@GregK you and I have similar space constraints. I have a few tweaks left on mine, but this is where I am leaning.
These images show the main level as well as an elevated track. However, I plan on having a subway level, with track for train storage. As John said, you can never have too much yard. That being said, I don't all my scenery to be ballast. SO, the "yard" will be under the layout, but connected to the other track.
Elevated:
I spent some time looking at your plan @gunrunnerjohn. I like your dog bone that folds under itself. I’m going to try a design with that element incorporated and see where that will lead me.
@TheRambles posted:@GregK you and I have similar space constraints. I have a few tweaks left on mine, but this is where I am leaning.
These images show the main level as well as an elevated track. However, I plan on having a subway level, with track for train storage. As John said, you can never have too much yard. That being said, I don't all my scenery to be ballast. SO, the "yard" will be under the layout, but connected to the other track.
Elevated:
I still like the folded/corner dog bone plans. But I do appreciate the access concerns that exist in my space. I think at this point I’m just enjoying brainstorming different options for the space. A lot of possibilities.
Now's the time to think about the options, it's easy to change them in the track planning software, not so easy when you're ripping up track and lumber! 
I still like your first plan best. Have fun.
I like the first plan but with the yard moved to the top left. Then you might be able to extend the yard lead around the corner.
Something to consider:
Develop a staging / storage level below the main layout.
The first thought may be, "Too many cross members to do that". However the cure is in the approach. Simply top out the height of the initial basic bench work approximately 7" below your desire height of the main level.
Then install all of your trackwork, turnouts and wiring for the storage/staging level including the ramp up to the predetermined connection point with the main level.
At this point using a sturdy decking material, place uprights somewhat like in a parking garage to support your main level.
On the bottom of the deck install a series of plastic wire clamps for circuit routing.
Terminal strip accessible from above 
If you are using a deeper staging level you can use conventional modules over the staging tracks:
Hurricane ties to lock down module 
If you are going around the wall you can use multiple level fingers.
Earlier shots of the above:
When you are tight on space to go left, right or back and forth, simply go up or DOWN. On my around the wall branch line there is enough lower hidden storage for ten drive through trains in three locations plus additional spurs. Around the wall layouts are more of a linear build. Not much in width so staging areas are usually sequential. Much like on Big Boys fabulous RR.
Going down usually takes some fore thought. Just think outside of the box.
I think I have most of your dimensions, I put together a rough idea of what I mean. It kind of does the around the room but also gives you walk in access for most of the layout. This is all Ross and GG track and just the outside 072 track, it's just what I'm used to using.
@Tom Tee posted:Something to consider:
Develop a staging / storage level below the main layout.
... SNIP ...
Going down usually takes some fore thought. Just think outside of the box.
My folded dogbone has been a delight to have and operate my trains on. But if I had planned better, I would have offset the round ends of the dogbone instead of directly opposite each other. It would have meant entering the room with a little zig-zag but the loops could have been larger diameter meaning I could run bigger locomotives. I have since added a highline just for that purpose but you being in the planning stages means you can give that consideration now.
Using the general format sketched above consider a three loop configuration. Bottom loop at say 38" then travel around the platform to the second loop (middle loop) with a median height of 43" then proceed back to the area of the 38"loop but at a height of 48. Offset the double level loops with the lower level close to the edge and the upper level further back.
This the type of track plan I have used for display running clients. It will increase your travel and add a third dimension of run.
Been busy at work/home, but I appreciate the comments and continued feedback. Took a few days away from AnyRail, but earlier this evening while lying on the floor next to my toddlers bed while he refused to fall asleep, I had an idea. This was spurred from @gunrunnerjohn layout - his multi-level folded dog bone where the ends fold under themselves. But, I've adapted that concept to the L-corner within that 15x17 envelope. It's not perfect and needs a little tweaking to make everything fit properly, but fundamentally it would work (I think). It's one continuous loop, around 130 feet run, and all O72 minimum. There is room for larger curves in some places and that hasn't been tweaked/optimized much yet. Figure with 130 feet, you could at least run 2 trains, maybe 3. I suppose there are some limiting factors of having this as one continuous loop, such as train safety. 
