Buy/Make Anything Cool Lately (Tinplate Version)

There is one on eBay in Australia.

Steve

Mine has a "Best Before" date of Sept 2015.

However I think I've been misleading everyone.  Apologies for that.  I had another look at mine and there seems to be different colors on different sides.  So perhaps it's just a case of fading on the sides facing the sun or light.

 

Yup, looks like too much light

Funny, I wanted to say I liked the sandstone color better, but didn't want to offend. 

It could look better on some layouts than tan with the pastel shade it has too.

Adriatic posted:

Funny, I wanted to say I liked the sandstone color better, but didn't want to offend. 

It could look better on some layouts than tan with the pastel shade it has too.

I agree with you that the warm sandstone color is better ... and also more correct.

Shows you how damaging the Sun can be to litho. 

George

well under the make....this 807 was in the bunch of four wheel cars someone tried to make into two truck cars buy mangeling the frames. The body looks ok in the pics, but like some of the others had a heavy handed brush repaint. 

paint strip and new paint, and set on a spare 620 frame and trucks.

And let there be light!

Just getting back to this thread.

Thanks folks for all of the postings on "Big Ben" and for the sleuthing.  Mine is all tan and has a "Best if used by" date of 9/30/2014.

This is another piece that I spent some time looking for on ebay because I saw it in someone's photos of their layout.  I have had it for several years now.

And a size comparison with Big Ben

The next layout will have a Wide Gauge portion (maybe 5 rail track) and I have been considering having a World's Fair theme park on it.  Perfect place for these pieces, and I also have a reproduction Hellgate Bridge  that I could use.  Does anyone have a "tinplate" model of any other iconic buildings?  Hmmmm  wonder if I could find a cookie tin of St Basil's in Moscow.

Thanks again for your posts.

Northwoods Flyer

Greg

 

I just remembered that I also have the Statue of Liberty by K-Line (?)

While she may not be tin, I think she could work in with the World's Fair Park theme.

Maybe I can find one of those pot metal versions of Lady Liberty with a clock on ebay.  

Northwoods Flyer

Greg

Greg J. Turinetti posted:

I just remembered that I also have the Statue of Liberty by K-Line (?)

While she may not be tin, I think she could work in with the World's Fair Park theme.

Maybe I can find one of those pot metal versions of Lady Liberty with a clock on ebay.  

Northwoods Flyer

Greg

Or you can build a Vegas strip with these in the middle of the layout

 

 

New age cast bronzeplate?

This is my planned centerpiece for a micro tinplate layout when I'm ready. It was going to go into my TV, but I couldn't see the top well enough. I need a larger TV.  

The little Kong billboard magnet was not a part of it.  The roof comes off the main structure at the edge of the verticle lens to access the bulb. Top windows are vents.  It could use a smoke unit there imo

These  lamps were not cheap and were hard to aquire even from the maker (NY,NY)  Ever see one grab it. You likely won't see another for many many years.

($400ish wholesale in the 90s)  15" to peak; 19" to the ball on top. 

Greg J. Turinetti posted:

I just remembered that I also have the Statue of Liberty by K-Line (?)

While she may not be tin, I think she could work in with the World's Fair Park theme.

 

Maybe I can find one of those pot metal versions of Lady Liberty with a clock on ebay.  

Northwoods Flyer

Greg

Lady Liberty is in my travel show tub. She is always front and center.

Steve

A recent find of two German signals, the AF lamppost is just to give an idea of the size. They all are in need of some restoration, the center one is a Marklin from the 1900's years but I do not know who have made the platform clock model. It is intended for the french market, funny to notice that there is a severe misspelling on the right, in french, trains is the same than in English not "Traines".  It must also have been lighted, the clock is on a cellulose base. Maybe it is DOLL but I am not sure at all, any idea welcome....

Daniel

Hello Daniel,

the clock was made by Karl Bub, here a picture from catalog 1936.

 

Arne

Arne posted:

Hello Daniel,

the clock was made by Karl Bub, here a picture from catalog 1936.

 

Arne

Hello Arne,

Many thanks for your answer, I will make a lighting unit to complete it.

All my best wishes, Daniel

Hello,
I had found two Bub Pullman coaches, both in bad condition, one discolored, the other burned, except the couplings defective. However, the cars have nearly the same suspension as the Bub Adler coaches.

A paper case was first printed to try out.

Looks already good, so the two coaches were used.

The couplings were repaired and reinforced with wire.

Frames and roofs got new color.

Due to the slightly different character of the chassis, it was difficult to paint the yellow lines properly. Was painted with a 1 mm paint marker.

The first sheet was, as so often, scrap metal, the image was shifted from the middle.

So the drawing was reworked a bit and reprinted. But there was an unexpected difficulty, I noticed that both sides of the car are printed differently.

The whole was then laminated to the sheet using transfer paper. Then it was painted with clear lacquer.

And finish.

Greetings
Arne

How do you get your nice roll and corners at the bottom Arne? Any pattern shots of the area?

Adriatic posted:

How do you get your nice roll and corners at the bottom Arne? Any pattern shots of the area?

