Fastrack Operating / uncoupling Track

Looking at the manual, it seems that the four control wires are just female spade connectors. So you disconnect the four spade connectors from the track which then allows you to route the cables through a hole or what have you.

https://www.lionelsupport.com/...315712054250Oper.pdf

And, if you need to lengthen the wires, just cut 4 about equal pieces of wire of the appropriate length you need; color code them so you don't get them mixed up; and attach an appropriately sized male spade connector at one end and an appropriately sized female at the other end and then connect them up.   

I believe at least two of the connectors are the .110 sized ones - not sure if the other two are the same.

Thanks guys.... the spade connectors under the track are all secured with silicone ( or something like silicone ).  I am sure this is because of the high frequency ( shaking ) when activated.  Would you suggest using a big box silicone product when you reconnect the spades ?   I had looked at this option but did not want to disturb the detailed work to secure the spades.

@JonMichael, if you are talking about the covering/coating on the ends like this, it is heat shrink and serves to insulate the outer shell of the spade connector. You don't remove this coating/covering to remove or install the spade connector. The spade connectors themselves are only friction fit to the terminals on the track section.

Kind of hard to see ( because it is clear ), but follow the black wire from the lead in to the blue spade connector.  You will see the black wire leading to the blue space is held in place by two globs ( technical term ) of clear silicone.... once as it passes the flange on the left side of the lower picture ( moving upwards  ) and at the top of the first picture just before the next flange as it holds the blue spade connector in place to the FT itself ( at the 90 degree turn ).

Hope this picture helps.   I may be over thinking this process and rip the bandaid off ( so to speak ) or in this case, rip the black wire leading to the blue spade out of the silicone and just apply some new silicone when I reattach.

Thoughts ?

@JonMichael posted:

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Only idea I currently have is to cut the wire and spice under the table with a terminal block ( using 4 strand telephone wire if I need extra length ).

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Another way to look at it is to ask what is the least expensive alternative.  I'd say it would be to splice the 4-wires and use 8 wire-nuts to extend the 4-wire bundle.  You ought to be able to buy twist wire-nuts individually for maybe 15 cents each at Ace Hardware of Do It Best type local hardware stores...or a 10-pack or whatever at a Home Depot Lowes type big-box hardware store.

If you don't have a wire-cutter/stripper, you'd need a Leatherman or similar "multi-tool."

A few additional comments and suggestions:

The clear "gobs" of stuff are just hot glue and can be easily pried loose with a small flat blade, first from the grey plastic underside of the roadbed and then carefully removed by hand from the wires.

Before removing the 4 spade connectors from the terminals, I use red, black, blue and green Sharpie to mark their original locations (a picture works too). As previously mentioned, this will allow you to feed these female spade connectors with the wires intact through holes in your bench from the remote switch location to underneath the Operating Track section.

If there's not enough wire and you need to splice, I strongly recommend using 18gauge wire minimum (not telephone wire) because these wires carry about 2 amps of current when powered by the recommended 12-14 volt AC source.

Steve.... thanks much.... that gives me a comfort level to move forward.  I will be picking up a hot glue gun and trying to secure the wires after making the relocation.   Good tips....

FWIW, I'd don't re-glue the wires back in place.  The glue is put there at the factory as strain relief, I suspect mostly for people who use these accessories on a floor or other temporary layout to prevent pulling the connectors off the terminals.

When Operating Track is installed in a permanent layout and the wires are secured underneath the table, it really isn't necessary, in my opinion.  Also trying to hot glue the wires in place at a distance a few feet away from the table edge, may not be a lot of fun.

I never touch the wires under items like Operating Track or the controller.  If I need to lengthen the wire to run from the device, under my table, and to my control panel area, I simply mark the wires left to right in the center of the wire set, cut the leads in half, run under the table, wire in the extra length I need, and the job is done.  Have done it this way many times with excellent results.

Ron