First Weathering Job-PRR L1

Nice job. Looks very accurate.

Great job!  I like how it turned out. 

John

Your dry brush method looks just as good as airbrush Jared.

Nice work.

John

Really great work! Very realistic. Not over- or under- done.

All dry brushing? You gave me confidence to give it a go. I'm a novice and was hoping i could safely get good results with only dry brushing. Starting with a dark green (Jersey Central) diesel.

You did a terrific job!!  Your L1 looks great!

@CNJ Jim posted:

Really great work! Very realistic. Not over- or under- done.

All dry brushing? You gave me confidence to give it a go. I'm a novice and was hoping i could safely get good results with only dry brushing. Starting with a dark green (Jersey Central) diesel.

Yep I used very soft brushes. The trick is to remove as much paint from the brush as possible. I used paper towels to remove the paint until only a hint of color would come off. Then dabbed the bristles against the train while blending it together working one section at a time, but working fast. Less is better. I used two different main brushes. One did the initial application followed by a "clean" brush to help blend it together.

@Stinky1 Jared, I guess I lead a sheltered life... I knew Badger made airbrushes but never knew they made their own paint.

Can you explain a little this dry brush technique? Is it just brushing on the paint with very little paint on the brush? If yes, are you saying you painted the whole locomotive and you had no problems with brush marks? Thanks if you can elaborate a little.

Very nicely done.

Tom

Wow! Impressive work.

@PRR8976 posted:

@Stinky1 Jared, I guess I lead a sheltered life... I knew Badger made airbrushes but never knew they made their own paint.

Can you explain a little this dry brush technique? Is it just brushing on the paint with very little paint on the brush? If yes, are you saying you painted the whole locomotive and you had no problems with brush marks? Thanks if you can elaborate a little.

Very nicely done.

Tom

I dip the end of the bristles into the paint, then painted off the excess on a few layers of paper. Then removed more excess on paper towels. Get all sides of the brush. Then tap the brush against the locomotive to apply the paint. You can dab it, brush it, and swirl it all around. You might have brush strokes at first, but you need to keep blending it in. Try not to brush it on, but push it on and use some pressure. I then used a second brush for blending, making firm strokes and work fast. I damaged my main brush because I was hard on it. Threw it away. The bristles were all flared out after the project.  You want a very thin base. You're not actually painting. You can dip it in alcohol and let it dry almost completely, and there will still be enough on the brush to make downward streaks like water washing away grime around cylinders and valves. Practice on something cheap first like an old freight car.  And yes, you are wasting a lot of paint doing it this way.

@Stinky1 posted:

I decided to try and weather my Lionel L1 Pennsylvania locomotive. This was one that had the wrong shade of green. I don't have an airbrush, so this was done in the "dry" brush method. I had some previous experience with weathering a water tower, and a fire lookout tower for my layout.

I used Badger "Weathered Black" to apply the first coat all over the locomotive. I used Model Power "Chocolate Brown" to apply the dirt color around the bottom part of the engine. This is supposed to represent dirt rather than rust. The tiniest amount of white to represent water/mineral deposits around valves and such. It's basically complete. I just need to touch up around the cab and such, then apply a coat of dullcote to protect it.

I used several color photos of actual L1s as references.

I think it turned out better than expected. I probably won't do another engine, at least for a while.

@Stinky1

That is a GREAT weathering job! Continue your fine work and join us on our weekly Weathering Wednesday thread. Your work is worthy of sharing. We also exchange ideas and learn new techniques from each other.

Here is a link to last week's edition. https://ogrforum.com/topic/new...5#192886123257186535

Some close ups of blending two colors and top of tender.

@Stinky1 Jared, Thanks for all of the detail. Very much appreciated.

For your excellent results, a little waste is worthwhile!

How would you rate the Badger paints (are they water based?) with Floquil, etc.?

Tom

@PRR8976 posted:

@Stinky1 Jared, Thanks for all of the detail. Very much appreciated.

For your excellent results, a little waste is worthwhile!

How would you rate the Badger paints (are they water based?) with Floquil, etc.?

Tom

I like them. They are water based, so they can be removed with alcohol, and I like the viscosity. They are pretty thin, but they won't run all over either. I don't like their Pennsy green though. I bought a bottle for touch-ups. Still much too green. I ended up mixing more black into it.

You did a great job.  The engine looks like it's been worked hard it's entire life.

@Stinky1 posted:

I like them. They are water based, so they can be removed with alcohol, and I like the viscosity. They are pretty thin, but they won't run all over either. I don't like their Pennsy green though. I bought a bottle for touch-ups. Still much too green. I ended up mixing more black into it.

I think I've heard before that the Green used was DGLE (Dark Green Locomotive Enamel)...and that in reality, it often looked black once the soot of the stack took over, out in service. So, maybe it looked green for a few days after it first came out of Juniata!

You should be happy how it turned out.

Tom