I never knew these had clearance issues. I tought it was just the early 1122-027 the tanks and boxes bumped on. Can you lower the skirt of the scrap and build a lower sitting half? connecting halfs with some sheet metal and/or JB weld can give you something better looking, cleaner(dust) and more "stable" to handle. Working the JB when semi set like clay gets you close(I use plastic wrap as a workable mask, smooth lifts off easy, but every wrinkle is a snag once the JBW sets hard. The end result is virtually invisible on a well mixed batch, it looks like Lionel plastic. Ball or lay greased foil or plasitc wrap smoothly over it to creat a hollow, spred and shape JBW quick set, as mold with wet fingers and tools as it sets. This corner is 100% JBW, the "V" is a poory smoothed layer; paint would fill it, but the JB matches already dont you think? Fine sanded and lightly polished...
even the two lower steps and last riser on the steps are JBW. my yellow line is crooked.
Trasitions to height really just requires some (thin) plastic, rubber, metal, or (thicker)wood or foam, and adapting pins, or skipping the pins, running power wire a few inches, and securing track well.
Spreading the grade over two tracks before the high track is pretty safe, 3 tracks each way is smooth. You want to keep the rise from level under ⅛" per track if you can; and ¼" per track would abosolute max. Even on a short grade like this, using just a single piece to get to rise that little bit is very "ramp like" and cowcatchers, or low pilot, or low uncoupling tacks, may short on the center rail starting up the hill, or nosedive against it on the decline, etc. Any bumps at joints should be squished flat/ filed or whatver it takes to make it smooth as can be, no chance at flanges snagging it.