G gauge transformer

I believe that the LGB would need DC power? Most regular G scale engines use DC. If they have been swapped to command, or are MTH that would be different.

BTW, you probably could still use the Lionel AC power if you added a full bridge rectifier big enough to handle the amps, connected to it. I'm not sure which model you have.

Tom, no need to spend a lot of money on expensive DC Transformers, I use cheap Computer Power Supply's.  They still need some kind of throttle but those can be found cheap.  Ping me if you want more info.

Chris Sheldon

OR...you can go BPRC.  Tony Walsham of RCS Australia has everything you need:

https://www.rcs-rc.com/

I actually have a Bluerail BlueHorse board in my G scale Bachmann 4-6-0 using a 12v battery and it runs great.

Before converting to BPRC I used an old Aristocraft Train Engineer system to power the track with an old laptop power supply providing power.

The problem with LGB digital systems such as DCC, MTS, MFX, etc are compatibility issues with OTHER systems made by Piko, Massoth, Zima and others! Definitely get some informed dealer advice before purchasing a non-LGB digital control system! Of course, completely modifying your engine to a specific non-LGB digital system is always an option as described above! GOOD LUCK! :-)

Have you resolved your power/control issue?

Tinplate Art posted:

Have you resolved your power/control issue?

Not in life, and not on the track.

I'll probably just get an LGB  to avoid the headache.

Just run a postwar transformer's output through a bridge rectifier. Simple and cheap.

When I was running G gauge I used this transformer, worked great, has built in meters and they're reasonable.

MR_P posted:

When I was running G gauge I used this transformer, worked great, has built in meters and they're reasonable.

I use the same one for my G Gauge!  That or any of the Spectrum Magnums work great with my LGB or Bachmann G.  DC power, and can be found at good prices.  In fact, any good DC power pack will be perfect for LGB.

LGB has a disclaimer stating that their trains should be run using an LGB transformer. Other manufacturers have the same disclaimer.  The only real issue, that I know of, are Aristocraft transformers.  They use PWM (Pulse Width Modulation).  It can overheat LGB motors.  

When I was running my garden railway on track power I used three or four LGB high power transformers with separate throttles.  50111/51070 combinations.  When I started in large scale I had an Aristo transformer, 10 AMP with throttle.  As I purchased more LGB locos I noticed the buzzing noise coming from the locos, so I switched to the LGB transformers mentioned.  

You can use a lionel ZW, a couple of metal can  5 Ampere  bridge rectifiers and a switch panel to reverse the dc connections and run 4 g scale trains off of one ZW. I did it. Each ZW output i believe is good for about 2.5 Amps which is enough for many of the single motor locos. Must take care with this arrangement of the switches not incorrectly being thrown. Use large toggles (less likely to be switched).  Cheapest set-up out there. 

Wow, thread back to life after 14 months!  Good info Jim.

I thought the topic looked familiar.

Chris S.

This was discussed in  the Electrical forum also were I showed my solution:

https://ogrforum.com/...19#77734316000252819

Regards

Fred

When I discovered (with info gleaned from this forum, and confirmed by a call to MRC!) that the MRC Power G I had been using did NOT have a regulated smooth DC output, I replaced it with a Vellamon DC lab switchable mode quality 3 amp power supply with a variable voltage output from 0-30 volts. I added a Piko 5 amp electronic controller (Fahrreglar) which has a large control knob which allows reversing the polarity. This control employs NO pulse width modulation, confirmed by a call to PIKO. The DC power supply has a very low ripple output, and a compact footprint. My LGB now runs smoothly even at low voltages. There are certainly many different and less costly solutions to operate LGB locos, but after doing some research, I chose mine, and I am satisfied with the results!

NOTE: I chose the PIKO controller over a similar one offered by LGB, solely on the basis of the easy to use spring connectors on the PIKO unit. The LGB only had a barrel-type connection to mate with their own 5 amp switchable mode power supply.