Great Northern railway

Ross Club weekly Tuesday night meeting:

Videos:

UP 4-6-6-4 freight:

Most of the 'state of Maine' potato cars are by TM where I had to go to different hobby shops in Cleveland back in the 70's as each hobby shop only had 2 of them!

Skykomish:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6p7O_UplwQs

Marias pass:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AUdoNJIQCYY

Departing Havre:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8-MLr2yoENo

Willmar:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5l3GuxDDUVM

Tye:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kQVK2pWUwuQ

NP A-3 4-8-4 Gray boiler freight:

Departing Seattle:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=smKCBAwqT1E

Marias pass:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UNhsryvwYhg

Departing Hillyard:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p7rqLYy8r8E

Willmar:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=okW2DoqhPOY

Hillyard:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eKOiEBfTbC0

Nick operating the NP A-3 4-8-4 at Seattle.

Mark operating the UP 4-6-6-4 at Seattle.

Joe dispatching.

Entering Cascade tunnel.

NP A-3 4-8-4 at Skykomish.

UP 4-6-6-4 at Tye.

Havre.

NP A-3 4-8-4 at Hillyard's functioning water tower.

Tumwater canyon trestle.

Willmar.

Waverly.

Waverly meet.

Willmar.

UP 4-6-6-4 on Seattle's incoming track.

Ditto for the NP A-3 4-8-4.

Seattle's engine facilities:

A lot of Revell's buildings plus the coaling tower from an MR article that I made as a 'youngun'!

St. Paul.

Ross club weekly Tuesday night meeting;

Videos:

Cory's diesel w/freight.

Seattle:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v8gmMhJ8Q-0

Tye:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QtpHqM2LFUU

PRR Q-2 4-4-6-4 freight:

13 lights on this engine: headlight (engine/tender), marker lights (engine/tender), 4 running board lights, cab light, tender dog house light and fire box glow.

Marias pass:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UyupX1B4wIQ

Departing Hillyard:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UVpSlG4bPB8

Chumstick canyon trestle:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YDH2Xz3CIKw

Cory's diesel.

Hillyard.

Chumstick canyon trestle.

Mark brought some 'open load' flats.

Nick operating the PRR Q-2 4-4-6-4.

Hillyard.

Willmar.

Nick 'switching' the freight at Seattle with a GN C-1 0-8-0.

Seattle's facilities.

and Joe.

New delivery.

Lehigh Valley stream lined John Wilkes steam engine.

This was custom painted 'brass hybrid' by BLI for Trainworld.

I like this black and red paint scheme.

There are 3 versions of this engine.

One is a rare brass version that is around 1300 bucks which is too 'rich for me' for such a small engine.

The 2nd is by Rivarossi which is around 700 bucks which, again, is too 'rich for me' for a plastic engine that has pizza size flanges!

My third option was this painting of a BLI's 4-6-4 SF blue goose.

I thought they were going to use the BLI New Haven 4-6-4  but, obviously, I was mistaken as I thought it was a closer rendition of the engine.

The LV is suppose to be a 4-6-2 but the BLI is a 4-6-4.

It 'is what it is'.  A little disappointed in the engine used but the paint scheme is excellent.

At least it will pull well with plenty of weight and traction tires (plus it has smoke) versus the other 2 versions of this engines.

Video: yard test:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V-MfG4PXMhY

Environmentally friendly packing material.

(I remember back in the 60's/70's when 'they' recommended using plastic as much as possible to save the 'trees'!

Usual well packed and protected engine.

Plenty of cab detail with crew.

Traction tires on the back drivers.

After testing the engine on address 3 I 're-did' all the data on the 'programming track'.

Saved in the roster.

Throttle mode to check the engine.

Nicely painted.  A lot of work doing all that striping'

Lighted number boards.

Other side.

The BLI SF 'Blue Goose' that I acquired last year that BLI used for the LV engine.

I think the engine and tender size on the NH engine that BLI made would have been a better 'fit'.

A piece of tubing to secure the 'draw bar' to the tender.