This is easy. Here a few pictures with a scrap part.

The sheet has to be a bit longer so you can bend. First bend to top.

Now a wire on the front and bend down by hand and a block.

Next bend down, easy by hand.

After them, cut the sheet.

For the corners, you need a few blocks and bend down by hand.

Finish.

 

Arne

Very nice tutorial!  Thanks Arne. I certainly like to see everything you post here.

This weekends tinplate pick-ups:

 

MARX Pedestrian bridge, sporting Pennsy herald, crossing over 2 Lines  of track.

 

Not sure if you’d count this as tinplate? Maybe I’m asking that just because it’s my first American Model Toy’s train. Not Lionel or Flyer but not Marx or Unique Arts. I love them. Cleaned off the on combine car and it ran beautifully. 

What to do with a shattered Marx 1666 side smoker and a 666 with a dead motor.

Steve

Probably a bit yawn inducing to most members here, but kind of exciting to me as I dont get to collect much USA stuff due to exchange rates and postage combining to scare the heck out of the moths in my wallet .

But this week I did get a few from the UK of all places where I am lucky in that I have a guy there who will box up multiple things and post on cheaply to me

Some trackside accoutrements ( I have been watching too many lifestyle TV programs obviously ... accoutrements ?  ... errr stuff! )

Couple of American Flyer

And a bit of Bing ( Bing is always good !)

And a double bogey Mettoy

 

Like I said probably very boring to most , but your trash is my treasure down here  lol !

I like junk...I'm the guy at the train shows on the floor going thru the junk boxes.

After checking out the table tops then I go under to "dumpster dive". Steamer is usually there, my be he lives there??

Great stuff Fatman! Been known to root through under the table too but getting back up is becoming a problem! 

Fatman, that Bing tender must have been used as a transition piece. It has a Chad Valley T&S coupler attached to the end we can see with a cotter pin?

It doesn't always work out! 

Like many others I bought one of the tinplate buildings from Michael's craft store last Christmas season.

I thought this would be a nice simple repaint project, so I decided on Blue and White, largely because I had those color rattle cans in the garage. This one screamed "General Store" to me so that what I wanted to make it.

 

Fortunately the front and back separate easily with a couple screws.  It turns out the bulk of the front facade is actually wood!

The metal front is an embossed sheet piece

I taped everything up and prepared to make it look beautiful, one coat at time over several nights in the garage.

Unfortunately, even with a coat a primer, whatever the base coat was, it didn't like getting repainted!

 

Looks like this project will be a do over.  I am going to try to sneak this into the sandblast cabinet at work, and then hit it with primer again.  Since the base materiel appears to be galvanized, I am open to suggestions on painting/prep if anyone has some experience to share.

Use a primer for galvanized tin and test it first. Your garage paint might not work.

jhz563 posted:

It doesn't always work out! 

Like many others I bought one of the tinplate buildings from Michael's craft store last Christmas season.

I thought this would be a nice simple repaint project, so I decided on Blue and White, largely because I had those color rattle cans in the garage. This one screamed "General Store" to me so that what I wanted to make it.

 

Fortunately the front and back separate easily with a couple screws.  It turns out the bulk of the front facade is actually wood!

The metal front is an embossed sheet piece

I taped everything up and prepared to make it look beautiful, one coat at time over several nights in the garage.

Unfortunately, even with a coat a primer, whatever the base coat was, it didn't like getting repainted!

 

Looks like this project will be a do over.  I am going to try to sneak this into the sandblast cabinet at work, and then hit it with primer again.  Since the base materiel appears to be galvanized, I am open to suggestions on painting/prep if anyone has some experience to share.

I've only primed mine so far but I used Train Enamel. Also I scuffed up the paint with scotchbrite and ran a tack cloth over it before laying down the primer. What kind of primer did you use?

samdjr74 posted:

jhz563 posted:

It doesn't always work out! 

Like many others I bought one of the tinplate buildings from Michael's craft store last Christmas season.

I thought this would be a nice simple repaint project, so I decided on Blue and White, largely because I had those color rattle cans in the garage. This one screamed "General Store" to me so that what I wanted to make it.

 Fortunately the front and back separate easily with a couple screws.  It turns out the bulk of the front facade is actually wood!

The metal front is an embossed sheet piece

I taped everything up and prepared to make it look beautiful, one coat at time over several nights in the garage.

Unfortunately, even with a coat a primer, whatever the base coat was, it didn't like getting repainted!

 

 

 

Looks like this project will be a do over.  I am going to try to sneak this into the sandblast cabinet at work, and then hit it with primer again.  Since the base materiel appears to be galvanized, I am open to suggestions on painting/prep if anyone has some experience to share.

I've only primed mine so far but I used Train Enamel. Also I scuffed up the paint with scotchbrite and ran a tack cloth over it before laying down the primer. What kind of primer did you use?

