12x16 design - UPDATE 4/12/12 - DCS Installed!!

I hope this will work for you.

Wow, that looks great. Didn't know that so much could fit into such a small area. I forgot to mention that I already have a good amount of fastrack. Not that I am stuck with it, I could always sell it. Could this be adapted to fastrack? I know the curves on it are much more limited.

Build something realistic, and you will not regret it.

quote:

Originally posted by SD45:
Build something realistic, and you will not regret it.

I take that to mean ditch the FasTrack?

quote:

Originally posted by Gunguyandtrainson:
I take that to mean ditch the FasTrack?

Exactly!

Ok. Thanks. I will definitely look at this design. I appreciate the help.
If anyone else has any other ideas I will look at them too. It will take me some time to get the $$, and have the time to work on it.. Right now I have to look at the benchwork. But I wanted to have a tenative plan before I started that.

Brian

I gotta chime in here.
If you want realistic you can't beat MTH Scaletrax. Smallest rails and ties makes your trains look bigger.
It has Sectional and Flex pieces to make many different designs.
Check out www.toytrainsontracks.com for some nice video showing it.
They also sell a couple DVD's on how to build a layout. I have them, Nice !
BUT, (there always is one!) The number of different switch types is limited.
They also skipped the O-48 size sectional curve, but you can make them with flex easily.
I ended up buying 2 Ross Custom Wyes to do what I wanted.
I will not put roadbed under those 2 switches and they should come out close in height.

Here's the FasTrack if you have a tight budget.

Hummmm.. that did make it tougher... but since my stuff is O-36, I would have to sell it anyways. Looks like I will stick with your first suggestion and go with the Atlas stuff. I think in the long run I will be happier with it. The more I look at it, the more realistic it looks, and the more "toy like" the fastrack looks. I like it as far as function (very tight, easy setup), but I don't mind the extra work with the Atlas, and I think I pay off in the lonrun. I do like the MTH stuff, just a little weary of the limited curves, etc that are available now.

Thanks again for the creative help.

Brian

No switching lead!

quote:

Originally posted by OGR Webmaster:
No switching lead!

Huh? Sorry don't know what you mean here?

quote:

Originally posted by OGR Webmaster:
No switching lead!

Here yeah go.

Ok...I think this one is better.

I like it, probably the best ofthem all. Thanks again for the help.

Nope...that is not a switching lead. I'm on the iPad right now. I'll explain more fully when I get back to the computer.

OK, here's a little Primer on Switching Leads.

OGR Switching Lead article reprint..

Here is a hastily done re-do of your track diagram...

I don't know why a few track sections ended up missing when I opened the file in RR Track, but you should get the idea.

The Switching Lead provides room for the yard switcher to fiddle around in the yard without blocking the main track.

Brian, guy who shares my interests. The help that the master and the guy with 45 in his handle is first rate! With the application of scenery you and your friends are gona be blown away. Simple stuff like ballast and dirt for starters. The scenery form has leads to leads to help you fill the space not occupied by track.

Really good looking small equipment will make your layout look bigger. On the Angeles Gate Hi Railers layout we have a good sized curved trestle. Everything looks good when on it, but the Mikes, switchers and other smaller equipment make it look huge. Sorry for me getting ahead of yourself.

Bench work height. If you find a comfortable task chair, the ones with the 5 rollers you might consider putting the layout at eye level when seated. That makes you part of the layout. You can still stand and get the god like view of what you have created.

Still way ahead or yourself. Sorry.

Rich, the one that you revised is the FasTrack design. The client doesn't want to use that anymore, that's why I haven't revised it.
However, the area that you revised is the reverse loop that can also be part of a main line.
If you look at my revision-1, that is too short for the yard operation, so I decided to revise it again.
In revision-3, the train yard area is separated from the main line as well as from the reverse loop area, they can operate smoothly without any distraction. The purpose of switching lead is not to interfere with any operation and have enough headroom or space while working or pulling any number of cars in the train yard, right? So that's why I decided to separate the area as shown both in my revision-1 & revision-3.

Now, here's a little adjustment and marked as a revision-4.

Revision 4 will work. Rev. 3 did not provide enough headroom on the lead.

Thanks ALL, for the help.

I have printed out the R4 design and think I am going to work on that one. Need to get my benchwork started, and that will take a couple of weeks.. but it will give me time to save the $$ for the track. I wanted to make sure that I had the track design worked out though before I started the benchwork.

I will probably, actually most definitely, have more questions in the future. If anyone knows or sees of any members that have any used Atlas O for sale let me know.

Thanks again,
Brian

@Gunguyandtrainson, use "MTH ScaleTrax (better)" or "Gargraves (tracks) & Ross (switches)" and NOT the Atlas-O.

Here's the plan of MTH ScaleTrax...



MTH ScaleTrax Sample

@SD45. Not that I don't like it, but why the preference for the MTH instead of the Atlas? It does seem to have the same realistic appearance as the Atlas.

The realistic appearance tracks are MTH ScaleTrax, Gargraves and Ross. Those are having ties to make it real while the Atlas-O is having a fixed plastic roadbed attached both the ties & tracks the same with FasTrack. Sorry I haven't seen Atlas-O tracks before, so I thought it was realistic tracks. That's my mistakes.