A possibility is to replace the '4 wheel' trailing truck with a '2 wheel' one.

Very nice, engine!

MY NMRA MCR DIV 7 posted a 'preview' of my GNRW.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G7sAqlonHvk

Ross club weekly Tuesday night meeting.

Wasn't expecting anyone since it has rained all day and was raining 'cats and dogs' an hour before any arrivals but Nick and Jerry arrived.  I still testing the railroad 2 hours before any 'arrivals' just 'in case'!

Videos:

LV stream lined John Wilkes freight was 'road tested'.

BLI's functioning 'cow car' is in the train.

The usual mixture of vintage metal Athearn/Varney and wood Silver Streak/Ambroid freight cars.

Marias pass:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3tM5jkkgFPU

Departing Hillyard:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LXH5KYp8jl4

Skykomish:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZBAx8j19o90

B&O E A-B and LV stream lined John Wilkes:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_XSuHF3i-W0

B&O E A-B passenger train:

Chumstick canyon trestle:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BN847WEHWRw

Jerry and Nick.

Nick operating the B&O E A-B passenger train at Marias pass.

Chumstick canyon trestle with logging railroad in the valley.

LV John Wilkes at Waverly.

Hillyard.

Skykomish.

John Wilkes at Seattle's freight yard.

B&O E A-B passenger train bypassing Seattle's freight yard.

A fellow modeler 'strung' together several of my short videos (I need to learn how to do that!).

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3a6vm4t6SnE

Ross club weekly Tuesday night meeting.

A pleasant evening with lots of 'scale' operations; all engines departed from the engine service facilities, picked up their train, obeyed all signals, passed each other on the sidings, stopped for 'water', returned to the engine service facilities and the yard switcher serviced all incoming freight cars.

video:

UP FEF-3 4-8-4 2-tone grey:

Departing Seattle:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_YVfgQWRuSw

Tye:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JG90fKOPtY4

Waverly:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ISD_EBXVb-s

Willmar:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yBe9ZiE2DVs

Glacier:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pf8bNVnQZU0

Entering Seattle's yard throat:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eyR0niFWjDs

C&O H-8 2-6-6-6 freight:

Skykomish:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VF9Mi5SRzbI

Glacier:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oBmsculFhkQ

Seattle:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kqMLSJe6AtM

C&O H-8 2-6-6-6 and UP 4-12-2:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MONa0P3dv6w

UP 4-12-2 and C&O H-8 2-6-6-6:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ANQ7uoSlP28

GN C-1 0-8-0 switcher at Seattle:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I28QeCnxo-M

Nick with the UP FEF-3 4-8-4 2-tone grey that left the engine service facility and going to pick up his train.

Bob operating the UP 4-12-2.

UP FEF-3 stopping at Hillyard's functional water tank.

Mark brought some freight cars to test.

Bob's UP 4-12-2 approaching Hillyard.

UP FEF-3 4-8-4 2-tone grey at Willmar's functioning water tank.

Marias pass.

The mainline that's not under tunnels has a laminated 1/2" X 2" X 8' homosote laid and glued vertically and laminated to form the roadbed for the track.  This was done to get 'natural flowing' curves on the mainline.

UP 4-12-2 at Willmar's water tank.

'Talked' to the crew for a few minutes while taking on 'water'.

Seattle's GN C-1 0-8-0 yard switcher.

Joe dispatching and...

he brought some of his 'glow' rocks that he collects.

Incoming track at Seattle.

Seattle viewed from the 'access hatch'.

The new turnout added to lead to the new passenger yard that was added several years ago.

Road that 'skirts' the Seattle's freight yard.

Looks like another great evening of fun!!

Springfield, Ohio train show, April 14.

Miles: 60

3 buildings.

1st building.

Mark a new passenger went with Joe and I (versus me and Joe!)

I haven't seen too many Lionel 'Western sets'.

Gary and I met back in the mid 70's at a Cleveland train show.

They make nice N gauge sets.

Some uses for spikes!

