 5" - regardless, they do take a lot of room on shelves. As I intended to create an engine area in a corner of my layout, I decided I could add pull out shelves to hold "excess" passenger coaches. Each shelve holds 12 cars so this takes care of 36 cars leaving limited shelf space for displaying my intermodals and coal hoppers.

Still have to figure out the engine area track plan and associated details. I realized I only have 3 coal steamers, the rest are oil. Kind of minimizes the need for the coaling station. Have a water tower and fuel/water columns, although the latter make no sense with steam. A broad year range for the transition period is the only answer - roughly 1945 thru 2000. This is also calling out for an engine house - the base is 20 x 42 - any suggestions???

The black buttons on the table edge are touch toggles which provide switching to my new water front area.  A ToDo is drafting a layout plan so the toggles can be mounted behind the plan. As is I cannot remember which toggle controls which switch, I need to see the plan to know which turnout I am changing.

Jeff, the roll out shelves look great for storing cars.  I can't remember which switch is which either, and will have to come up with a couple partial track plan panels also.

@pennsyfan posted:

There’s some great work going on there Bill.

Agree totally…..magnificent!

Peter

A week of urban renewal……..foam core board put down in the downtown area at street level. Sidewalks/curbs will come later. I have 4 Buildings Unlimited kits and 2 River Leaf Models kits to do this Spring/Summer/Fall. I still may need a few more buildings and am looking at some Woodland Scenics buildings to add.

Have a great and safe weekend, folks!

Peter

Peter, urban renewal is right!  You are building a city there!!

@Putnam Division posted:

A week of urban renewal……..foam core board put down in the downtown area at street level. Sidewalks/curbs will come later. I have 4 Buildings Unlimited kits and 2 River Leaf Models kits to do this Spring/Summer/Fall. I still may need a few more buildings and am looking at some Woodland Scenics buildings to add.

Have a great and safe weekend, folks!

Peter

Looks like you’re making some nice progress, Peter. And I’m glad to see your medical text books are also getting involved with the hobby in their retirement

@Apples55 posted:

Looks like you’re making some nice progress, Peter. And I’m glad to see your medical text books are also getting involved with the hobby in their retirement

Paul, you always make the best observations!  😄

@Apples55 posted:

Looks like you’re making some nice progress, Peter. And I’m glad to see your medical text books are also getting involved with the hobby in their retirement

Peter

I added a White Castle to my neighborhood Chicago layout. The first one built in Chicago was in 1929. Some are still standing today.

The real ones had a lot more lights than I added, but for a model it was unrealistic to do so.

@ChiTown Steve posted:

I added a White Castle to my neighborhood Chicago layout. The first one was built in 1929. Some are still standing today.

"Harold and Kumar could not be reached for comment."  - The New York Office

@M. Mitchell Marmel posted:

"Harold and Kumar could not be reached for comment."  - The New York Office

Ha Ha. I'll have to check this one out.

Organized my train boxes.  Put some of the Boy's Train and Girl's Train boxes in the same place.

The White Castle on my layout.  It's a shallow building, 2 1/2" wide by 2 deep.  Cardstock with balsa framing.

Today I had a new friend over to the house and he brought his new to him C&O  T1 4-8-4 and It’s a beautiful Lionel Legacy steamer…So, we ran his train for a few minutes. Happy Railroading Everyone

I have been working on the Maybrook portion of my layout (the last area to need landscaping). I finally received my ballast order from Brennan's and while most of my layout is Brennan's grey ballast, I did experiment by adding some Woodland Scenics brown for a little different look. I also decided to experiment using sculp-ta -mold for the grade crossing here. Once the area drys, I can paint the road way and add the road planks between the tracks. Around the road I used tube sand (Sand that comes in a long sack sold at Lowe's and Home Depot for weight in the back of a vehicle). Why this works well, it is mostly  very fine but there are enough larger stones still less than a 1/4" to make the ground area look raw and undeveloped. I also used tile grout in several shades of brown. I put those items on over a heavy coat of white glue and then a mist of WS Scenic Cement. Operating gates will go on each side of the tracks and should add some more interest to the scene.

With the help of my grandson, we completed the illumination effort to light the Plasticville town. It was a tedious process while attempting it on my own. He climbed on top of the layout and I was situated underneath as we worked our way along the remaining structures. The lighting was done with Dwarvin fiber optics.

Jay

@Tranquil Hollow RR posted:

With the help of my grandson, we completed the illumination effort to light the Plasticville town. It was a tedious process while attempting it on my own. He climbed on top of the layout and I was situated underneath as we worked our way along the remaining structures. The lighting was done with Dwarvin fiber optics.

Jay

WOW! That's a lot of Plasticville.......Fiber optics was the right solution for that town.

Looks great.

Bob

Thanks Bob and I didn’t fully appreciate how many structures I had until I started the lighting process.

Not familiar with the Dwarvin fiber optics system , but it sure looks like it gives the town life Jay !    Looks good.

