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Darlander, Look at you go over there! I thought I was the only one that kept stuff from the trash for modeling! LOL Have a great time with your grandson!

Paul the roof looks great! You have gone this far why not add some floors and put some people in the windows! LOL Just kidding, looks great!

Ralph, its always nice to have a nice easy fix every now and then! I weighed all my cars a few years ago, and will do the same thing before going on my future layout!

Mark I didn't know you had that many diesel engines! LOL

BRYAN, The ball field looks just amazing! Congrats for having another project finished! GREAT WORK and LOVE IT!

I just worked alittle on the train room!

paul 2 posted:

I actually had a window of opportunity to do a little something. The grand daughter and her father wanted to do a little shopping. So while they were out I glued the bracing for the roof on and once the glue dried I painted the roof again. When that dried I decided to try something. I took a black Sharpie and drew lines across the roof then I drew cross lines to make it look like a rubber or tar roof with seams then I glued it to the building. Until I can get some clear thin plastic to glue on the inside over the windows that it for this project. Pics...............Paul

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Paul, another nice option would be to replicate a tar & gravel roof by covering it with some coarse sand.  Dave

darlander posted:
paul 2 posted:

I actually had a window of opportunity to do a little something. The grand daughter and her father wanted to do a little shopping. So while they were out I glued the bracing for the roof on and once the glue dried I painted the roof again. When that dried I decided to try something. I took a black Sharpie and drew lines across the roof then I drew cross lines to make it look like a rubber or tar roof with seams then I glued it to the building. Until I can get some clear thin plastic to glue on the inside over the windows that it for this project. Pics...............Paul

DSCN2155

Paul, another nice option would be to replicate a tar & gravel roof by covering it with some coarse sand.  Dave

I have always used individual pieces of 220 grit sandpaper glued in place. The building is a scratch built replica of the D&H freight station in Whitehall, NY. The original building was 120' long; IP1000162P1000163 reduced it by one freight bay to 80 scale feet. The original plans were in a very old copy of RMC. The building still stands after many reincarnations and is currently home to Warren Tire.

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Last edited by modeltrainsparts
mike g. posted:

Darlander, Look at you go over there! I thought I was the only one that kept stuff from the trash for modeling! LOL Have a great time with your grandson!

Paul the roof looks great! You have gone this far why not add some floors and put some people in the windows! LOL Just kidding, looks great!

Ralph, its always nice to have a nice easy fix every now and then! I weighed all my cars a few years ago, and will do the same thing before going on my future layout!

Mark I didn't know you had that many diesel engines! LOL

BRYAN, The ball field looks just amazing! Congrats for having another project finished! GREAT WORK and LOVE IT!

I just worked alittle on the train room!

Mike, I have two Premier Western Maryland H9s, one Premier B&O Atlantic, and one Premier B&O 0-6-0 switcher.  Then I have a B&O F7 set in the blue/gray scheme, and a B&O F3 set custom painted in the solid dark blue.  Also I have Western Maryland F3 set, two WM BL2s, a WM RSD5, They are all Premier or RailKing Scale.  That doesn't mention my Christmas engines, all traditional sized steamers.  I prefer steam, but Premier steam is costly for me even on the used market.  

So the SD70ACE is really an oddball for me.  I traded a Forum Member who has been looking for a Premier FA2 ABBA set for a long time, but didn't have the cash.  I finally contacted him back about a trade.  The ABBA set was just too long to look good in my small space, so I thought he should have it.  I know if I tire of the SD70ACE, there are lots of folks right here in Western Pennsylvania who would like to have it.  It is a really cool engine, but will look out of place in my 1950s era West Virginia layout.  It may just stay on the Ceiling Central RR, which will accept any era.  

 

MODELTRAINSPARTS, Wonderful scratch build!

Paul, I am the same way, I have one building I am going to try and put tables , chairs, a bar and some people in! Its the one I built and named it after Cabinet Bob!

Mark I totally understand!

