Connecting two realtrax switches together

The turnout that you mention here is incorrect. The number indicates the diameter of the curve if it were extended to make a complete circle. O-31, O-36, O-48, etc correspond to 31 inch, 36 inch, 48 inch diameter curves. For a turnout, you have a straight section and a curve section. The number pertains to the curve section. As far as I know, there is no O-71 realtrax turnout. But there is an O-72 which uses a curve that makes a large 6 foot circle. (Measurement is based on the center of the track).

Putting all of that aside, to solve your problem you might want to wire the same transformer to the loop that has no power. There should not be any need to cut anything off the transformer. Just keep the power wires separated throughout. Positive (+) to center rail, Negative (-) to outside rails.

Thanks for the info on the turnout aspect...I was using my phone and didn't cross check my typing.

Regarding the wiring....the transformer uses plug ins rather than traditional screws.  If I were to purchase wire to connect directly to the other loop what kind of wire would I need and could I connect it directly to another lock on.

Please keep in mind this is set up on the floor of a soon to be 7 year old boy...the less interesting i make it the better to keep curious minds from taking it apart.

Hey,

I think that you will find that you have no common or outside rail connection of the inner loop with the outer loop. This happens when you make a crossover with two RealTrax switches. The inside rail of the turnout is dead for the non-derail (automatic switching). When you put them together, there is now one dead rail on each side.

The solution is to put a transformer power track on the inside loop (MTH calls it a lock-on). You can run the wires from the outside loop lock-on.

Do you have a multi-meter? You will need one to play with electric trains. Harbor Freight has them for less than $15.

The plan for now will be to get another lock on for loop 2 and wire it directly from the transformer.  

For my own educational benefit what would happen if the two loops were placed on separate transformers.  I have done electrical diagramming in 20 years and that was for a physics class so I'm curious.  I presume  it would be safe until a car crossed the switch and connected the loops which would cause a potentially catastrophic overload.

As suggested, a second realtrax power lockon would be good for the second loop.  Also as Moonman/Carl mentioned the RTrx switches have an isolated non-powered section to assist w/ the non-derailing feature.  If I remember correctly, when you connect two Rtrx switches directly to one another, you might have to run a jumper wire from one turnouts screw terminal to the other switch terminal.  I can't remember which one, but the info might be included w/ the Rtrax wiring instructions or the online manual.

You will likely have to verify that the transformers are "in phase" when using two separate transformers that connect w/i a track run.

hey,

There you go - idea from Keystone -

Remove the terminal screw cover from both switches - the center screw is common or ACG (ground) - make a jumper wire between the two switches from the center terminal to the center terminal - this will provide common to inside loop - hot should pass through the center rail

Turn on the transformer and observe if the light for the inside loop switch illuminates - if yes - you are good to go - replace the covers - if no - make a jumper wire from one of the terminals with the track power jumper to the same on the other switch to transfer AC Hot

Two transformer operation - yes, you are correct that there is a possibility of bridging the two transformers or adding the voltage and amperage of the two when crossing over - this occurs when the difference between the voltage of the two transformers is to large. It's not a good idea to ask a child to monitor that to prevent cooking the electronics in the engines or lighted cars.

I had an O54 switch manual on file for you to review the connections on pages 4-6.

Tested after following moonman 's directions and black to black connection have us power to both loops.  Whether i keep this as the fix or not permanently is TBD but we are running for now.

Thanks for posting the work-around. Now, you can run trains and not have to be concerned about bridging transformers.

yes, the 2nd lock-on will do the same thing, but you didn't have to go to store.

Have Fun!

Realized I had a whole second transformer set up...yeah don't let them tell you 5 years in college doesn't pay off.

Anyway I used the second lock on in the second loop and currently we are running ok.

The gantry crane is not functioning but I can sort that out tomorrow.

Here is a snapshot of the layout.  I have one more switch and we are debating where to put it to create a spur for the gantry crane.

Well I spoke too soon...the switch is still acting up.  Intermittently it works fine but as soon as my son tried it today it went sideways.

I am attaching a picture of the switch..there appears to be a short as it cannot be switched when powered up.  I even try to do it manually and it resists and pulls all the voltage until I release the switch.

That's not fun. I found from messing with those switches that I had to manually place it (no power) in the through position, remove the motor, then, reseat it carefully.

We also had problems with the magnet coming off of the end of the motor shaft and jamming the mechanism. So, check for a silver dot in the end of the motor shaft. If it's not there, it's in a switch. I super glued them back in.

If it's not a mechanical issue, you, then need to explore an electrical problem. These switches require a good momentary jolt of amperage (current) to fire as they are a coil. Operating them on track power with an engine and lighted cars may be creating a limited current condition.

Try the switch with all cars and the engine off the track and power up at running position. If it works, you'll have to wire the switches to the Accessory posts on the controller and remove the track power jumper.

