Building insulated sections from tubular track

When I was a kid, I would cut up cereal boxes to make insulators. Worked well enough. The goal is to insulate it some how some way. i don't see why fish paper couldn't be used. Whatever is utilized, just take care that the insulating properties remain in place after the crimp is applied.

Tin man is a forum sponsor and I am pretty sure h sells it. His web site may have specs.

@bmoran4 posted:

When I was a kid, I would cut up cereal boxes to make insulators. Worked well enough. The goal is to insulate it some how some way. i don't see why fish paper couldn't be used. Whatever is utilized, just take care that the insulating properties remain in place after the crimp is applied.

BMoran, That made me chuckle.  I did the same thing with cereal box board when I was a kid to make track sections with insulated outside rails for our crossing gate.  It works.

1/100 of an inch thick fish paper, sounds thin and seems like it would be very easy for any one of the corners of a track tie tab to accidentally pierce during re-crimping.

@SteveH posted:

BMoran, That made me chuckle.  I did the same thing with cereal box board when I was a kid to make track sections with insulated outside rails for our crossing gate.  It works.

Today (no longer physically a kid), I harvest insulators from my lower condition track pieces.

Has anyone used a double thickness of electricians' tape?  John

Elec tape or fish paper and many other things  would work as long as you don't crimp the tie down real hard.  At 18-20volts you don't need a high dielectric material as long as your crimp doesn't pierce the material.  Harvesting the old insulators is an excellent source since they are already cut and shaped.

I used cardstock inkjet paper. Thick enough to hold the bend around the edge of the rail and not get pierced when crimped down.

I don't think electrical tape would hold up. Over time the adhesive gets soft and the tape could move.

I've used good quality electrical tape (the expensive 3M stuff) for years without a problem.

A great example of "you get what you pay for."

Ralph, In working on restoring a Dealer display that had been sitting around in a garage for many years, the curved insolated sections of "O" gauge track, the insolated rail insulators were pretty much toast.  The local train shop sells those cardboard insulators from Lionel.  Very reasonable price for 50, if I remember was $.10 each, so $5.00.  I had in the passed used electrical tape with success but it is much easier to use the insulators and they are the right color.  Also they can be used for "O" and "O27" track.  Just have to remember not to re-crimp the ties to tight.  Check with a Lionel Parts dealer to see if they are still available.

Dave 

I have used a double layer of black 3M tape for years and no issues or failures.

Insulated rails on curves can be a problem, as the trains exert much more wear against the ties there than anywhere else.  You might get away with fish paper on the straights.

Jon

Ralph, on Lionel's Dealer Displays they always used the outer rail as the insolated one and soldered a wire to that rail, most were on curves, one or two sections.  On "O" and "O27" postwar track I use track clips on all insolated sections to help keep them in place along with track screws. I also use track clips on track sections that use the 145C contactor and the 153C.  The vibration of the trains can work connections and yes the insolated rails loose in time.  If you are trying to do a traditional layout and use those contactors, plan on adjusting the regularly.  The insolated sections work much better as long as you keep your track and wheels clean, but I still use the track clips to help keep them in place. 

Dave 

I have cut strips from thin automotive gasket material and it works well. You can find this in most auto stores in a variety of thickness.

The Green Hanging File Folders make the best In my opinion.

I use pieces of plastic cut to size from empty two liter bottles. Fold them and give them a squeeze with pliers. Works great.

Sounds like there are many good options and economical solutions to make insulated sections.  Just a reminder that to make everything work, don't forget the insulating pins on each end of your insulated block, in the insulated rail.  Sorry, must have had a brain freeze to forget putting that in my post.

Dave

You can buy insulated track on ebay and I saw a piece at my local model shop for $9.  However I've made them using card stock like mentioned above.  And yes, don't forget the plastic connector pins when attaching your track together.

Ralph,

I just took apart an old section of Lionel track and the insulator measured .032".  I see fish paper on line at .030 (+/- .003), so I'd say that's what you want. The .010 is probably a little thin.

Thanks. That’s the info I’ve been trying to find.

I took a different approach and got rid of the insulators and just used wooden ties.

You need: wooden ties, insulation pins (for when you are done), white glue and short heavy object (a 1951 UP Alco A unit is fine).

1st, deconstruct the track. Then, lay out the rails and ties. Add the white glue. Then,  anchor it to 2 pieces of tinplate track to keep it straigh. Lastly, aapply the weight (the UP Alco). Then place the insulating pins. You have made a piece of Gargraves.....

I did this a long time ago.......my son is now 29 and I look a little different....this was probably the late 90s....maybe 1997.....

Peter

Peter