So I woke up this morning at 3:30 AM went out to the train room at 4 AM and painted the train room! I will see when I get home from work if it needs another coat. if not its just a few more lights, rehang the TV and then it onto bench work! YEH!

I will post pictures later when I get home from work!

     "if not its just a few more lights, rehang the TV and then it onto bench work

          YEH!"

                                     trains will be RUNNING soon

 

                                       

         

   nmp...

                                          getting to the FUN part !!! 

                     

                                                trains, pizza and beer

            

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Last edited by briansilvermustang
Mark Boyce posted:

Ralph,

Yes, my Atlas cars are the heaviest along with K-Line die cast hoppers.  Adding some weight is on the back burner for some of my cars as well, but i'll wait until I get the layout built.  When one doesn't track well on the Ceiling Central, it comes down and sits on the shelf (Rip track) under the CCRR for now.

Mark,

I've added weights to cars before but it was always guesswork. Before I weighed the other cars I wasn't sure what the proper weight actually was.  The Atlas stuff is a little bit on the heavy side for me and they're not even diecast so the MTH weight was a more realistic target.

For my next trick I want to weigh all the cars in a train I'm pulling. Did you ever wonder just how much work your  locomotive is doing? One of my routes has a steep grade that makes me weight conscious when assembling a train to operate there. One solution is to run a lashup with at least two powered units - adding additional power just like the real railroads. With two powered units on the head end I don't have to worry about the train's makeup of cars.   If I run a single powered unit then I try to watch the weight. Because I like to let the trains run for a good while each session I try not to wear them out by overworking them if I can avoid it.

-RM

 

 

Mike, Wow painting before the rooster crows!!

Brian, so whose benchwork is that?  Yours?  I haven't seen that before.

Ralph, I know when I modeled in HO, the NMRA had recommended weights for cars.  I never bothered checking mine, because I had so little room, I ran short trains.  I agree, the Atlas cars seem too heavy to me, but my engines seem to handle trains with them fine.  Again, I don't run very long trains.  Yes, I think finding out how much weight our engines pull would be a good thing to do.  Another thing to put on the back burner until I retire.  

darlander posted:

Finished the all weather cab window installation yesterday.   My “honey-do” house project: replace felt pads on living & dining room furniture, yielded the perfect window glazing solution for the AW cab windows.  The clear plastic packaging proved to be thin and sturdy enough to complete the job.   I love it when we can go shopping in the trash for modeling supplies!

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Now the SD units are ready for any type of inclement weather and the little crew members will surely enjoy the improved comfort.

 

I'm with you Dave. I scrounge up supplies from all over the place. I set up a new printer for my In-laws over the weekend. I walked into my house with the old one under my arm.....the CEO says "what are you doing with that, I thought it was broken".

As I descended down the basement stairs I mumbled something about taking it apart for the motors and stuff........

I came back up a little while later to a look of bewilderment. 

brwebster posted:
Ottawa_Marc posted:

Here's hoping it doesn't totally go up in flames....

I'll bite.  Using the torch to shape the styrofoam?  

Bruce

Wasn't fishing.......

Had heard about doing this before so thought I'd try it. Turned out OK..... kinda..... not really.... I put to much heat to it but oh well. Most of the individual brick outlines I carved melted.

It's supposed to make the extruded foam look more like brick/stone, if u do it right.

Just thought I'd share ideas.

Last edited by Ottawa_Marc
briansilvermustang posted:

     "if not its just a few more lights, rehang the TV and then it onto bench work

          YEH!"

                                     trains will be RUNNING soon

 

                                       

         

   nmp...

                                          getting to the FUN part !!! 

                     

                                                trains, pizza and beer

            

Thanks Brian, but I think its going to need a second coat of blue!20180725_18151920180725_181528

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Mike and Mark,

My work table is a mess of open Preiser 65602 boxes that are now used to sort the 24 different 1/45 figures I have painted. Four more boxes arrived last week from Germany.  I painted those this week.  I added two packs of 48 of the Preiser 68209 Unpainted 1/50 Figures.  It is now time to re-group, clean up, and run the trains.

