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Hi,

I've tried two different motors now (original & new replacement) in my Williams semi-scale Hudson and both motors got/get very hot after 15-20 min of running.  I'm only pulling a set of 4 Williams 60' Madison cars.  Engine is lubed & greased so just wondering if others have found the same and this is a characteristic of this engine/design/parts or if there is something I can do to get longer/cooler running times??

Thanks a always for your insights!

S/F Mike

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  • chessie: Williams Chessie Semi-Hudson
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I've run across several semi-scale Williams steamers with motors that draw excessive current.  When I measured the current draw with the motor under no load, it was several amps at around 12 VDC, way more than it should be for a normal DC motor of this size.

I don't have any explanation for why their motors draw a lot of current, but you aren't alone.

My brother bought one of these and wanted me to add TMCC I measured the static resistance of the stock motor and it was a hair over one ohm. WAY too low for use with TMCC motor driver boards.  The stall current on 12V was nearly 12A. This is more of a blow dryer motor.  You might get that worm off with a good gear puller and a torch.  Could ruin the motor in the process though I would not consider it any great loss.  Most single motor TMCC and DCS locos have motors around 2ohms static resistance. Dual motors are usually 3~3.5 ohms.   I counted the turns on the Hudson gearbox but cannot remember the ratio. You can try and match the stock motor RPM  but if I recall it is tooo fast.  Do you know how to compute scale speed from driver diameter gear ratio and motor RPM required ?  An O scale mile is 110' about 5.75 laps on a circle of O-72. The real Hudson's top speed was not much more than 80mph 45sec/mi.   I like to run slower as scale mph laps a layout too fast.   I went through the process (mph/gear ratio/driver dia./rpm)   in an earlier post a few months ago if you want to look through my post history.   You want a little more max rpm on your motor than what is needed for your desired max speed 10~15% that will insure that you can get to the max scale speed of your locos prototype.           j

I'm pretty sure I counted the gear ratio as 13:1.  It's easy to check for yourself turning the flywheel by hand, and note the position of the driving rods.

These are geared much taller (faster) than RailKing (17:1 and now some 26:1); LionChief (18:1 up to 25:1); and K-Line semi-scale (probably 18:1).  My experiments show that these RS-385 motors can easily reach 9000 RPM in a model train application.  With 13:1 gearing and 1.375" drivers, top speed for the Williams is almost 150 scale mph!   That leaves a lot of slow-speed performance on the table.  For example, I doubt one of these would maintain a steady 10 mph, running light from straight track into O31 curves. 

As others have said, removing the gear and replacing the motor isn't an easy repair.  My $.02, but I would be saving for THIS or THIS.

Last edited by Ted S
gunrunnerjohn posted:

I know I've seen at least three of these with a motor that sucked power like it was going out of style, the clue was when my test bench breaker popped immediately when I gave them throttle!

Just some insight from my experience.

When I worked on a driver for Atlas O, testing showed the twin motored unit stall current was only 4.1 amps. Obviously motors from Mabuchi.

Know that there is a Chinese company that does Mabuchi knock-offs.  Their name is Hing Lung Motor Manufacturing.  https://hinglmm.en.china.cn/

Tried using their mini 5V motor on the TAS smoke units.  Not so good.

Regards,

Lou N

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