1953 736 Berkshire Oxidized Drive Rods - How to Remove Oxidation and Shine Up Again?

Its not hard to remove them. I just use a Dremel with a wire brush attachment. If the plating has been replaced with rust I replate with tin using a Caswell brush plating kit.

Depends on how much restoration you plan to do if the kit is worth it. Replacement rods can be had from the repro parts guys like Jeff Kane but be aware some are nickel plated and won’t match the originals. Tin is a better match.

Before after replating.

This shows a repro nickel plated eccentric rod with a original tin side and main rod.

Pete

@Norton posted:

Its not hard to remove them. I just use a Dremel with a wire brush attachment. If the plating has been replaced with rust I replate with tin using a Caswell brush plating kit.

Depends on how much restoration you plan to do if the kit is worth it. Replacement rods can be had from the repro parts guys like Jeff Kane but be aware some are nickel plated and won’t match the originals. Tin is a better match.

Before after replating.

This shows a repro nickel plated eccentric rod with a original tin side and main rod.

Pete

@Norton:  Thanks for the quick reply. I am not a mechanically inclined person, so I really don't want to remove them. There is absolutely no rust on the rods, but they look dirty and dull. (Like having dirty and dull wheels on a nice car.) I was thinking perhaps about applying some kind of polish to the rods and then using the Dremel to massage the polish into the rods to clean them. Not sure if that would be enough. I don't want to scratch them up.

That would be a good start and may be enough if no rust. You could just use a Q tip to apply the polish too.

Pete

IMHO...it will be impossible to completely clean the drive/side rods on the engine without removing them.  Any tool, compound, etc., will not clean the rod surfaces immediately adjacent to the hub screws.   Also, you'll run the risk of damaging adjacent components/areas of your engine in trying to clean the attached rods.  Just sayin'.

The tool I use is from Micro-Mark...

Brush Link

They also sell a near-identical version with brass or steel bristles, but this fiberglass version, while aggressive to oxidation/dirt, imparts far less noticeable scratch marks.  But, here again is a reason to remove the rods...you will not want any fine particles of fiberglass to remain on any oily/greasy surfaces of the engine for obvious reasons.  (Like a pencil eraser, this brush will attrit through use.)  Ergo, clean the rods lying on a disposable paper towel or rag on the workbench surface.  Then dispose of the towel/rag when done.

BTW...I use the same brush for cleaning accessible electrical contacts...but NOT motor commutators unless they can be washed afterwards! (i.e., the armature is removeable.)  Also, if you should order the M/M brush, I recommend also ordering a packet of replacement brush refills. 

OTOH, TEHO.  This is just a suggestion from my own experience....FWIW.

KD

@dkdkrd posted:

IMHO...it will be impossible to completely clean the drive/side rods on the engine without removing them.  Any tool, compound, etc., will not clean the rod surfaces immediately adjacent to the hub screws.   Also, you'll run the risk of damaging adjacent components/areas of your engine in trying to clean the attached rods.  Just sayin'.

The tool I use is from Micro-Mark...

Brush Link

They also sell a near-identical version with brass or steel bristles, but this fiberglass version, while aggressive to oxidation/dirt, imparts far less noticeable scratch marks.  But, here again is a reason to remove the rods...you will not want any fine particles of fiberglass to remain on any oily/greasy surfaces of the engine for obvious reasons.  (Like a pencil eraser, this brush will attrit through use.)  Ergo, clean the rods lying on a disposable paper towel or rag on the workbench surface.  Then dispose of the towel/rag when done.

BTW...I use the same brush for cleaning accessible electrical contacts...but NOT motor commutators unless they can be washed afterwards! (i.e., the armature is removeable.)  Also, if you should order the M/M brush, I recommend also ordering a packet of replacement brush refills.

OTOH, TEHO.  This is just a suggestion from my own experience....FWIW.

KD

Gentlemen - great points.

I will probably look into someone just replacing them for me. I was thinking about polishes or other liquids and chemicals flying around due to the Dremel and ending up in all the wrong places. I just had the 736 completely serviced from head to toe. Unfortunately, I forgot to say something about the rods. That being said, a good train mechanic could probably just replace them very quickly and easily. I do NOT want to have that Dremel tool flying around and having liquids and chemicals ending up in the very parts I just had serviced/replaced/greased/etc.

Thank you, both, for making me think about all of this.

I'd take them off and give them a good cleaning, I used Brasso Polish and it worked great. Have a Great Thanksgiving all!! God Speed and thank a vet!