what soap and at what dilution with water, should we use to wash both postwar and modern era trains that will not dull the finish, wash away the letters, or scratch the paint/decals?
what temperature water should we use?
what type of cloth?
should we use soft bristle tooth brushes?
thank you.
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R E A L L Y ?
Here is what I use for new paint & decals.
1. Very soft paint brush ( I purchased for acrylic varnish).
2. Dawn dishwashing detergent. (it will remove any oils and fingerprints)
3. Warm tap water.
4. Distilled water. I use an old water bottle with a #50 hole in the cap. I squeeze the distilled water out rinsing off all tap water. Believe me, this works! When the shell is dry, no water spots.
5. I place them on my back porch to dry a couple of days (it is 102 today, probably would not take that long).
Yes. The usual recommendation is to use diluted liquid dish soap. A few months ago I used the liquid dish soap we had by the sink (I don't remember the brand) diluted about 10:1. The finish on the car was dulled. I know there are diferent ingredients in these soaps and I would like to know which brand people have had the best luck with and also the answer to the other questions, to make sure I don't damage any cars.
Brother Love, thank you very much! I was typing my last post as you were sending yours.
I will try the Dawn detergent and follow your other recommendations.
Jeff, I have never used it on postwar, just new paint.
liquid dish soap and a worn out toothbrush with warm water.
Be aware that some postwar lettering is water soluble.
Some examples are the black lettering on early milk cars and some of the 6014 small O27 boxcars.
Other postwar items have water soluble decals.
Don't just dunk and scrub postwar items.
Jim
I have a friend with some serious pre war and he only uses Murphy's Oil Soap. On the stamping as well. Of course he doesn't scrub it with a brush.
Well, I've never washed many trains (mostly bodies/boilers about to be painted to
remove the building/bashing residue - so no concern with "finish"), but B. Love mentions an often-forgotten rinsing step: distilled water and spots.
I live in an area with soft tap water, so spotting isn't too bad, but distilled water
(i.e. - rainwater) is a good rinsing practice, especially if limestone is around.
quote:Be aware that some postwar lettering is water soluble.
Some paint too. The red paint on a 394 beacon or 395 light tower will often rinse off with plain water.
The silver paint used on locos such as the 629 switcher and the 2328 Geep is usually dulled by washing.
If you want to wash junky cars, I use a soft dog brush, & Ivory liquid. I try to stay away from the decals & lettering.
Here is what I use for new paint & decals.
1. Very soft paint brush ( I purchased for acrylic varnish).
2. Dawn dishwashing detergent. (it will remove any oils and fingerprints)
3. Warm tap water.
4. Distilled water. I use an old water bottle with a #50 hole in the cap. I squeeze the distilled water out rinsing off all tap water. Believe me, this works! When the shell is dry, no water spots.
5. I place them on my back porch to dry a couple of days (it is 102 today, probably would not take that long).
This is the correct answer, there has been several articles on this subject in one of the large model train magazines and several videos on this subject on You Tube. I even made a You Tube video on this subject, as it relates to decreasing plastic structures for weathering.
Dawn will get the job done. People that build plastic air planes and cars, this is what they recommend.
Gary
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