Since it only appears to be one switch, I would suspect a mechanical issue. Read the manual on the changing the motor side procedure ( to get the method of installing), check the magnet, and reinstall the motor and test. It should turn smoothly by turning the lantern.

By the way, which transformer do you have? A 500, 750, or 1000?

I worked on restoring a 14 year old layout with 250' of RealTrax and 22 switches. (see Eagle Scout project) RealTrax has it's own nuances , but it's reliable and works once you learn the system.

Both sets have the z1000 setup... and honestly I should say all 3 as the lady I bought set #2 from also had another set identical to set #1 so I bought that one also to set up at our inlaws house.  I got both sets 2 and 3 for 180 total each one missing a car but otherwise essentially new in box.

I was able to reset the switch last night by removing and reinstalling the manual switch box..I will try that tonight as it may be the box.

That's a real nice transformer. It has the accessory posts right on the brick. You don't need the controller to use it for accessories. In your case, one transformer should be sufficient to run all the lighted cars and still have enough current to fire the switch. So, track power is ok for now.

Let me know what you find out with the switch motor.

That's the other possibility - the switch controller has an issue. If so, you can put each pair of the crossover switches on one controller with some jumper wires. They should work in pairs anyway.

I checked the switch and found a piece of wire attached to one of the hot tracks from when I was texting it out.  Took that off and it seems ok for now.

It's nice when it's something simple!

Will 6' x 10" fit on the floor?

You need about 8 pieces of additional track - smalls and 1/2 O31 curves.

Ten feet may be too much...each time I tried to make a larger loop or rectangle it ended up as a square more or less...the layout in my pic is about as much as I can realistically go and allow room to walk around the outside.

Now at my inlaws house he will be getting another Railking RTR set for his birthday in a few weeks and that will have the basic 031 loop to start with.  I have acquired a fair bit of long straight and more 031 curve from Grahams Trains so the layout you posted may work perfectly there.  They have a table already in the basement which will have much more length to play with.

On a side note..which software are you using?  I tried the Railware that came in one of the sets but it is from 2007 and was not user friendly to say the least.

Moonman is using SCARM as do many others on this forum. There's a free version and an extended pay version. The free version will get you through many situations; I believe there is a limit on the total amount of track that can be placed.

Thanks..I had seen that acronym on here before and suspected it was a fav.

I was disappointed in the mth software...seems like with realtrax they could make it a bit  more of a drop and drag system for beginners.

Mitch's Dad posted:

Ten feet may be too much...each time I tried to make a larger loop or rectangle it ended up as a square more or less...the layout in my pic is about as much as I can realistically go and allow room to walk around the outside.

Now at my inlaws house he will be getting another Railking RTR set for his birthday in a few weeks and that will have the basic 031 loop to start with.  I have acquired a fair bit of long straight and more 031 curve from Grahams Trains so the layout you posted may work perfectly there.  They have a table already in the basement which will have much more length to play with.

On a side note..which software are you using?  I tried the Railware that came in one of the sets but it is from 2007 and was not user friendly to say the least.

I was thinking about it being a floor layout, so, I was I hoping the track would go around the outside with plenty of stepping space in the middle. It will get stepped on, no matter where it is or the shape.

I was trying to find something different using the switches that you have.

Yes, I use SCARM. (use the download section, not the big buttons) It's Windows only. The free version permits 100 objects, which can be anything, or, just 100 pieces of track. You can drag and drop pieces from the library that's open, but, then it takes a few more steps to do things.

I appreciate the layout....I like the longer lines it affords as my son has taken to using his passenger cars more and long and slow works better with those.

I will have to try out SCARM as I need something to learn the ropes when it comes to working the curves etc.  I only have one switch left so I may have to reshape this layout to free some up or buy some more for the inlaws.  I was able to get these all on trainz for far better then new prices and I have my eyes open for some more to add to the other set.

So we scrapped the side by side loops and have created some longer lines for his passenger cars.  We went back to an asymmetric setup and extended it under his bed to give it more length.  Unintended side effect is a really nice look of the lights as it goes under the dark bed.

I plan to use the switches in some way through the middle but spent last night repairing and cleaning some new acquisitions..a Soo diesel that needed a new front truck and a UP diesel he bought with his birthday money at a train show this weekend.

I bought  right and left o 31 switches so we will see what we can do.

Floor layouts can be rewarding to those that tire of track plan. I recall a Dr. Faub on the west coast that runs his very collectible standard gauge on floor layouts.

He stated that his reason was that he liked like to change the track plan. Classic running from the 20's.

The O31 switches will be nice for a passing siding or a good run through for the gantry crane. See attached.

Speaking of gantry cranes...ours suddenly stopped working.  Gotta get the model number for it and post on here about how to sort it out.