What do you use for window's?

Funny you mention that John. My wife just bought some today.

Clear overhead transparencies (not the inkjet ones)...cut them with my paper cutter all the time.

I use mylar, available from a drafting supply store. Has a frosted, translucent appearance. I have used both Ambroid and super glue to attach it to frames.

 

For clear windows, like the previous post, I use plastic packaging materials.

Transparent sheets made for overhead transparencies (they are still easy and cheap to get.  I buy the type made to run through color printers: when and if I need to, I can prepare files with logos, store names, etc., on them and print them on the windows, etc. , of first floor store front windows, etc.   

Clear plastic from packaging of dress shirts.

Go to your local Dollar Tree store and buy the Tablet Screen Protectors.

Scott Smith

Hobby Town USA sells clear plastic sheets just for this and are available in different thicknesses for under $5.  I keep them around for scratch building and building kits that don't come with "glass."

Thanks guys, some interesting ideas.  

I would check with Harry Heike. The windows and doors he uses are fabulous.

Flat pieces of #1 PETE plastic.  Much of what we buy today is packaged in it (strawberries, cut fruit, BeePeople, Gargraves switches).  Its easy to cut with scissors or a paper cutter and the price is right.

Sheet Plastic from Office Depot/Office Max.

Dave, LBR

OK clear ones are taken care of.

For frosted glass I cut up milk cartons. But about the only glue that works is contact cement.

I buy clear plastic sheets at Hobby Town they are 8 1/2x11  in and cut them in my paper cutter.

Mikey

I keep the plastic packaging from all sorts of products, I have samples in various thicknesses for windows.  I use the Tester's clear parts cement to glue them, CA will cloud most clear plastic.

 

Plastruct .010 clear styrene. I like the consistent shape, thickness and glue adhesion. Still cheap but not free.  

Microscope cover slips, or for bigger windows, microscope slides. These look and reflect like glass. Because they are

I use CA.  Yes, it will cloud the (clear) plastic but I cut the plastic larger than the frame so the CA doesn't get on the part that shows on the outside.  Bonds right away and I use a screw driver or stick to hold it in place a few seconds so I rarely glue my finger to the model.

 

If I ever do a detailed interior, I'll give the Tester's cement a try.

Pretty much whatever works at the time, and doesn't deform over time. I have seen microscope slide glass in older models, and I've used the heavy plastic wrap that projector slides used to be sold in. (That dates me doesn't it?) Mylar is great for frosted glass, too. 

These windows use styrene sheets for the clear.

 

BTS Kit pictured. The sash pieces are sticky-back, for attachment to the clear styrene. I believe Rusty Stumps , another supplier, also had windows that used this same assembly format.

Window application from the inside of the model.

 

Note the tilt-in open windows.

BTS Orbisonia Station and Cabin Creek Coal Tipple pictured.

Clear styrene sheets  Evergreen Scale Models  Edit/add. There are transparent colored sheets red, blue, green, and yellow.

 

I use Microsoft.  

Great idea's!  Thanks everyone. 

I also use microscope cover slips both glass and plastic. They are both smooth and clear. I will usually use plastic on buildings and glass on locomotives or special buildings.

 

Pete

 

Clear plastic packaging, of any kind. Already paid for - one of my favorite sources is the big molded pieces that came/come in rolling stock boxes (I only keep engine boxes, with a few exceptions). Sort of appropriate, and I love to replace silhouette strips. 

 

If you want to emulate tinted windows (as in a passenger car), there is "paint" that dries to various translucent colors.

 

 

 

I use clear silicone for adhering clear plastic - it doesn't fog and and easy to apply.

I can't post any pictures from work, but I wrap clear plastic tape around suitable pictures I find on Google Pics. It looks good enough for me and the interior lighting shines through for a real nice effect.

 

You can play with the scale of the photos by choosing the size in your print options.

 

Oh yea I forgot. For larger windows I use the Rigid plastic laminate. If you have a heating unit the Swingline Fusion EZUse 3745003, found at Staples works very well.

I plan to use clear and/or frosted page protectors.  I must have a thousand of them in my file drawer.

Whatever...Last time it was the empty Q-tip box. Before that small plastic safety pin boxes on a grinder.

 

For smaller ones Testors cockpit canopy maker. A thick white glue that dries very clear, Think bubbles that dry.

It would do steam loco windows very well. Ive not found its limits yet. Anything large, I cut.  

 

 

Another interesting application available with OGR Amer-i-town kits.  Detail sheets and thin styrene or acetate sheets

 

I use Office Excel to create the window frame styles that I want.  Using the Border option under Format Cells, I can create a number of different line widths.  I can also choose the color I need for the frames.  Using the Fill option, I can create the appearance of window screens or security screens.  By altering the Cell Width and/or Row Height, I am able to adjust the size of the window panes.  I then print on inkjet overhead projector transparency film.  Cut with a paper cutter and use the transparent window cement to glue in place.

 

I used this technique in the construction of this fire station

 

 

 

 

I have attached the Excel file and a PDF print of that file showing the window and door glass. 

Microscope slides especially if I want to glaze them.

Slides or slip covers for slides??  Slides are pretty thick and cover slips are exceedingly thin.