Hey guys, what is the trick to remove the pin from the truck to replace a missing link coupler?
Or should I just replace the whole truck?
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There is a 2 piece tool set for this. A hollow steel tube for driving the old coupler pin out and a hard steel tool with a center drilled hole to flare the new coupler pin into the coupler bracket. PortLines among others sells them.
Thanks Tom. Just the info I needed.
I picked up a number of cars in great condition (except for a few broken couplers), a transformer and track at a professionally held estate sale today. All was thrown in a musty smelling box. I was about to dump it until I saw the label on it - it is an original set box.
All for, get this, $10
Hi John,
Tom gave you some good advise. Replacing the link coupler isn't all that hard to do. There's also a knuckle conversion that can replace a link coupler if that's you want. They work fine, but extend farther than the link ones, and make a larger gap between the cars. But if properly adjusted, the link couplers are just as reliable as any knuckle ones. If you need any more help with the trains, let us know. BTW, do you have any photos to share? Be careful though. My friend who is very into Lionel also acquired a few Flyer items, and he now has a LOT more! 
i would guess ,that same would work for the af prewar 3/16 link couplers as well??
I have the kits and they work sometimes. I use the knuckle couplers on all my trains so I change the couplers out a fair amount. Sometimes the pins fall out and sometimes they were pressed in so hard I couldn't get them to fall out. I used a cutting wheel on a variable speed dermel tool to cut the long side off and then use a long punch to tap the pressed in end out.
