Any tips of applying rubber stamps?

Have never done this, wouldn't mind a tutorial on this myself! Thanks for the post!

No, but I did watch a show on PBS the other night that showed these guys printing newspaper on a printing press.

They had ink on a flat surface and ran a roller over it.  Then they took the roller and applied the ink to the type blocks.  Applying ink using a roller seems better than applying ink to the stamp and then stamping onto the model, you get a more even covering of ink/paint using the roller.

I looked on You-tube and found this:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TLeCvJIBxNE

A lot of talk, so go to about the 3 minute mark to see how he applies ink.

When I was a kid I had a small printing press, it was a lot of fun playing with it.

The original paint used was oil based. You need to practice on a sheet of glass. This way you know the correct amount of paint and the proper pressure. I always put a small amount of paint on a plain piece of news-print. It makes a good stamping pad.

It's good to practice when you don't have the shakes. 

"Pappy"

While glass isn't a bad idea (you can clean & re-stamp) 

Any flat smooth flat clean surface is great to practice on.

 I think one of the two, is the best way for you here.

 Paper is a cheap method of "proofing" the print quality of a newly finished stamp, screen, plate, type block, etc.

  Normal for beginning production runs, its use is a "must".

Unless you are printing on paper its end results will be quit different on a different surface. If it must be paper, stick to high gloss paper for the practice.

Landing even, with little to no "*ink press out" is the goal.  (*oozing out the sides)

But

By hand, on small stamps, better results can be achieved by some, with a slight "roll"

I prefer landing the top edge 1st, resting & applying lightest pressure there. As I let the lower portion drop, and contact, I roll towards myself and lift, almost simultaneously. This causes press out to move away from the upper edges of the type, leaving a sharper line on top, where the eyes tend to look to form an opinion on which letter/number it is they see.

Place something on each side and brace your wrists.

Use two hands

Set up a guide rail to keep it straight.

Mark the center of the type along the side of the stamp, to align with a center mark on the piece to be stamped (registration marks) (mark on tape then remove tape later)  

I use a sheet of glass to roll out the paint. Since I am using Olsen's water based ink I just practice on model. It may take 30-40 tries before i am happy with it. Too much or too little ink or rolling the stamp can make it unacceptable. 

Some say you should use oil base ink and that may be but my stuff has stood the test of time.

Pete

Boy thanks a lot. I know nothing about it, so it all helps. I am doing a 671RR and a 726.  Sometime soon. I have a basket case 726 I am resurrecting. Paint, motor, all electric items, drive hardware, and believe it  or not more. Broken cab corner, nickel drivers, etc.  May as well buy another I guess. I have a few others already and this one had nothing to lose, so I figured I would try my hand at it.

The 671RR is real nice already except for the numbers.

Thanks again 

Exactly. Drying time is a few hours at least. It wipes off cleanly with a damp towel. If I have two sides to do I wait at least a day to make sure the first side is cured.

This is a repainted Williams engine stamped with Olsen's stamp and ink.

Pete

I have to do some stamping on a 2046 and 2025 that I restored several years ago that I've been putting off.   I was told to practice on a mirror a few dozen times until I liked what I was seeing then to stamp the engine right away while you have the knack.

Paul

As other's have stated, practice on something. Glass, paper, whatever.

The difficult part, is getting the numbers in the right place and level on the cab.

What I do to help with allignment is to set the stamp, dry, where you think the ideal spot is. Then place tape around the stamp body on the model where you can see it from above. The actual raised portion of the stamp won't be visible from above.

Pete

I gave up on rubber stamping and use J&A hobbies rub on transfers. Only an absolute expert can tell whether they are transfers without scraping them. If you clear coat over them they are never going to come off and will stay put without it.

Rob

For Rubber Stamps for Model Train Restoration, check out this link.

http://www.jlmtrains.com/rubber_stamps.htm

The video, talks about rubber stamping on Lionel Trains, but he likes stickers better.

You will see him working on a passenger car.

If you don't have a roller, on glass, using a putty knife, wipe/spread a thin layer of thick paint artist tubes, or ink on the glass, and touch the stamp to it for even "ink" application.

A blot to paper will help remove excess to avoid press out, and not all the stamps were med-heavy, many were light, and not very "crisp" on edges.