3-rail test stand.

Some nice S gauge cars.

'Way back' in original boxes.

Brings back some memories.

Was tempted to buy one; suppose to be a soldering pad.

O gauge 2 rail.

John purchasing a few more freight cars.

Interesting.

I've got 14 of the Milwaukee cars: very nice with the 'port hole' windows.

I've got a 10 car set of the PRR cars but by MTH; both are very nicely done.

This guy always has lots of S gauge.

1st time I've seen these.

Joe from Dayton.

Some nicely detailed plastic buildings.

Yup; still selling sawdust 'grass'!

Nice Lionel bridge.

Dave from Middletown.

Repro's from the 30's but cool.

Center 2nd building.

HO gauge.

Been going to this show since 1980 and these guys have 'set up' every year (spring and fall).

More memories.

3rd building.

Nice HO sets.

N gauge.

G gauge.

HO and HON30 gauge.

'Way back' we used to use these to make 'go carts'.

Didn't ask if this came off of an engine!

Nice wood buildings.

Can't beat 25 bucks for a tall building!

Bob from Lebanon.

Repro's can be custom made.

Lebanon, Ohio.

Xenia, Ohio.

Parking lot at the train show.

That’s a very nice train show!!

NMRA MCR DIV 7 monthly meeting.

The usual large crowd.

Several awards 'handed out' for last year 2023.

Some of the 'zoom' group.

Contest table.

Feature presentation:

Joe taking a 'power nap'!

The usual 2 layout visits after the meeting.

Ed's layout.

Trash in the barrel.

Pat's layout.

Helix.

Staging.

Wow!  Both are really nice layouts!  

I’m with Joe!  I was at the MCR Div. 2 Jamboree in Monroeville, Pa on Saturday and must confess I dozed off during one of the clinics!  🤷‍♂️

Ross club weekly Tuesday night meeting:

Videos:

SP AC-4 4-8-8-2 passenger train:

Marias Pass:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k5k4bR4pEiM

Bypassing Seattle's freight yard:

many of the cars are 'articulated'.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pIce05xb9T4

NH EP-5 electric with Mark's new freight cars from the train show.

Chumstick canyon trestle:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TPM5NFq_yB0

UP Big Boy 4-8-8-4 freight:

Tye: has functioning smoking whistle.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yvLuLrz0SI8

Waverly:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X-0THuXcQvI

Willmar:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=242z66cjZbA

Marias pass:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AUtVBAXFPZo

Cory's diesels:

Tye:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tA4MhdpJIRs

Chumstick canyon trestle:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kN9Zzy2tWzc

SP AC-4 4-8-8-2 and UP Big Boy 4-8-8-4 at Glacier:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0CrwFXCBMss

Cory's diesels and UP Big Boy 4-8-8-4 at Waverly:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RmqZS8b32tE&t=1s

Joe, Jerry, Cory, Mark and Cory's dad Larry.

UP Big Boy at Skykomish.

Cory's diesels.

Cory's diesels at Skykomish.

NH EP-5 electric at Waverly.

Marias pass.

Waverly.

UP Big Boy taking water at Willmar.

Mark and Nick.

Havre.

Chumstick canyon.

NH EP-5 electric at Seattle.

engine has functioning remote operating pantographs.

Mark and Cory.

Tye.

Cary, Mark and Nick and Jerry.

Tye.

Virginian EL-2A electrics (3 units): prep and painting.

I believe I bought these last year.

They were made by Alco models in 1978.

If it's 'different' I usually acquire it and these are 'different'.

All 3 units are powered.

6 screws held the super structure to the frame.

I drilled out the sides of the marker lights with a modeling drill press where 0402 LED's will be 'used'.

I used a hand drill to drill out the front of the marker lights.

A hole was drilled next to the marker lights to route the wires.

When manually drilling the front of the marker lights on one unit, they became loose so I re-soldered them from the 'inside'.

I used a #60 drill bit which I purchased from Home Depot, online.

They came with can motors.

