paul 2 posted:Mark, I think the flat I was working on was for a Pennsy trailer. Not totally sure. I'll check after dinner. I think I have about forty of the Weaver TOFC's now. Some were two rail that I have been changing out as I got three trucks and couplers for them......................Paul
Sorry Paul but what is a TOFC??
Jim
Arnold,
As long as you're having fun with what you have then what it cost means little.
3rd rail is an all brass model so they are limited production and have tons of detail.
Here's what they look like before painting:
Something a lot of engines don't have: lanyards for whistle and bell.
Always nice to be able to see 'in there'!
Well detailed cab.
samparfitt posted:Arnold,
As long as you're having fun with what you have then what it cost means little.
3rd rail is an all brass model so they are limited production and have tons of detail.
Here's what they look like before painting:
Something a lot of engines don't have: lanyards for whistle and bell.
Always nice to be able to see 'in there'!
Well detailed cab.
Amazing, so I assume you painted your gorgeous engine. If so, what a great paint job you did. Seems to me that 3rd Rail engines are for the very serious and skilled modeler. Thanks for sharing this.
Jim, TOFC is an abbreviation for Trailer on a Flat Car. Mark I got the trailer out. Definitely PRR. Last couple of years I found a number of Weaver two rail TOFC"S. And on the forum here I found a guy who would make a switch with me. My two rail wheels for his three rail wheels. All I had to do was put the trucks back together with the three rail wheels. One person on the forum gave me a tip that worked for him. Run some thread through the spring. That way if the spring got away from me it was easier to find with the thread on it. The hardest thing has been to find Weaver three rail couplers. I have been lucky finding some on EBAY. I know I have bunch in a box somewhere in this house but I have not found them yet. Here is a pic of the car...............................Paul
carsntrains posted:Mark Boyce posted:carsntrains posted:Guys.. Bad thing about it is I have no use for the AF or the MARX stuff. And no idea if they run or not. I was told that they may be DC?? I guess I could use them as some sort of stand in on my layout. ??? Cool looking engines!
Jim
Hmmm, I only got my Marx a couple years ago from a guy who had already given it a tuneup. The Marx transformer is in the box too, and I don’t recall which it is, AC or DC, or both, but it hummed along nicely. The box os buried in a closet. Hopefully an expert will respond before I can dig it out.
No worries Mark. I've had that old thing since I was a kid : )
I used to put it on Lionel track and pull it with my DT&I switcher. Since both outside rails are ground it shouldn't have damaged it lol
Jim
This last bit in the statement isn't quite correct ,Jim. An ac motor is ok on dc 98% of the time. Safe to try 99.999% of the time because a motor sees the equivalent of a dc+ pulse when it sees an ac+ wave. It is the ac- wave that fries dc motors as the dc motor reverses direction when it sees the next wave which is ac-, doing that at 60 time a second burns it out.(the USA's 60hz)
When in doubt Jim, use DC.
So, a DC motor will most often fry on AC. Some may take a while, most fry near instantly to about a minute. Some may run if pushed to a running start, but they will Minsky fry in time, the "ground" wont save it. Our use of the term "ground" with our trains isn't even really correct; there is no true ground from track to transformer on O gauge AC. It is a "return", or leg, or a few other terms, but not a ground capable of protecting a DC motor from AC.
We abuse the term because it usually conveys a thought we need it to, but be wary of context when you see it.
Marx DC were battery operated in my experience.
Shine the wheels* and shoes a bit, give it a push to freshen the brush contact and some oil to sooth it, and I bet it runs as well as when you boxed it.
*There is likely a thin layer of corrosion on the wheels; they will brighten up and get better contact, but go light. They are softer than Lionel wheels, prone to cracking and disintegration too. I'd get some use out of it while that is possible before it enters a near Dorfan state of "shelf queen". New wheels are not made.
We use them today for cost savings, but DC motors were used early on in the 1900s because batteries and even DC power lines were common in the early days of electricity. If you were well off prewar, or later; rural, you may have had a battery bank and a wind or water generator, or had battery deliveries (along with your heating fuel, etc.) ( I have a photo somewhere of my Mom's Dad delivering about 8 batteries, two milk cans, 12 bags of flour and a bed of coal in HIS horse drawn delivery wagon at about 12yrs old. He may have been the original photo-bomber..? He would get himself into a background and contact the photographer later. If he liked the focus enough he would ask for copies, some blown up, then crop them...prints were cheaper than film+prints 
)
I didn't dig out the Marx 666 set today, but I did lay some track down on the tabletop to see about cutting the rest of the table top wood. It will work out nicely!
