Where do you secure a Ross switch ?

With a turnout, there are a few key points to keep in mind.

• First, the turnout, the approach track (single end) and the departure tracks (multiple end) must be in the same plane. A turnout at the peak or bottom of a grade will be problematic, especially with rigid-frame steam locomotives. If you don't want to drill holes in the turnout's end ties, you can secure the end ties of the tracks attached to it to hold it in place. On a larger turnout, you'll need to also secure the center of the turnout near the frog.
• Second, there should be no kinks in the track approaching the points as you don't want any sudden weight shift of the locomotive or cars as they hit the points. In addition to this, it's usually a good idea (though not always possible) to have a little bit of straight track before the points.
• Third, make sure the points are pushed all the way against the stock rails. Use properly mounted ground throws or properly centered turnout machines.
• Lastly, trains should not approach standard turnouts at high speed. This will tend to beat up the points. There are some exceptions -- i.e., high-speed turnouts like #8's.

Hope this helps.

I can't remember if I was told or read somewhere that you should not secure the switch to your platform.  Rather secure the tracks ahead of and behind the switch.  Also, I agree with Matt about checking your points and the switch machine to make sure the points are making good contact with (tight against) the outside rail.  Your pilots might be picking the points and therefore derailing.

One more thing.  You said your switch is an O-42.  Make sure your pilot has enough swing that if can make that tight of a diameter curve.  Depending on how large a loco you are trying to push through the switch.

Rick

Thanks for the help Matt & Rick.

So I guess the bottom line is to make sure the

switch is level and not anchored..

One the wye I did notice that the switch machine did

hang up about every 10 time or so. ( I'm using a reversing loop )

It would just go half way. So right not  put a new switch machine on it

and so far so good.

On the other switch the points are hitting the rails. I will do a better

job of anchoring the track near the switch...

The engine that is giving me the problems is the CC berk that

just came out. It's a heavy engine and maybe that is why it's

showing up now.... On the approach the weight of the engine is

pushing down on the track just before the switch....

Thanks again for all the help...

Allen Miller had the best advice... Put up the track and

run it, run it, run it...

Trust me on this one. If AGHRHowie and I can do it, you can.

We have a #8 curved turnout on the layout. Howard and I had to lay that turnout twice because we got derailments because there was a subtle twist in the turnout because one of the outbound routes was on a grade (the plane problem.) Turns out that the problem was the roadbed. We literally had to pull out a foot of roadbed on all sides of the turnout and lay new roadbed.

While we were at it (like we didn't have enough of a challenge) we cut in a cross-over from the secondary mainline to provide access to the through yard from the secondary -- right next to the curved turnout. The switchwork was more complex than the first attempt, but because we got everything in the same plane, it works fine. Then we decided to make the curved turnout compatible with scale-wheeled equipment by installing a frog point. I guess we were being a little masochistic.

 I guess we were being a little masochistic.

It looks like it was worth it Matt...

For what it's worth I tried a different engine ( a camelback )

Same problem.  A friend of mine called and asked if the wheels on the

engine were tapered. They are. I guess there is a problem with tapered wheels

on flat rails. Not enough grip. But the Ross switch does not have a flat rail.

then I looked at it and it might be worn or a little damaged. I bought it used.

I have an identical switch 20" from this one and have no problems with it. 

I can't tell right now if it is flattened. Looks like my weekend is booked.

I think I have a spare and maybe I'll install that one.

Looking back I probably should have gone with 054 or 072 switches, then into

the 042 track. Then again, I should just join your club and play with you guy's.

Bruce..

Well guy's I took all the advice and put it to good use.

I removed the switch and about 6" either side of it and relayed it

with new and smoother base. Also put down twice as many screws.

Kind of did the shot gun thing with it...

So far so good. Thanks for all the help....

One more dumb question though...

What is the difference between oh an 072 switch

and a #4 turnout ?  Or what is the difference between a switch

and a turn out...

As far as I know there is NO difference between a switch and a turnout. I thought that real railroaders called them "switches" and us modelers tended to call them turnouts. I call them switches. 

Regarding the first question. Number switches don't actually have curved rails. The number refers to the angle of the frog. These follow prototypical fashion where they aren't curved either. An O-72 switch, on the other hand, forms a distinct part of the O-72 circle, as do all the other track-curvature switches. 

The nice thing about #4s is that when installed ladder-style, they automatically build a yard with parallel tracks at 3.5" centers. I've used them this way.