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Heres a GP 38 I got from Eliot Sher a while back. Detailing has come along nicely as well as paint. I've got it mocked up now and ready for final detailing and lettering. Shes headed for the Clinchfield roster. Next is a Williams switcher I got from forum member Chris Lonero. Got her stripped and detailing has commenced. Its going a lot quicker than I anticipated. I dumped the antenna and the jacko lantern lights on the front. Added some steps,grabs,rings,green tinted automotive type safety glass and wipers. paint has not been decided. rustyrailoscale@windstream.net

Thomas

 

GP 38 build 001

GP 38 build 006

Williams switcher 009

Williams switcher 011

Williams switcher 010

lift rings 003

Williams switcher 019

Williams switcher 007

Williams switcher 008

Williams switcher 021

Williams switcher 006

Williams switcher 004

Williams switcher 022

Williams switcher 009

Williams switcher 010

Williams switcher 011

Williams switcher 012

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Images (13)
  • lift rings 003
  • GP 38 build 001
  • GP 38 build 006
  • Williams switcher 019
  • Williams switcher 007
  • Williams switcher 008
  • Williams switcher 021
  • Williams switcher 006
  • Williams switcher 022
  • Williams switcher 009
  • Williams switcher 010
  • Williams switcher 011
  • Williams switcher 012
Last edited by rustyrail o scale
Original Post

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Originally Posted by Jumijo:

Rusty, I'm getting ready to repaint a set of Williams F3s. How did you remove the paint from your shells?

Using a blast cabinet. I can strip the shells for you if you dont have access to a cabinet and media. $10 per shell + what ever shipping cost you there and back.

Thomas

 

Heres what I discussed in the past on this.

https://ogrforum.com/d...ent/2415514336881093

I have done something to all of my Williams. Here are two of my U-boats. I added windshield wipers, firecracker antenna's, drop steps, end railing chains, MU receptacles, air hoses, repainted and weathered the trucks, scratchbuilt new fuel tanks, reworked the pilot faces, added some extra parts to the pilots, painted the stacks, painted the cab side center windows, added a decal to the top of the noses, replaced the factory brake wheels with brass parts and added diamond plate to the frame and body walkways. These weren't major upgrades, but I think they did a lot for the overall appearance of the locos. All of my Geeps received similar treatments. My PA's had a few changes and my E-7's only got new fuel tanks. I have yet to add any parts to my scale Hudson, though I have bought a few parts, I have put that project on the back burner for a while.

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Images (2)
  • 101_0799
  • 101_0800

Whenever this comes up I have to show off my WBB Seaboard E7:

 

 

 

I need to re-wire the LED headlights as the top one should be a Mars light, usually dark.

 

I installed wire grabs, windshield wipers, cab/crew, Kadee couplers, ERR Cruise Commander, MRC AC Sounder, and Nathan 5-chime horn.  I re-arranged the stirrup steps so it would negotiate 072 curves with the Kadees on and also cut out the number boards.

Originally Posted by rustyrail o scale:

Cando, Would you happen to have the Lionel part # for the snow plow?

Thomas

Sure do!

It is from a Lionel Delaware & Hudson GP38-2

That plow item # is 6208578117.  If you go to Lionel's parts site and type in GP38-2, you can check out the other plows.  I put a blue one, from an Alaska GP38-2, on my Centennial GP9 and it looks great.  Eventually I will paint the plow on the Williams Geep.

 

Here's my other William's by Bachmann...a C&O/Pere Marquette E7.

Mods on this one...

*LED headlight

*Cab interior w/figures

*P&D Hobby F3 pilot that matches the real C&O/PM #95

*Removable brass pilot door(P&D Hobby)

*Scale coupler

*Light weathering of the trucks

 

Here is a link to my album that shows the mods as I progressed http://s574.photobucket.com/al...0E7%20fixed%20pilot/

 

Future plans are to lower the locomotive on its trucks slightly.

 

To show the differences, on the left is the factory dummy unit and on the right is my modified power unit.

 

 

 

This has a fixed pilot, but can still operate on O-36 curves if necessary.  I had to grind some of the front truck off, in order for it to clear the coupler.  The pilot door snaps in place with Mighties Magnets.  The coupler can be pulled out slightly and pushed back in for pilot door to fit. 

 

 

The real #95...

 

Last edited by Michigan & Ohio Valley Lines

I have only done them to WBB products that are close to scale to begin with like the Sharks, F3's and and E units. The engines with stamped metal frames or the bizarre looking F7 I will not buy. The main thing i do is add diaphragms, detail and TMCC and cruise. When i want more modern locos like the dash 8, ES44AC or the AC6000 I stick with MTH and Lionel.

FANTASTIC WORK-I JUST GOT A LIONEL NYC FT AA SET.IT NEEDS A INTERIOR W/FIGURES

PLUS MU HOSES AND DIAPHARMS.I GOT THE LIONEL PARTS NO'S FROM THE 2002 NYC

F3 A UNIT FOR THE PARTS.6-14552 NYC F3 AA SET

1)WHAT DID YOU USE TO PLACE MU HOSES ON-CA GLUE-ANY DRILLING INVOLVED

2)DO YOU GLUE INTERIOR TO ROOF OR FLOOR OF ENGINE TO GET PROPER

PLACEMENT

3)WHAT DIAPHARMS DID YOU USE-PLASTIC ONES OR MTH RUBBER VERSIONS.

 WOULD LIKE TO TRY A METAL HANDRAIL ALONG CAB DOORS BUT WHERE DO

YOU GET THEM AND HOW DO YOU DRILL HOLES CAREFULLY AND ATTACH THEM

TO CAB SIDES-CA GLUE.

I APPRECIATE CRAFTMANSHIP GUYS AND YOU FELLOWS HAVE IT

Originally Posted by John Korling:
Looking really good.  Although personally if I were to go through all that effort then I would definitely take the extra steps and do away with the stamped steel oversized handrails/stanchions and upgrade to wire as it still stands out quite a lot.

John, I greatly agree. It looks like I've got a lot done on this engine but in reality I've just barely begun. I have yet to finish the paint,weathering,fading,patching,cab glass,roof beacon,ditch lights and building the smoke manifolds then I will move to the frame and detail the trucks,fuel tank,pilots and lastly I will remove those rails in favor of wire rails. I got my hands on a new set of wire handrails from a Williams SD-45 and they look promising with a few modifications. I can build the rails from raw brass myself but the stachions are a little more difficult.

Thomas

I have a WbB GP38 dressed in the black NS colors. I removed the two light bulbs and the fake red lights  and installed 8 LEDs. 4 white LEDs went in the front & rear headlights, 2 white LED's went in the front nose where the red plastic jewels were & two red LEDs went in the rear where the red plastic jewels were. If I was to do another, I would reroute my wires differently- I had no clue there was <1 mm of clearance between the front can motor flywheel & the top of the shell! Anyhow, after some adjustments, all is well, and it lights up the night. Nice, Cheap & Easy modification. I might have $4 in it. Here it is last year pre-modification.

5549

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  • 5549
Last edited by rogerpete
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