"Minsky"? 
.....The composer is freaking out again 
... I'm going to search for "Minsky" to see WTH it is 
I got a famous economics fellow, an award winning pizza joint, or a pioneer in artificial intelligence. Lol, the last holds enough irony to break a toe stumbling on it
Arnold,
3rd rail engines come already painted as do most brass engines made these days.
The one I pictured without paint was made in 1978.
The bulk of my engines were not painted and I had to paint them.
This is the result of about 40 years of painting engines: it takes awhile to do them!
I still have 15-20 more engines to paint.
Adriatic posted:carsntrains posted:Mark Boyce posted:carsntrains posted:Guys.. Bad thing about it is I have no use for the AF or the MARX stuff. And no idea if they run or not. I was told that they may be DC?? I guess I could use them as some sort of stand in on my layout. ??? Cool looking engines!
Jim
Hmmm, I only got my Marx a couple years ago from a guy who had already given it a tuneup. The Marx transformer is in the box too, and I don’t recall which it is, AC or DC, or both, but it hummed along nicely. The box os buried in a closet. Hopefully an expert will respond before I can dig it out.
No worries Mark. I've had that old thing since I was a kid : )
I used to put it on Lionel track and pull it with my DT&I switcher. Since both outside rails are ground it shouldn't have damaged it lol
Jim
This last bit in the statement isn't quite correct ,Jim. An ac motor is ok on dc 98% of the time. Safe to try 99.999% of the time because a motor sees the equivalent of a dc+ pulse when it sees an ac+ wave. It is the ac- wave that fries dc motors as the dc motor reverses direction when it sees the next wave which is ac-, doing that at 60 time a second burns it out.(the USA's 60hz)
When in doubt Jim, use DC.
So, a DC motor will most often fry on AC. Some may take a while, most fry near instantly to about a minute. Some may run if pushed to a running start, but they will Minsky fry in time, the "ground" wont save it. Our use of the term "ground" with our trains isn't even really correct; there is no true ground from track to transformer on O gauge AC. It is a "return", or leg, or a few other terms, but not a ground capable of protecting a DC motor from AC.
We abuse the term because it usually conveys a thought we need it to, but be wary of context when you see it.
Marx DC were battery operated in my experience.
Shine the wheels* and shoes a bit, give it a push to freshen the brush contact and some oil to sooth it, and I bet it runs as well as when you boxed it.
*There is likely a thin layer of corrosion on the wheels; they will brighten up and get better contact, but go light. They are softer than Lionel wheels, prone to cracking and disintegration too. I'd get some use out of it while that is possible before it enters a near Dorfan state of "shelf queen". New wheels are not made.
We use them today for cost savings, but DC motors were used early on in the 1900s because batteries and even DC power lines were common in the early days of electricity. If you were well off prewar, or later; rural, you may have had a battery bank and a wind or water generator, or had battery deliveries (along with your heating fuel, etc.) ( I have a photo somewhere of my Mom's Dad delivering about 8 batteries, two milk cans, 12 bags of flour and a bed of coal in HIS horse drawn delivery wagon at about 12yrs old. He may have been the original photo-bomber..? He would get himself into a background and contact the photographer later. If he liked the focus enough he would ask for copies, some blown up, then crop them...prints were cheaper than film+prints
I'll tell you how little attention I paid to this engine. I hadn't even turned it over in probably 40 years. I thought it was two rail. Dang thing is 3 rail lol And yes we usually call the "return" the "ground".
Jim
samparfitt posted:Arnold,
3rd rail engines come already painted as do most brass engines made these days.
The one I pictured without paint was made in 1978.
The bulk of my engines were not painted and I had to paint them.
This is the result of about 40 years of painting engines: it takes awhile to do them!
I still have 15-20 more engines to paint.
I can’t believe my eyes. You have a Railroad empire! Like Commodore Vanderbuilt.
What a massive and spectacular round house and freight yard you have.
It’s makes things look so much more impressive and real when one has the luxury of a lot of space.
This reminds me of something. When Arnold Palmer was a senior golfer, he was quoted as saying “there is nothing like youth” when it comes to golf.