How many bulbs would it take to light up the buildings if you wouldn't have used THE system ? 🤔

@Bill Park posted:

I have been working on the Maybrook portion of my layout (the last area to need landscaping). I finally received my ballast order from Brennan's and while most of my layout is Brennan's grey ballast, I did experiment by adding some Woodland Scenics brown for a little different look. I also decided to experiment using sculp-ta -mold for the grade crossing here. Once the area drys, I can paint the road way and add the road planks between the tracks. Around the road I used tube sand (Sand that comes in a long sack sold at Lowe's and Home Depot for weight in the back of a vehicle). Why this works well, it is mostly  very fine but there are enough larger stones still less than a 1/4" to make the ground area look raw and undeveloped. I also used tile grout in several shades of brown. I put those items on over a heavy coat of white glue and then a mist of WS Scenic Cement. Operating gates will go on each side of the tracks and should add some more interest to the scene.

Bill,

Things are looking good. Who makes the crossing signals that you will be using at the grade crossing?

Dave

Hi Dave, I had purchased two MTH gates a few years ago and they sat in the packaging until recently. When I tested them before installation, neither worked. Bob Shipley, a Forum member had two used MTH gates and they tested good so I elected to try to them  So the  response is MTH. I will post a video of them in use as soon as I get them installed.  Bill

@Tranquil Hollow RR posted:

With the help of my grandson, we completed the illumination effort to light the Plasticville town. It was a tedious process while attempting it on my own. He climbed on top of the layout and I was situated underneath as we worked our way along the remaining structures. The lighting was done with Dwarvin fiber optics.

Jay

Looks good! Does he hire out?

Some months ago I began to have some issues with a gargraves switch shorting out as the engines crossed it. I had some replacement switches and asked a question about changing track and a switch covered  with glued down ballast. A forum member made me aware of a connector piece Gargraves has made for just situations like this. (See picture one)  The benefit here is to be able to cut the bad piece out , in this case a switch, and be able to set the replacement section right down in the opening without pulling up a few sections of track in each direction caused by the connecting pins. I had to remove the ballast and then cut the switch out maybe  a half inch back from the joint. Once that is done, the switch can be pulled out. Most likely it won't survive the removal. I prepped the ends of the new switch going into the two meeting tracks. Regular pins are again used to connect those tracks on that end. Next I slid each connector into a rail on the opposite track. The shim like connectors slide right into the Gargraves track and they are pushed in as far as need be to make the switch ends mate properly.( See picture three) I did check how the connectors would fit into a new Ross switch and they required a tiny bit of rearranging the ties. I pushed the switch into the two tracks coming together on one end ( See picture 4)  and then just lowered the other end of the switch onto the connectors on the other end. It snapped together perfectly. ( See picture five).  My compliments to Gargraves for coming up with this easy fix for a major problem. I hope this will help any member who has an similar problem. Bill Park

@Bill Park posted:

Hi Dave, I had purchased two MTH gates a few years ago and they sat in the packaging until recently. When I tested them before installation, neither worked. Bob Shipley, a Forum member had two used MTH gates and they tested good so I elected to try to them  So the  response is MTH. I will post a video of them in use as soon as I get them installed.  Bill

OK. Keep us posted. I have used the MTH crossing gates for about 10  years. I have 2 pair for two grade crossings on the layout. So far I have only had to change out one gear, with the help of some donors I purchased online.

Dave

@Dallas Joseph posted:

Not familiar with the Dwarvin fiber optics system , but it sure looks like it gives the town life Jay !    Looks good.

How many bulbs would it take to light up the buildings if you wouldn't have used THE system ? 🤔

Bob commented, “that’s a lot of Plasticville “. Well I did a recount and there are 32 structures 😮. The photos show the light source and how, with a drilled hole, they enter the structure. Cocktail straws were used for rigidity. I have two of the light sources.

Swapped out the lights in my K-line switches to LEDs. Big improvement.

First 2 pix are the leds.

And I put a first coat on the Doodlebug interior.

Bob

@Tranquil Hollow RR posted:

Bob commented, “that’s a lot of Plasticville “. Well I did a recount and there are 32 structures 😮. The photos show the light source and how, with a drilled hole, they enter the structure. Cocktail straws were used for rigidity. I have two of the light sources.

This is really nice.

It even looks like it gives you some light under the layout for maintenance.

What is the wattage /voltage needed to run the Dwarvin ?

You just plug it in to any outlet.

Managed to get 4 Ameritowne Fronts weathered and all the trim painted up.   Layout work and progress got interrupted for other urgent issues.   

Received a pair of new to me 072 switches before the Easter Holiday, so the overall urban area plan is getting closer to what I had in mind.

@chris a posted:

Managed to get 4 Ameritowne Fronts weathered and all the trim painted up.   Layout work and progress got interrupted for other urgent issues.   

Received a pair of new to me 072 switches before the Easter Holiday, so the overall urban area plan is getting closer to what I had in mind.

The fronts looks good Chris. Looks like you have room for full buildings, why just fronts?

Bob

@RSJB18 posted:

The fronts looks good Chris. Looks like you have room for full buildings, why just fronts?