The front and back trucks are 'different' so I took a picture so I reassemble it 'correctly'.

I take all units apart with the front pointing to the left.

One of the frame supports needed re-soldering.

The drivers were easy to remove but the 'jack shafts' (railroader told me the 'real' name) were pressed on so I left them attached to the frame.

Also, I left the contacts for the driver's insulated side attached to the frame.

I was going to remove them but the manufacturer soldered wires to the screw heads and I thought it best to leave 'as is'.

I'm keeping all frames and super structures together 'just in case'.

Ditto for the parts not being painted, ie. left side (front engine), middle (middle), right side (back).

The center of the drivers are already black so no need to paint them.

Dish washing soap and aluminum pan to clean all parts.

All parts 'air compressor' dried and put in the toaster oven for about 15 minutes to insure all water is 'gone'.

I used some 'mold release' from my RC planes to cover the contacts to the drivers.

Plate glass and masking tape for those areas I don't want covered with paint.

Using green for the interior.  There is no cab detail and I'm not sure if the green will be seen but I plan on putting an LED in the the cab units.

My 50 year old single action Binks 'air brush', paint mask and  safety glasses (new 'eye ball' lenses and don't want any paint dust to get on them!).

gloves and 2 'water' filters; H2O and enamel paint don't 'mix' very well.

Just one coat.  Not worried about 'full coverage' as no one will see the inside roof!

2 hours at 200 degrees in my toaster over.

Masked off areas I don't want black paint to adhere to.

Kept the frames in the same order in relation to the super structures on the toaster oven's tray.

Masked off the inside of the windows.

Not completely 'masked off' but 'good enough' for the interior where most of it won't be seen.

My choice of paint for many decades.

Unfortunately, they went out of business but I have enough 'stock' to finish my remaining engines.

First coat.

I did the frames first to insure I didn't touch the super structures.

I had to hold one end of the super structure by the top light to rest it in the tray but the paint is 'dry enough' that it doesn't 'come off'.

Another 2 hours at 200 degrees.

Getting late so will put the 2nd coat on tomorrow morning.

PRR Aerotrain by Con-Cor.

A railroader from Middletown, Ohio brought his engine as no sound and head light.

First, it went on the programming track and read the decoder to see if all was 'good' and then loaded all the 'data' into the decoder.

After removing the 'shell' and tape, noticed a bare black wire.

Soldered it to the white and fixed the headlight.

Since I use, mostly, TCS decoders it made it 'easier' for diagnostics.

Found the 2 purple wires and one came loose so soldered it back to the speaker but nada on the layout.

Tried another speaker and ditto.

Figure it was the decoder but while removing one of the connectors from the decoder, it came out way too easily so,

reinserted the connector to the decoder and all's good.

Sound was low so we went into the decoder and increased the volume.

Joe and I visited Noah's layout in Middletown, Ohio.

Miles: 20

Noah’s layout looks very nice.

Virginian EL-2A electrics (3 units): prep and painting (CONT).

HAH: was I delusional!

Saw all black and figured painting would be 'easy'.

Actually, the painting was 'easy'; it was all that masking of those stupid windows that took about 4 hours

I started masking all the windows and noticed some pictures of a finished model that the side door windows and back door windows weren't painted yellow so that's why that large piece of tape is over the door.

Lots of work.

Initially, I masked off the front door but realized only the door window gets yellow.

Window masking done.

Remaining parts covered.

Seemed like the appropriate color.

Normally, I 'shoot' yellow' or 'red' as they are terrible at covering other colors but masking the windows last was the easiest solution.

I put the air brush 'on very light spray' and did all the windows 5 times to get 'good coverage'.

One thick 'coat'  never 'works'!

By the time I do the 3rd unit the paint is dry enough on the 1st unit to apply another 'coat'.

With so many protrusions on the surface I'm bound to get some 'overspray'.

Since the black has been baked on and the yellow is still 'soft' a toothpick and some spit removes the 'overspray'.

This 'overspray' required a little more 'elbow grease'.