Atlas makes two types of three rail track.
Their traditional track is very similar to scaletrax and has solid nickel silver rails.
Their Industrial Rail track looks just like Fastrack and only come in O36 diameter curves.

Ok. It's good to hear that Atlas is similar to ScaleTrax. Thanks

Gunguyandtrainson, now it's your choice on which one have you decided to construct (Atlas or MTH ScaleTrax). Both plans and materials take-off is there for you of what's types of tracks and switches needed for your model to be purchase.

Doing my research now... Still have a while since the benchwork for both is the same. I see that the MTH is a little cheaper, and definitely will look at the Ross switches.

Thanks again to all, especially to SD45 for the design and material lists.

Brian

You're Welcome!

Be careful with Ross's switches. Check if that is compatible with MTH or Atlas tracks, but for sure it will be compatible with GarGraves tracks. Good Luck!

Additional:
Here's the MTH ScaleTrax Link. Get the Flex track instead of straight tracks.

quote:

Originally posted by SD45:
You're Welcome!

Be careful with Ross's switches. Check if that is compatible with MTH or Atlas tracks, but for sure it will be compatible with GarGraves tracks. Good Luck!

Additional:
Here's the MTH ScaleTrax Link. Get the Flex track instead of straight tracks.

The Ross turnouts don't connect to MTH ScaleTrax, but if you shim the ScaleTrax (or lower the Ross turnout) you can align it next to the ScaleTrax and you should be fine.

With Atlas track, remove the end ties from the Ross turnouts and use the Atlas joiners and it works perfectly. All of our new track work is being done with Atlas track and Ross turnouts.

quote:

Originally posted by OGR Webmaster:

OK, here's a little Primer on Switching Leads.



OGR Switching Lead article reprint..



Here is a hastily done re-do of your track diagram...



I don't know why a few track sections ended up missing when I opened the file in RR Track, but you should get the idea.



The Switching Lead provides room for the yard switcher to fiddle around in the yard without blocking the main track.

Thanks Rich. I've been following this discussion and your insight is very helpful, along with the link to the reprint.

Tim

Well, thanks to the wonderful discoveries of Mr. Columbus, I have had the day off and have had a chance to make a little progress on the layout. Got most of the outline of the benchwork framed up. Will post some photos later once I have a chance to clean up the mess.

Assuming that I am using scaletrax, is there a downside to buying all flex track and no curved pieces? Seems like this would give me more flexibility bility in my curve placement (no pun intended). I know I would have to cut more pieces, and but not a big deal.

quote:

Originally posted by Gunguyandtrainson:
Assuming that I am using scaletrax, is there a downside to buying all flex track and no curved pieces? Seems like this would give me more flexibility bility in my curve placement (no pun intended). I know I would have to cut more pieces, and but not a big deal.

The pre-curved sections will give you better "conformity". Flex can be bent, but it's possible to induce kinks into the track that you don't want. Then again you may do just fine without any kinks.

I've got both on my layout. The first couple of layouts were all flex because that's what I was used to in HO. Now with 054 and 072 curves it was just as easy for me to buy the curved sections.

You also have to cut the flex track. Not a problem (I use a Dremel with large cutoff disk) but it sprays filings around on the layout, just something else to clean up.

My latest layout I used zip-ties to hold the track in place. I had to drill a number of holes to do it, but it was easy and the ties hold the track securely, plus if I decide to move something it's easy to remove.

One last thought, I would go as large a radius as possible.

Well, I have a good amount of the benchwork up. Took a couple photos tonight. I have a temporary track of Fastrack setup to keep the little guy happy for a while.

Right side


Back left side



Little guy "working"



Still have a long way to go, but honestly never thought I would make it this far. I have OSB with Celotex sound board on top. Will probably see how things work out and possibly put more underlayment directly under the track. I like the stuff from Hobby Innovations, and the way it gives you a sort of backing for the ballast. Not to mention, lots of cleanup. Just have limited room, so I am constantly moving stuff around while I work.
Comments, suggestions, I welcome them all.

Well, looks like I have pretty much gotten the benchwork complete. Thanks to all of those who have helped me get this far. Without the forums I would still be looking for a design plan, and how to build it.

Shot looking from the door at the "rear" of the layout.





Looking toward the door to the "front" of the layout




I have a temporary setup on fastrack for the little guy to be amused with while I get this much of it built. Will probably have to take it down soon to begin the permanent track. Also, the next step will be to add trim boards around the edges and paint the soundboard.

It's going to be a "southern" layout. Haven't decided yet what I'm going to include in it as far as buildings, elevations etc... just trying to see what grows on me, and what I can fit. Any suggestions....

Brian,
Lookalike you are off to a good start! Keep us updated on your progress.

quote:

Originally posted by Gunguyandtrainson:
@SD45. Not that I don't like it, but why the preference for the MTH instead of the Atlas? It does seem to have the same realistic appearance as the Atlas.

Here is revision #4 with Flextrax

quote:

Originally posted by SD45:
@Gunguyandtrainson, use "MTH ScaleTrax (better)" or "Gargraves (tracks) & Ross (switches)" and NOT the Atlas-O.

Here is the item list for above design.

quote:

Originally posted by SD45:
Here's the plan of MTH ScaleTrax...



MTH ScaleTrax Sample

How do you get the item list to stay on top for printing?