I added pictures of the Southern Pacific Dining Car that I installed seat backs and painted the interior in February of this year.  Tonight I finally decided to added people to this car, so all my 21" passenger cars would have passengers.  

Sincerely, John Rowlen

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  • DSCN5811: Interior was done on February 28, 2018.
  • DSCN5812: People were added July 25, 2018.
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Ottawa_Marc posted:
brwebster posted:
Ottawa_Marc posted:

Here's hoping it doesn't totally go up in flames....

I'll bite.  Using the torch to shape the styrofoam?  

Bruce

Wasn't fishing.......

Had heard about doing this before so thought I'd try it. Turned out OK..... kinda..... not really.... I put to much heat to it but oh well. Most of the individual brick outlines I carved melted.

It's supposed to make the extruded foam look more like brick/stone, if u do it right.

Just thought I'd share ideas.

Marc,

you could try using lacquer thinner for a more controlled method of shaping the foam.  experiment with different applicators, such as a rag, brush or airbrush, in sparing amounts to see if you can get the desired effect.  As usual, apply thinners in a well ventilated area or take the work outside.

Bruce

John Rowlen posted:

Mike and Mark,

My work table is a mess of open Preiser 65602 boxes that are now used to sort the 24 different 1/45 figures I have painted. Four more boxes arrived last week from Germany.  I painted those this week.  I added two packs of 48 of the Preiser 68209 Unpainted 1/50 Figures.  It is now time to re-group, clean up, and run the trains.

I added pictures of the Southern Pacific Dining Car that I installed seat backs and painted the interior in February of this year.  Tonight I finally decided to added people to this car, so all my 21" passenger cars would have passengers.  

Sincerely, John Rowlen

looks fantastic.

brwebster posted:
Ottawa_Marc posted:
brwebster posted:
Ottawa_Marc posted:

Here's hoping it doesn't totally go up in flames....

I'll bite.  Using the torch to shape the styrofoam?  

Bruce

Wasn't fishing.......

Had heard about doing this before so thought I'd try it. Turned out OK..... kinda..... not really.... I put to much heat to it but oh well. Most of the individual brick outlines I carved melted.

It's supposed to make the extruded foam look more like brick/stone, if u do it right.

Just thought I'd share ideas.

Marc,

you could try using lacquer thinner for a more controlled method of shaping the foam.  experiment with different applicators, such as a rag, brush or airbrush, in sparing amounts to see if you can get the desired effect.  As usual, apply thinners in a well ventilated area or take the work outside.

Bruce

Morning Bruce

Thank you for the tip, I'll give this a shot next time. 

Finally got around to moving the box controllers for my ARC/Gantry and ARC/Lumber Loader.  When I first installed them I used the manual controllers but since then, I've moved to LCS ASC2 control. Originally I installed them on the top of my layout next to the milk platform:

I intend to scenic this scene so something had to be done with the controllers. A barrel loader is to the left so much to take advantage of.

The controllers:

I decided to use hook&loop to the underside of the table for easy access should I need them.

I tested super glue to fasten the strips but that didn't work so well.  Hot glue worked perfectly.  I attached two strips on the underside of the controllers and two long strips under the table.  I'm satisfied with the solution. The controllers do not get in the way of access to my stuff under the table yet they are readily available should I need them.

Now the fun part..making this scene come alive.... 

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John Rowlen posted:

Mike and Mark,

My work table is a mess of open Preiser 65602 boxes that are now used to sort the 24 different 1/45 figures I have painted. Four more boxes arrived last week from Germany.  I painted those this week.  I added two packs of 48 of the Preiser 68209 Unpainted 1/50 Figures.  It is now time to re-group, clean up, and run the trains.

I added pictures of the Southern Pacific Dining Car that I installed seat backs and painted the interior in February of this year.  Tonight I finally decided to added people to this car, so all my 21" passenger cars would have passengers.  

Sincerely, John Rowlen

Excellent looking vests with passengers and etc.  thank you very much 

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