Ready for 2 hours at 200 degrees in the toaster oven.

Love seeing your work.

GNRW monthly OPS.

After the usual pizza and beverage we operated.

A lot of trains were 'run'.

Videos:

NP Z-5 2-8-8-4 freight.

Nice scale speed and sound.

Departing Seattle:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6U4yTB2_HZ0

Tye:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z1-hmu0Qe_M

Departing Havre:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hta_zYoc6VU

Skykomish:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=78DbVAg8G30

NP A-3 4-8-4 passenger train:

Departing Seattle:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mif51gAEuwU

Havre:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RFh0LnY1xHA

LV John Wilkes streamlined with Ben's newly acquired freight cars:

Willmar:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NM-u66yDnCI

LV John Wilkes and GN N-3 2-8-8-0:

Marias pass:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2Hd32BsnyV4

GN N-3 2-8-8-0, NP Z-5 2-8-8-4 and NP A-3 4-8-4.

Lucked out and got all 3.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PRNjNL7ZgP4

D&RGW L-131 2-8-8-2 Zephyr passenger train:

These stainless steel passenger cars have a real nice patina on them.

Departing Seattle:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p0_-uekXTHU

Tye:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dQNYpIn7i-s

Departing Hillyard:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-mAN_PXBxJY

Willmar:

One of the few times one gets to see all the 'under body' detail on the passenger cars!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R1JzsMKOl7A

Chumstick canyon trestle:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3jDgZAvcFac

N&W J 4-8-4 passenger train:

Departing Havre:

Ben noticed that I forgot to move the baggage car when I reversed the train from the last 'run' and corrected it.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-zVyV0WZ8aM

Waverly:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HwHVVjooywk

GN R-2 2-8-8-2 freight.

Entering Seattle's freight yard incoming track:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ooiK0P9eUWA

N&W J 4-8-4 and D&RGW L-131 2-8-8-2 at Glacier:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=THKH8HItQ80

Joe dispatching.

Ben operating the LV John Wilkes with his new freight cars.

Bob operating the D&RGW L-131 2-8-8-2 freight departing Seattle.

Ben's 'over size' load. Unfortunately, it can't 'fit' through the tunnels!

Paul operating the GN N-3 2-8-8-0 from the round house service area.

D&RGW L-131 2-8-8-2 taking water at Hillyard.

GN N-3 2-8-8-0 ready to 'back down' to it's train.

LV John Wilkes taking water at Willmar among the 5 functional water towers on the RR.

D&RGW L-131 at Havre.

Tumwater canyon.

NP A-3 4-8-4 at Willmar's water tank.

Marias pass.

GN N-3 2-8-8-0 at Havre.

Dave operating the NP A-3 4-8-4 passenger train at Willmar.

The dispatcher's panel, along with the signaling system, makes operating trains a lot easier than the 'old way'!

Dave's NP A-3 4-8-4 passenger train bypassing Seattle's freight yard.

Had to re-rail a freight car at St. Paul.

Fortunately, I had my 'top side' creeper there to make 'life easier'!

Figure I might as well take a few pictures from that 'view point'.

That big crack is not visible from the 'normal viewing' location!

Doing some diagnostics in that area and the switcher is not on the 'drill track'.

Normal viewing angle.

Skykomish.

Dave doing the 'switching' at Seattle's freight yard.

Incoming train at Seattle.

D&RGW L-131 2-8-8-2 at Hillyard's water tower.

Tumwater canyon.

Glasgow.

N&W J 4-8-4 passenger train bypassing Seattle's freight yard.

D&RGW L-131 2-8-8-2 Zephyr passenger train.

Havre.

After, we had apple pie and orange 'creamsicles'.

Pie must of been 'good' as it was 'gone'!

The usual 'discussions' after operating.

Paul brought 2 of his PRR engines.

Ben brought this car which has to be the biggest 'pizza size' flanges that I've ever seen!

Amazingly it ran OK on the layout.