Similarly, “there is nothing like lots of space” when it comes to model railroading.
paul 2 posted:Jim, TOFC is an abbreviation for Trailer on a Flat Car. Mark I got the trailer out. Definitely PRR. Last couple of years I found a number of Weaver two rail TOFC"S. And on the forum here I found a guy who would make a switch with me. My two rail wheels for his three rail wheels. All I had to do was put the trucks back together with the three rail wheels. One person on the forum gave me a tip that worked for him. Run some thread through the spring. That way if the spring got away from me it was easier to find with the thread on it. The hardest thing has been to find Weaver three rail couplers. I have been lucky finding some on EBAY. I know I have bunch in a box somewhere in this house but I have not found them yet. Here is a pic of the car...............................Paul
Paul, That’s great! The cars will look great!
Adriatic posted:I got a famous economics fellow, an award winning pizza joint, or a pioneer in artificial intelligence. Lol, the last holds enough irony to break a toe stumbling on it
LOL
samparfitt posted:Arnold,
3rd rail engines come already painted as do most brass engines made these days.
The one I pictured without paint was made in 1978.
The bulk of my engines were not painted and I had to paint them.
This is the result of about 40 years of painting engines: it takes awhile to do them!
I still have 15-20 more engines to paint.
Wow!! I never realized you had so many! Fourty a year! One per year, perhaps. That is believable.
Thanks Arnold.
Like price, one also doesn't need a lot of space either for a great looking layout and to have fun operating it.
I've seen some great track plans with lots of action in a relatively, small area.
This layout was started back in 1979 so it's had lots of time for 'development'.
Actually, it started back in the early 60's because a lot of building, etc were made back then on my first layout in my parent's basement.
It's been a lifetime development and 'keeps me off the streets at night!'
Mostly, I enjoy operating sessions with other railroaders that come over to operate the GNRW once a month. The camaraderie is half the fun.
When I was buying a house, it had to be a ranch and, of course, a full basement 
I finished scenicing the corner of my layout with my coal tower. Still a few minor items left: I will add a wood fence behind the shack and secure the tree. First time I built an asphalt road using fine and medium cinders/ballast. I’m satisfied with how it turned out. 
darlander posted:briansilvermustang posted:
Brian, can you show me some DM&IRR?????
Dave
Big_Boy_4005 posted:mike g. posted:Elliot, you got a boat load of stuff done! More then most of us would do in a day! Looks GREAT!
paul 2 posted:Elliot, when you have a slow day the next day you more then make up for it. Really taking shape plus you are getting more to the fun stuff......scenery, not so much ballasting. So I forgot to mention something in my last post. What is the best way to cut Balsa wood, Especially cross grain to get a neat cut. Any help is appreciated. Thanks Paul
Mark Boyce posted:Paul and Elliot, that’s a lot of work you both accomplished! Paul, I like your shiny, white workbench! LOL. You look like me, not much room, so I work on whatever is handy!
Mike - Thanks, but I do put in extra long days with this convention coming up. He's supposed to come out for pictures in a couple weeks. I'm at a bit of a loss what we're going to shoot and the place is a mess.
Paul - Don't forget, I usually only work Tuesdays, Thursdays, Saturdays and Sundays. Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays I have dialysis, so I usually take a nap after dinner and don't make it downstairs. That's why my work days are so long, because I feel the best then.
Mark - Thanks for visiting my YouTube channel!
I'm downstairs right now, just taking a short break from the ballast. Looks like I'll be dragging in a couple more bags for sifting tonight, after dinner and the hockey game.
Elliot, I am sure you will be right on track and have everything looking nice for the photo shoot!
briansilvermustang posted:darlander posted:briansilvermustang posted:
Brian, can you show me some DM&IRR?????
Dave
Way to go Brian, your inventory is amazing! Love the post!!!! Thanks, Dave
Ed, That corner of the layout turned out great! There is a lot of interest to see there!
Brian, I agree with Dave, your inventory is amazing!! Now that we saw DM&IR with the B&LE ore car, how about some more of B&LE, since I live a mile from the mainline, and can hear the trains from my house. 
I bet all you would have to do is Ask Brian for a picture of any engine you would like to see and I bet he has it! LOL Great pictures Brian!
3rd rail D&RGW L-131 2-8-8-2.
All fixed on derailing on curves.
I placed the L-131 on my 2" thick oak dining table (which I know is flat) and could see the mechanical oiler hitting the bottom of the boiler.
The compound air pumps were also scraping the horizontal steps of the pilot.
There are 4 screws in the 'riding' plate between the front engine and boiler. I loosened the 4 screws and put a shim (gray plastic) on both sides.
This raised the plate and, thus, also raised the boiler.
The oiler is soldered to the valve frame and, I'm guessing, the oiler was soldered a little too high.
