2025 Marker Light Repair

JB quick. But you will have to make some sort of a fixture/tape to hold the marker in position while the JB sets up.

I recommend a JB Weld, the regular metal filled epoxy.  I had it and use it all time and find a regular speed curing glue or epoxy to almost always to be stronger than the fast cure ones. 

I just did the same repair on a marker light on a Lionel 3435, the ex Marx 333 with great results.  I also built up the other marker light as Lionel drilled out the casting to fit in a larger green gem and made the whole light case too thin and weak.

I also find the Lionel 2025 and 2035 marker lights too easy to break off.  I have bought several and most have one or both maker lights broken off.  I got tired of buying new replacements only to break off again.  I have begun to smooth off the remaining maker light bracket and add JB weld as a metal filer.  I make two new marker lights out a piece of plastic sproun and green gems and epoxy them inside the boiler front, where they are harder to brake off.

Charlie

I concur.  A tiny amount of JB Weld and call it good.  If you do it right you won't even need paint.  Just a paper thin skim will do.

I don't see why you couldn't use CA glue for something like this.  It will certainly work on metal and has the advantage that you can hold the "classification*" light in position for the ~20 seconds it will take to set up (just don't glue your fingers to the part in the process...!).  Probably not as strong as JB Weld, which is good stuff, but this piece is so lightweight and unless you expect to be taking the engine in and out of boxes that might stress the part, I think JB Weld is overkill.  Besides, since it is two part epoxy, you'll win up mixing up far more than just the 'little dab that will do ya'...

*there was a long-ish discussion about classification v marker lights on this forum a while back and if I recall correctly, the class lights are on the front and the markers in the rear...  FWIW.  If I further recall correctly, on 'real' RRs, the class lights were seldom lit - something like white if there was a second section following the train and green if you were that second section...  Someone with a better memory or better knowledge will likely correct this!

If it was broken due to poor packaging I would sent it back or ask for a partial refund. 

Forest,

I received a full refund. Plus seller said keep the loco.

It was an eBay transaction. I provided photos of the damage, and the seller was quite gracious.

Guys,

So I’m hearing JB Weld and/or JB Quick. Does it matter which one? I sort of figured that I would have to come up with a means of holding it in position while drying

Thanks everyone,

AC

JB weld is stronger than JB quick. Quick sets in 5-10 minutes and cures in 24 hours. Weld takes MUCH longer to set (seems like hours) but is stronger ultimately. If you have a fixture to hold the part EXACTLY where you want it, then weld is a better bet than quick, as long as it doesn't run down the part during the curing process.

IMO, super glue will not do the job at all. One little touch and it will break off again. Plus, it will coat the part so that JB weld or JB quick cannot be used later unless all the super glue is removed.

richs09 posted:

I don't see why you couldn't use CA glue for something like this.  It will certainly work on metal and has the advantage that you can hold the "classification*" light in position for the ~20 seconds it will take to set up (just don't glue your fingers to the part in the process...!).  Probably not as strong as JB Weld, which is good stuff, but this piece is so lightweight and unless you expect to be taking the engine in and out of boxes that might stress the part, I think JB Weld is overkill.  Besides, since it is two part epoxy, you'll win up mixing up far more than just the 'little dab that will do ya'...

*there was a long-ish discussion about classification v marker lights on this forum a while back and if I recall correctly, the class lights are on the front and the markers in the rear...  FWIW.  If I further recall correctly, on 'real' RRs, the class lights were seldom lit - something like white if there was a second section following the train and green if you were that second section...  Someone with a better memory or better knowledge will likely correct this!

Rich, 

I think I ran across a discussion where a piece of plastic sprue was used. This should fit the bill for a near perfect 1654 I have that’s missing one marker.

I have used JB to repair several broken markers with great results.

RoyBoy posted:

JB weld is stronger than JB quick. Quick sets in 5-10 minutes and cures in 24 hours. Weld takes MUCH longer to set (seems like hours) but is stronger ultimately. If you have a fixture to hold the part EXACTLY where you want it, then weld is a better bet than quick, as long as it doesn't run down the part during the curing process.

IMO, super glue will not do the job at all. One little touch and it will break off again. Plus, it will coat the part so that JB weld or JB quick cannot be used later unless all the super glue is removed.

Agree with this. Regular JB is the way to go. Given how small the point of attachment is, you need all the strength you can get. 

I don't think super glue would work at all in this situation. I'd say that even if I weren't biased - super glue has never worked worth a hoot for me on anything.   

Boiler fronts (repro or original) are only $12 or so??

Mike Wyatt posted:

Boiler fronts (repro or original) are only $12 or so??

Mike,

This 2025 is so nice + I have the marker that broke off. 

Those  originals currently on eBay look pretty beat. And a repro won’t do justice to how nice this loco is. Then there’s the heat stamped number which I think is pretty cool.

AC

The JB Weld product is a great lifesaver and I would recommend it as a required "tool" on everyone's workbench.  Just try to do some filing to give yourself as flat of a surface as possible. I use a toothpick to basically "butter" the marker light base and the surface it is being epoxied on to. 

Tom

richs09 posted:

I don't see why you couldn't use CA glue for something like this.

CA adhesive had very poor sheer strength, JB-Weld will have a much stronger bond.  One of many references.

Cyanoacrylate glue has a low shearing strength, which has led to its use as a temporary adhesive in cases where the piece needs to be sheared off later. Common examples include mounting a workpiece to a sacrificial glue block on a lathe, and tightening pins and bolts. It is also used in conjunction with another, slower, but more resilient adhesive as a way of rapidly forming a joint, which then holds the pieces in the appropriate configuration until the second adhesive has set.

If I had bought that 2025 to run on my layout then fixing the marker light would be fine, but if I had bought that for my collection, I would not be happy with a repaired marker light. I would get rid of it. Just my feelings.

eddie g posted:

If I had bought that 2025 to run on my layout then fixing the marker light would be fine, but if I had bought that for my collection, I would not be happy with a repaired marker light. I would get rid of it. Just my feelings.

Yeah, probably. But for now it’s my only 2025.

AC

A stamped 2025 would be hard to come by so try a repair. If you get others with broken lights turn the boiler front upside down and you have an engine with a different look.

Jim

The results are in!

Thanks everyone!

AC

AC,

 That looks great. What did you end up using?

Tom

MNCW posted:

AC,

 That looks great. What did you end up using?

Tom

Whoops! Forgot to say!

Went with JB Weld (the slow setting version).

Tedious to keep in place while curing. Used an alligator clip support base and some masking tape. A drop of Tamiya black satin and done!

AC

Looks great, JB Weld comes to the rescue once again.

I usually add a bit more of the hardener and you don't have to wait so long.