Bob

Bob, my current thought process is that I will end up grouping a number of these fronts together and then just adding side and back walls to the group.  I can save a bunch of side walls by not using 2 of them them with each individual front wall.  If I need to "divide" them I'll just add some 1/8 inch hardboard, or something cheap and readily available to create a dividing wall.  It's also not clear at this point, that based on the sidings running through the area that all building foot prints will be conventional squares or rectangles.   I reasonably sure that the back walls may follow the path of the "street" which could very well be following the curve of the siding track as it winds through the district.

As I have been driving around looking at these types of buildings near where I live, it seems that most of them have different brick on the side and rear walls.   From a little reading and research, it appears that it was pretty standard practice to use a less expensive brick on the side and rear walls and it was usually just a "standard cost effective monotone brick red" variety.   

So, once I figure out the overall urban building layout, my plan is to figure out a much quicker way to just come up with a simpler less detailed weathering process to color and weather the side and rear walls and finalize this whole area.   

I am fairly close to finding a quicker weathering method with probably only two colors to give me a back and sidewall that doesn't look like plain old red plastic with mortar, but won't take the painting and weathering time that these front walls are demanding. 

@chris a posted:

Bob, my current thought process is that I will end up grouping a number of these fronts together and then just adding side and back walls to the group.

I am fairly close to finding a quicker weathering method with probably only two colors to give me a back and sidewall that doesn't look like plain old red plastic with mortar, but won't take the painting and weathering time that these front walls are demanding.

Makes sense.  Why spend extra time and money on less visible parts of the scene.

I'm sure it will look great when you are done.

thanks

Just finished making a couple hills on a modular section.  Easy to build.  I started with styrofoam glued on to the flat surface.  Then using an extendable razor knife, I trimmed the edges so I’d end up with a rolling hill contour.  I painted the surface to make it easier to see any uneven areas.  Then using regular beach sand it poured it over the irregular surfaces, sprayed the whole area with water, then applied a soaking of 70 percent water and 30 percent white glue.  Next came a sprinkling of Woodlands Blended Turf over everything.  Because water runs downhill, I very lightly added some Yellow Grass to the high spots, and sprinkled Burnt Grass and some medium green along the base and low carved areas.  I finished it off with some Clump Foliage and some small sifted road gravel here and there .   The whole project took about 4hours to complete both hills. ( and 10 minutes to vacuum any loose materials ).  A fun project and when dry overnight I can touch up or carry on.  

@chris a posted:

Bob, my current thought process is that I will end up grouping a number of these fronts together and then just adding side and back walls to the group.  I can save a bunch of side walls by not using 2 of them them with each individual front wall.  If I need to "divide" them I'll just add some 1/8 inch hardboard, or something cheap and readily available to create a dividing wall.  It's also not clear at this point, that based on the sidings running through the area that all building foot prints will be conventional squares or rectangles.   I reasonably sure that the back walls may follow the path of the "street" which could very well be following the curve of the siding track as it winds through the district.

As I have been driving around looking at these types of buildings near where I live, it seems that most of them have different brick on the side and rear walls.   From a little reading and research, it appears that it was pretty standard practice to use a less expensive brick on the side and rear walls and it was usually just a "standard cost effective monotone brick red" variety.   

So, once I figure out the overall urban building layout, my plan is to figure out a much quicker way to just come up with a simpler less detailed weathering process to color and weather the side and rear walls and finalize this whole area.   

I am fairly close to finding a quicker weathering method with probably only two colors to give me a back and sidewall that doesn't look like plain old red plastic with mortar, but won't take the painting and weathering time that these front walls are demanding.

Chris, I agree with Bob, that is a good plan.  I have made similar observations of buildings in the small towns near where I live.

@myles posted:

I finished it off with some Clump Foliage and some small sifted road gravel here and there .   The whole project took about4hours to complete both hills. ( and 10 minutes to vacuum any loose materials ).  A fun project and when dry overnight I can touch up or carry on.  

That's a very nice photo tutorial of those great looking hills, Myles!!

Thanks Mark , I had a great time doing them.   Nice grouping of the structures Criss. That’s going to turn out nicely !

@Mark Boyce

Tonight I added characters and scenics to my empty depot.  They all came from your depot I purchased from you over a year ago.
The depot has come alive with your help.

Seth Thomas

@Seth Thomas posted:

@Mark Boyce

Tonight I added characters and scenics to my empty depot.  They all came from your depot I purchased from you over a year ago.
The depot has come alive with your help.

Seth Thomas

Wow!  Your depot looks so great!  I’m glad I was able to provide a part of it, but you did the work!  😃

@RSJB18 posted:

Makes sense.  Why spend extra time and money on less visible parts of the scene.

This is totally the problem that I have.

Dave

Starting making some trees 🌳.

Created some passenger car storage out of an old microfiche cabinet from work.  Fits 7 cars per drawer with 1/2” foam between them.   Half the drawers converted so far. Nice not to have to store them in their boxes anymore.