Another fun day operating trains on your fantastic layout!  Ben's oversized load reminds me of our older daughter's fascination with My Little Ponies and I never knew what was going to be on the layout.

The comment about the new way of dispatching was just what I was thinking of the first photograph of Joe sitting there in comfort.

Pie!!!  You can't top it off any better!

Thanks, Mark.

======================

Virginian EL-2A electrics (3 units): Decaling.

I got my decals from Bill on his website:

https://www.greatdecals.com/Byscale.htm

I've got some Microdecals but 'not needed'.

My old bottle of Solvaset lasted about 50 years.

The new bottle should last until I croak!

I cut the corners at 45 degrees to prevent corners from 'folding over'.

Soft tissue laid over decal and lightly patted to remove excess water.

A very soft brush for applying the Solvaset.

Normally, once the Solvaset is applied one does not want to 'play with it'

This brush allows me to remove any 'puddles' that can, sometimes slightly, deform the decal.

I had to apply 4-5 applications of Solvaset to remove all 'air bubbles'.

Have to 'eye ball' from the end to insure the decal is 'straight and level'.

An X-acto knife or pin works to 'puncture' any 'air bubbles'.

One side done.

Took some research to insure 'nomenclature' was correct, ie, 'F' on lead unit, no number on center unit, etc.

Also, used some Scalecoat #10 black to touch up some 'over spray' yellow that I wasn't able to remove.

NOTE:  Mark, we deleted the copyrighted image per OGR TOS.  PLEASE review the TOS and the procedure we require to post such images.  Not following the TOS could result in negative consequences.

That looks like a great job of research and applying decals.

Ross club weekly Tuesday night meeting.

Videos:

UP Veranda turbine and DD40X freight.

Jerry decided to 'double head'.

Departing Seattle:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oXp8ScJuexA

Departing Havre:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1av3tDI3pJE

Willmar:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yF-uAmSFIZI

Glacier:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TvcvPKfQ3Ow

Chumstick canyon trestle:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kkoyAwb6ysY

Marias pass:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BmRKsNOD1Ew

Skykomish:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aolunP4sNAg

NH EP-5 electric with Mark's freight cars:

Leaving Seattle:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mp1w3a0ui3I

Departing Hillyard:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=74WMcywvHMs

Departing Havre:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JcemsoOqmsw

Skykomish:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9gTidAUN7Yw

Mark with his freight cars pulled by a NH EP-5 electric with functioning remote pantographs departing Seattle.

Jerry 'double heading' a UP Veranda turbine and a DD40X.

NH EP-5 at Tumwater canyon trestle.

Tye.

'old faithful'!

Havre.

Seattle.

Swan river logging railroad.

2 engines:

Virginian EL-2A electrics (3 units): painting (CONT) and UP GE #1 streamlined turbine (prep and disassembly).

Virginian EL-2A electrics (3 units)

All painting and decals are complete.

Last is a coat of 'satin finish' to seal the paint and decals.

I like my motive power to look like they only been on the 'road' for a month.

BEFORE' shiny.

Thinned 50%.

AFTER:

Last of 200 degrees for 2 hours in the toaster oven.

Do all my painting in my detached shop: nice to keep all the paint and fumes outside the house!

===============================

UP GE #1 streamlined turbine (prep and disassembly).

A very cool engine.

GE only made 2 of these. UP and GN used them for a very short period of time and they went back to GE and they were scrapped.

Alco models made this engine. I could not find when it was made but guessing in the 70's.

I was hoping the disassembly would be easy but nada!

Only 4 screws holds the frame to the super structure.

Can motor with nice universals.

I was hoping the functional vents would be removable but soldered.

I was, also, hoping the vent fans were removable so they are going to be difficult to paint.

One more obstacle: The cab is soldered 'in place'.

After a little 'brain storming' figured I could cut a square hatch in the bottom, front of the nose.

I scratched in the 'outline'.

Used a Dremel cut off disk to make the access hole.

At least I got lucky on one item: they poorly soldered the cab and it vibrated free while I was cutting the access hatch!

