Fastrack 036 issue

Depending on where you bought it you may be able to exchange it,larger dealers like Charles Ro usually allow exchanges on less expensive items within the first year.What happens if you throw it manually? Will it the return via the control? Here is some info I posted on another fastrack thread regarding a switch I had that wouldn't work:

Remove the bottom cover and check the operation of the(black) micro-switches at either end of the switch mechanism's travel.I had the same problem, the switch mechanism was not closing the micro switch completely on one side and the train wheels were activating the non -derail feature, causing sparks because the switch did not "know" the it was already thrown in the correct direction with the micro-switch not being activated. To test the micro switches, manually throw the switch in either direction with the lantern,at the end of travel in each direction watch the micro-switch and listen for the "click" telling you its closing correctly, if theres no "click" its not correctly completing the circuit. I fixed this problem by simply adding a small piece of tape to the side of the switch mechanism where it contacts the micro switch, this enabled the switch mechanism to close the micro-switch fully by acting as a bit of a shim. The switch has never been a problem since.Additionally I and a few others have had a fastrack switch "jamm". I found that the switch motor was not snugged completely allowing the gear to ride up out of the rack, jamming it at the end of the switch mechansim, tightened the motor screws, problem solved. Hope my directions aren't too confusing, they will make more since when looking at the bottom of the switch with the cover off. Its always easier to exchange something if you can, but for me the worst part of opening these switches up is removing the dozen or so small phillips screws from the bottom, the mechanical part is fairly simple.

The microswitches have been the most troublesome aspect of Fastrack switches for me, so they'd be the first thing I'd check.  I think Rick is probably right as a first step for sure.

So it will work in one direction but not the other? If so, this is what I experienced. In my case as I stated about the train crossing the turnout made it chatter because the turnout was activating the "non derail" feature as a result of the "micro switch" not having been activated.The turnout was already thrown in the correct direction so a chatter could be heard as it tried to turn the "already turned" points.

Out of 14 Fastrack switches, I've had to adjust the microswitch in three of them.  One was a brand new one, the other two were used, so that might be excused.

Do you have the switch connected to the first position of an SC2?  The switches will chatter when connected to that position.  There is a warning in either the SC2 or FasTrack switch manual to not connect a FasTrack switch to the #1 position on an SC2.

Earl

It's easy to fix the SC-2, just cut the trace that is visible that runs to the ground of the first position.  I have six Fastrack switches running on an SC-2, works great.

I just started experiencing the exact issue with one of my RealTrax switches(042).  After removing the bottom cover I notice the switch motor was not moving all the way to one side.  Even though it looked like the micro switch had been activated.  Sometime it would work but eventually as a train passed over the switch it would automatically go back to straight ahead and derail the next several cars. I'm still trying to figure out a way to repair this.  I have two switches setup as a crossover and if I try to move the switch by twisting the light on top I get the chattering and it does not want to go to the curved position.   This is with no cars on the switch so I know it is internal to the switch somehow.  Any ideas would be appreciated.  

Hello all,

I have encountered this problem and sought out the threads on OGR for help. My switches are new but old stock. I followed RickO's and gunrunnerjohn's suggestions and found that my problem was self-inflicted. Please add this solution to the list of remedies in the future: Between over tightening the screws on the bottom of the switch and fastening the screws to the layout (with a thin layered gray carpeted surface) I caused the bottom of the switch plate to warp against (causing interference) the inside sliding mechanism causing the electrical "chatter" mentioned in this thread, thus binding the mechanism. To verify this was the problem I started to intentionally over tightening the screws making the problem resurface. By the way my switches were 072 tubular.

Thanks Guys!

-Ferrmoex