Skip to main content

"HONGZ" stands for HO scale, N scale, G scale, and Z scale.

Post your non-O scale stuff here!

I have started a modest collection of G scale equipment. One engine, two reefers, and a caboose. Half are equipped with LOOP & HOOK couplers, the other two with KNUCKLE couplers (manufacturer unknown).

Wanting to standardize my railroad I must pick one of the other.

Would you install LOOP & HOOK or KNUCKLE couplers on all of your cars??

Thanks....

Original Post

Replies sorted oldest to newest

Michael:    I also just started a modest collection of G scale equipment. I began making my "layout," cutting down trees (bushes) and leveling the ground for my roadbed- just like the real railroads!

Anyway, I have some American prototype engines and cars and some European engines and cars. I decided to equip the American equipment with knuckle couplers and the European equipment with Loop and Hook. You probably would not run a mix of European and American equipment in the same train, so why not just use both systems.

John

I, too, have a modest collection of G-gauge trains, including a Piko engine and cars, Aristocraft car, and one LGB. I decided to go with Kadee couplers, as I roughly model the Pennsylvania RR. I’m currently waiting for a USA Alco, and I’ll put Kadees on that also. It’s not difficult to convert.

Michael, some  knuckle couple couplers  don't play well with others and bread bag wires help keep them connected.

You can replace all your knuckle couplers with replacements such as kaydee couplers.

or you can stick to rarely fail hook & loops.

l use mainly hook & loop but do some link & pin couplers as well as knuckle couplers. Hook & Loop on stuff l want to run & not worry about uncoupling.

Over the last 30 years, I have accumulated quite a few engines and rolling stock from LGB, Bachman, USA trains, Lionel Large Scale, Aristocraft, and hand built.  I have too much rolling stock to afford the time or money to change.  I have found that the LGB and the larger Kadee couplers work well with all the other knuckle couplers so I will put a car with Kadee or LGB couplers as a transition car.  I also have a few transition cars with one manufactures couplers on one end and another on the other end.  

My 13 by 26 double track layout is about fifteen years old now and since starting, I have used almost 3000 pounds of small rock ballast.  I do not know where it goes but I need to add ballast every year.  No matter how hard I try to keep the track level, I still wind up with dips large enough to cause smaller Kadee and sometimes larger knuckle couplers to slide out allowing cars to separate.  I have gone back to hook and loop couplers on a lot of cars because this never happens with these.

Happy railroading,

Don

Add Reply

Post
×
×
×
×
Link copied to your clipboard.
×
×