My last option was to use my resistance soldering iron and relocate the oiler a little lower on the frame.
Put the engine on the track and it would only operate under conventional mode while using the MTH throttle: forgot to turn on the Lionel TMCC!
Video of engine working around curves:
Will post when youtube is done
That is certainly logical. Your work around fix makes sense and sounds like the best way to go. Re soldering the offending parts looks to be harder and messier.
Sam, I sure am glad you got it fixed! I bet it is a pleasure to watch it roll around the track!
Hey Mike what time do you get up out your way. Seems like you post in some very early morning hours. Inquiring minds want to know.........how much longer before you can start the walls of your layout room.............Paul
I'm with you Paul, Mike seems to be quite an early riser. I want to see that addition go up as well!
Morning Paul. As for what time I get up is all up to our English Bulldog, sometimes its 4am and other times it's 2am. then he sits there for an hour after he goes to the bathroom. If you try to go back to bed he just sits there and cries! LOL lucky me.
As far as the walls, it spose to snow this weekend so I am hopping to get to the lumber store next week sometime. If I can get the walls and roof on I will be happy, then I will go back and side it.
Mark Boyce posted:I'm with you Paul, Mike seems to be quite an early riser. I want to see that addition go up as well!
So do I Mark! If I had the lumber already I probably would have had the walls up by now!
mike g. posted:Mark Boyce posted:I'm with you Paul, Mike seems to be quite an early riser. I want to see that addition go up as well!
So do I Mark! If I had the lumber already I probably would have had the walls up by now!
Whats the hold up Mike? Its been a week! LOL Ah just work at the pace you choose. It will be summer soon! : )
Jim
carsntrains posted:mike g. posted:Mark Boyce posted:I'm with you Paul, Mike seems to be quite an early riser. I want to see that addition go up as well!
So do I Mark! If I had the lumber already I probably would have had the walls up by now!
Whats the hold up Mike? Its been a week! LOL Ah just work at the pace you choose. It will be summer soon! : )
Jim
82 here today. All this talk about snow is funny.
Deuce posted:carsntrains posted:mike g. posted:Mark Boyce posted:I'm with you Paul, Mike seems to be quite an early riser. I want to see that addition go up as well!
So do I Mark! If I had the lumber already I probably would have had the walls up by now!
Whats the hold up Mike? Its been a week! LOL Ah just work at the pace you choose. It will be summer soon! : )
Jim
82 here today. All this talk about snow is funny.
Was 70 this morning when I came to work. Think its in the mid to low 60s now and raining. BOOOO
Jim
Hey there Jim and Deuce, I am just waiting to get the lumber then I can do the walls, the roof is a different story as I have to cut the overhang off the excisting roof on the garage to get my 3/12 pitch! I would really like to do that when there is no rain in the future! LOL
briansilvermustang posted:
Brian, once again nice picture and I really like the short video!
mike g. posted:Hey there Jim and Deuce, I am just waiting to get the lumber then I can do the walls, the roof is a different story as I have to cut the overhang off the excisting roof on the garage to get my 3/12 pitch! I would really like to do that when there is no rain in the future! LOL
Could you just get some roof joists made to match the garage roof and just add on to it??
Jim
3rd rail D&RGW L-131 video.
Engine's working fine now with the 'plate' support mod.
Not sure why the smoke works only in 'conv' mode and not in 'TMCC'! On the MTH throttle, hit 'smoke', say 'on' but nada.
Works on the other engines.
Wonder why the TMCC on 3rd rail does not have the wireless draw bar versus the ugly wires?
Oiled all the major friction points.
These articulated really need plus 90, or more, diameter curves to look good: that's a lot of overhang on those curves!
carsntrains posted:mike g. posted:Hey there Jim and Deuce, I am just waiting to get the lumber then I can do the walls, the roof is a different story as I have to cut the overhang off the excisting roof on the garage to get my 3/12 pitch! I would really like to do that when there is no rain in the future! LOL
Could you just get some roof joists made to match the garage roof and just add on to it??
Jim
Jim, I wish I could, but because of the snow load I have to put a 4 X10 beam across then 2 X10's on top of that, cause the wall wont support the addition per building inspector! I was just going to cut back into the roof so the new 2 x 10 would clear, and run it out. but I found out that is a no no!
so now I am stuck with a 91/2' wall on the garage and a 6' wall on the outside. Good thing I am only 5'9". LOL
Access to this requires an OGR Forum Supporting Membership