I did a couple of tin houses and still working on them. I to use the red scotch bright and wipe it down with lacquer thinner. Some folks have problems with the paint chipping off but if you prep the surfaces it helps. 
Just have fun and take your time.
To me this project will learn teach the art of masking.
I use the thin model masking tape for covering/edging in the detailed areas then the blue masking tape for the large fill in areas.
Still have to put clear plastic sheet in for the windows and add curtains and shades and signage.
This will be my "Standard Ville Dance Hall"

Mine will go on a detailed wooden base that is landscaped with fences, bushes, trees and a walkway.

samdjr74 posted:

jhz563 posted:

It doesn't always work out! 

Like many others I bought one of the tinplate buildings from Michael's craft store last Christmas season.

I thought this would be a nice simple repaint project, so I decided on Blue and White, largely because I had those color rattle cans in the garage. This one screamed "General Store" to me so that what I wanted to make it.

 

Fortunately the front and back separate easily with a couple screws.  It turns out the bulk of the front facade is actually wood!

The metal front is an embossed sheet piece

I taped everything up and prepared to make it look beautiful, one coat at time over several nights in the garage.

Unfortunately, even with a coat a primer, whatever the base coat was, it didn't like getting repainted!

 

Looks like this project will be a do over.  I am going to try to sneak this into the sandblast cabinet at work, and then hit it with primer again.  Since the base materiel appears to be galvanized, I am open to suggestions on painting/prep if anyone has some experience to share.

I've only primed mine so far but I used Train Enamel. Also I scuffed up the paint with scotchbrite and ran a tack cloth over it before laying down the primer. What kind of primer did you use?

I just wiped it off, didn't scotchbrite it or anything, just assumed it was a basic silver paint.  Since posting I have also read that wiping it down with vinegar before painting may help with the adhesion.  Anyway since I now need to get the paint off I think this will have an interesting look when done.  I should go get some pinstriping tape. Cutting the tape with a razor blade is tedious.  

I used a rustoleum white primer.  Indeed just one of many rattle cans in the garage, but decent quality.  I will keeps folks posted as to how this turns out.

John Z.

jim pastorius posted:

After checking out the table tops then I go under to "dumpster dive". Steamer is usually there, my be he lives there??

I usually start down there.....

 

 

John H. Shetler posted:

Great stuff Fatman! Been known to root through under the table too but getting back up is becoming a problem! 

I've been aware of that myself......

JHZ, You want "etching primer" for the galvanized (automotive supply or painter's supply house), cost is higher; but great stuff. (kinda hard, so hard to sand too. Go light and easy; no runs, etc.) Everything else will eventually chip or peel. Etching primer chemically treats and binds to the zinc (or other hard to paint metal too like brass, copper, etc.) You either didn't clean with a solvent, didn't allow full cure, or didn't use compatible paints. (unusual for a topcoat to react to a primer... is that the case?... If so, brands type& color please....so we don't repeat it )

Adriatic posted:

JHZ, You want "etching primer" for the galvanized (automotive supply or painter's supply house), cost is higher; but great stuff. (kinda hard, so hard to sand too. Go light and easy; no runs, etc.) Everything else will eventually chip or peel. Etching primer chemically treats and binds to the zinc (or other hard to paint metal too like brass, copper, etc.) You either didn't clean with a solvent, didn't allow full cure, or didn't use compatible paints. (unusual for a topcoat to react to a primer... is that the case?... If so, brands type& color please....so we don't repeat it )

I use the Rustoleum etching primer and I usually prep the surface on all my tin (after stripping if necessary) wit scotch brite and lacquer thinner. Make sure you test your top coat on a separate piece with the final color paint to make sure there is no reaction to the two paints

Adriatic posted:

JHZ, You want "etching primer" for the galvanized (automotive supply or painter's supply house), cost is higher; but great stuff. (kinda hard, so hard to sand too. Go light and easy; no runs, etc.) Everything else will eventually chip or peel. Etching primer chemically treats and binds to the zinc (or other hard to paint metal too like brass, copper, etc.) You either didn't clean with a solvent, didn't allow full cure, or didn't use compatible paints. (unusual for a topcoat to react to a primer... is that the case?... If so, brands type& color please....so we don't repeat it )

Thanks for the info.  

I think there must have been a small spot on the primer that didn't take, about the size of a dime.  After that the paint job was already ruined so I had nothing to lose.  I wiped the area with a paper towel and hit it with the top coat again.  It just got exponentially worse after that.  

Fatman posted:

And a double bogey Mettoy

 

Like I said probably very boring to most , but your trash is my treasure down here  lol !

This is not Mettoy. It´s Model 802 LNER goods van made by Brimtoy. Building time 1932-45 and 1951.

 

Arne

Arne posted:

This is not Mettoy. It´s Model 802 LNER goods van made by Brimtoy. Building time 1932-45 and 1951.

 

Arne

Thank you yet again Arne ... I really need to spend some cash on the Michael D Foster books lol !

Went antiquing in Carlisle, Pa. today and bought some older reading material plus a Lionel O gauge 152 loco tht runs nice. Saw some other items but don't need them.

I haven't had an etching primer fail to take another paint. A couple of "regular" primers have gator skinned though. I avoid "Rusty" spray products in general; "shop paint" o.k., but nothing I'll care about...lots of reasons.