New deliveries plus 'road testing'.
UP 4-12-2 and UP 4-6-6-4 early challenger.
These are the brass hybrids by BLI.
First time I've seen a white box for BLI.
BLI's new 'sleeve' type container.
The usual 'clam shell' packaging.
UP 4-12-2 on the programming track.
Don't have Paragon 4 in my software but the P3 works.
Nicely detailed. Only the headlight functions. The marker lights and number boards are 'static'.
The 2 center drivers are blind. Not prototype but needed to negotiate sharper radii.
Full cab detail including crew and lighted. Deck plate with 'near scale' distance between engine and tender.
Smoking stack but no smoking whistle; guessing BLI left that out since the whistle is just forward of the cab and would be too difficult to install a motor and heating element in that area.
Somehow I accumulated 5 of these! I wanted the first one made (far right) as it has a gray boiler (yet to be painted!).
The others were purchased due to good prices!
From right to left:
Sunset: made in 1978.
BLI: 2022
Key: 1984, I painted.
Tenshodo: 1995, Factory painted.
Key: 1984, Factory painted.
Surprised: the BLI has 'see through' walk boards. An unusual item.
The Key model also has 'see through' walk boards.
The Key and Tenshodo models have working Greasley valve to operate the 3 cylinders that these engines had. There is a cam on one of the drivers that moves the Greasley valve. Each side rotates forward and backwards.
The Key model has functioning sand hatches....
as well as tender water hatches.
Engine 'down loaded' into the roster.
UP 4-6-6-4 early challenger.
Programming track to upload the new engine address.
This hybrid has the smoking whistle as well as the smoke stack. The whistle uses the same smoke chamber but has it's own motor. Number boards are lighted but not the marker lights.
Another nicely detailed engine.
All BLI articulateds have the un-prototypical articulated back set of drivers but it is not noticeable on large radii.
All BLI engines come with the tender attached to the engine but they can be disassembled.
I'm guessing they made the boxes long for those who take their engines to club layouts so it's less likely to damage the wire connector between the engine and tender since, now, the two parts can be transported as 'one'.
No 'see through' walk boards but the 'high recesses' make it appear so.
Roster of UP challengers.
Right to Left:
Tenshodo: made in 1973, factory painted.
BLI early challenger 2022
BLI: late challenger 2019. All metal casting with lighted marker lights, number boards and smoking whistle.
KEY, 1984, Factory painted.
The BLI (2nd from the right) has the boiler jacket 'stays'. They are a little over sized compared to the Key model (far left).
Again, Key has functioning sand hatches, access doors...
and turret hatches with internal details.
UP had the first challenger but NP perfected them.
From right to left:
GN Z-6, 1975, Tenshodo, factory painted
GN Z-6, 1975, Tenshodo, factory painted
SP&S Z-8, 1981, Key, I painted
NP Z-8, 2013, Sunset, Factory painted
D&RGW L-105, 1984, Key, factory painted.
....
I almost forgot one more; NP Z-8 by Key, 1981 that I painted with a gray boiler although it's doubtful the Z-8 was ever painted with a gray boiler!
Same with the GN Z-6: doubtful the Z-6 was painted in Glacier colors.
The smoke box door opens on the D&RGW L-105.
ACL (Atlantic Coast Line) 4-8-4 'road test'.
Recently assembled and needed to be tested.
Video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ex9H0hX7OzY&t=5s
Coupler was too low so back of coupler pocket raised plus a brass washer put on the back truck bolster.
Elongated the front truck support so it wasn't too close to the drivers.
Almost forgot to insulate the deck plate!
Unusual paint scheme with no black appliances and gray tender.
Near scale spacing between boiler and tender.
Coupler height, finally, correct.
RF&P 4-8-4 'road test'.
Didn't get far on the 'road test' as the marker lights were not working. Had to replace the LED's as the old ones were contacting the metal casing.
Kept a low voltage on the LED's while 'gluing' the LED's in the marker lights to insure no 'shorts'.
Some canopy glue to secure the LED's.
Universal needed 'tweaking'.
Had to put a tube over the flexible tubing to keep a 'straight' alignment.
New LED lighting on the ceiling. Put a strip of electrical tape down the center of the light to reduce the 'lumens'.
Only did the left side and seems to work well.
Used 220 sandpaper to 'scuff' the top of the rails where the grade exceeds the usual 0.5%.