If you started on the outer in the bottom right corner, you would begin upgrade and eventually reach the top, crossing over the lower level in the top left corner, then descending back down along the right side of the layout. The lower level then continues around the dog bone, passing under the elevated section in the top left, and then returning to the bottom right of the layout, for the next run upgrade. I think the crossovers act as reversing loops, so trains can be turned around and run either direction on the layout. I elevated to 6", but perhaps I should go higher? Would need some advice on how high to go and what the clearance should be for bridge/tunnel portals. The grades I casually worked in just now are around 2.5%. Not hugely important now for this planning stage but looks feasible and that's the main thing...
I'm not an expert carpenter, so I've shyed away from multi-level and grades, but with a space this size, and that my main interest is running trains, that the trains need somewhere interesting to run. I'm sure I could figure out the lumber...or get some professional help. A plan like this might be a real contender for this future layout. I think the visual setup is "right" here as well - the grades and elevated sections would be toward the back, while the lower level is toward the front, so the viewing should be good and there are several opportunities for tunnels.
*Yes there are some access issues as pictured but I think I can work with the space and layout to mostly avoid those in reality.
**No yard at the moment but can probably fit one somewhere on a lower level or off to the side.
I wouldn’t worry so much about getting it perfect on a track planning software. When it comes to putting it together you can buy the curves and cut long straights to make it work. Go for it.
FWIW, my plan was considerably easier using flex track, there was never consternation about mating up pieces of sectional track, I always just bent the track to fit and chopped it. 
Your idea of running longer trains is exactly why I wanted the folded dogbone mainline, at 140 feet of length, I can run decent sized trains and not have them chasing their tails.
This kind of run was made possible with the longer mainline.
@gunrunnerjohn posted:FWIW, my plan was considerably easier using flex track, there was never consternation about mating up pieces of sectional track, I always just bent the track to fit and chopped it.
Your idea of running longer trains is exactly why I wanted the folded dogbone mainline, at 140 feet of length, I can run decent sized trains and not have them chasing their tails.
This kind of run was made possible with the longer mainline.
Nice. Yes I was thinking that this style might lend itself to Gargraves... Though I could certainly make it work with FasTrack or Atlas sectional.
Does Mianne (or others) make custom benchwork? Can one send them a track plan and they design/build to fit rather than buying a standard package?
You can get some "custom" stuff, but I don't know if they do with true custom. I'd contact Tim and ask about it. Mine was the Mianne base, then Tom showed up and lent some real carpentry expertise to getting the main level done and all the fancy fascia treatment. The second level was actually fairly easy, the level top section was cut in four sections and joined together with butt splices. The incline up to the second level was done in several pieces as well the same way. The second level is all supported with 1x2 supports. I doesn't seem like much, but it's actually rock solid.
The shiny material under the deck is butyl rubber sound deadening that I'm applying, it helps knock down the track noise from the vibration of the plywood deck.
I really like the idea of a "lower" storage yard. I will be adding that to my layout.
Also, I like a lot of action accessories. So I always take that into consideration. This includes coal yard, river and bridge interaction with lumber mill along river, etc.
I do like the inverted dog bone. I would also recommend the larger yard area along the wall as someone suggested.
Have fun!
@GregK posted:Does Mianne (or others) make custom benchwork? Can one send them a track plan and they design/build to fit rather than buying a standard package?
Check out https://www.modelrailroadbenchwork.com. He's got a YouTube channel as well where he covers some of the custom benchwork projects he does for customers. Looks like really nice work and easy to use.
@Mike0289 posted:Check out https://www.modelrailroadbenchwork.com. He's got a YouTube channel as well where he covers some of the custom benchwork projects he does for customers. Looks like really nice work and easy to use.
As a Mainne customer I highly recommend the product. The bench frame work can be set up in a day. Very easy to use and solid, study construction
@gunrunnerjohn posted:The shiny material under the deck is butyl rubber sound deadening that I'm applying, it helps knock down the track noise from the vibration of the plywood deck.
Glad to hear that is working, I may need it also.
The sound deadening material actually works quite well. I was a big skeptical, but I figured to give it a shot. The difference is quite pronounced. I have to finish applying it to the test of the elevated section. I did the easy part, now I have to get up and crawl around on the layout...
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