The slot that the cab is attached to on a 'support' wall.

Used a flat file to enlarge the slot.

I soldered an extension to the cab using my resistance soldering.

Made a U shape support with a 'tapped' hole and screw.

Used JB weld.

Applied the JB weld after 'setting up' the cab and support.

A piece of foam to secure the cab while the JB weld is drying.

Cab removed showing the new support.

This also allows me to insert the marker LED's.

Drilled holes for LED's.

Frame disassembly.

Some pictures showing the engines details.

UP GE #1 streamlined turbine (prep and painting).

I spent 7 hours on cleaning the engine, taping and applying the interior green and the yellow. Started at 9:40 AM and finished at 4:30 PM.

HAH: and my daughter says I have no patience!

The usual cleaning, compressor blow dry and in the toaster oven for about 15 minutes.

Engine at to be placed at a diagonal in the toaster oven tray.

Prep for applying the interior green paint.

Masked off the outside enough so no green paint gets on the exterior.

Did along the sides in case one can see through the windows.

Didn't do the back since that is all yellow.

Got the cab area.

No green on the exterior.

Ready for 2 hours at 200 degrees in the toaster oven.

================

Prep for applying the yellow.

Some very thin tape is needed to mask off all the 'stainless steel'.

Care has to be taken to not get the tape on the brass while not having any 'stainless steel' exposed.

'Stainless steel' windows and very thin trim along the sides is masked.

Windows masked so the interior green is not covered with 'over spray'.

UP yellow should be a good choice!

I put some light 'coats' over the 'vents' and, since they are movable, I used a tooth pick to move them 'front to back'.

I then did the usual horizontal coverage, then apply, at a 45 degree angle, from 'front to back' and then 'back to front' and then one more horizontal coverage.

I wasn't sure if the paint would get onto the back panel but it 'did'.

The 'stainless steel' window frames came out 'well' (versus good)!

Other side.

It only took me 40 years to, finally, use a chair with a 'back brace' at my work bench!

The 'stool' has many years of use, as well as I!

Sam, your step by step photo tutorials are always good!  That is one snazzy engine!!!

I need to put extra cushions on my roll around stool! 😄

Thanks, Mark.

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UP GE #1 streamlined turbine (masking and painting 2nd color).

Poor solder joint came loose on the ladder when I was masking.

Some JB weld fixed it.

Masking.

Some 'open areas' leading to those turbine side vents so masked them off so I can spray brown onto the exhaust fans.

Cab as well as along the sides taped to prevent 'over spray'.

More 'stainless steel'.

Electrical 'spots' masked. 

The main drivers have no 'outside' axles so the side trucks didn't need any masking.

Thinking about this I forgot about the lead trucks:

I forgot to mask the holes in the lead/trailing trucks.

No Scalecoat in this color so used Tru-color.

An acetone base.

Googled Tru-color and 'they' said no 'thinning' needed; I needed to thin it 50%.

Did the exhaust fans on a 'low paint application' since it would take a lot of 'passes' to cover them.

Nice that the air moved the fans so got good coverage of them.

Also, applied paint from the inside of the unit.

TA-DA!

A nice color combo.

Interesting; no overspray like I can get with enamel base paints.

It seems to dry faster.

2 more hours at 200 degrees in the toaster oven.

Fantastic looking paint job.

Thanks, Radcam.  Once in awhile I get it 'right'!

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Visit to Ed's railroad explaining how he researches for scratch building structures.

Videos:

'Walk around' of his layout (part 1 and 2).

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WwWun_TqASg

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RmC-Cq3Bsb8

Structures that he described.

UP GE #1 streamlined turbine (decaling).

I'm using 3 different sets of decal sheets to finish this model.

I needed an N gauge decal sheet for the heralds and small red 'Union Pacific' lettering.

These are old decals and no longer made so I used some 'liquid decal film' as the 'lettering' was 'falling apart'.

One side done.

Black outline silver lettering, herald plus red strips top and bottom.

A lot of work putting the red strips on the engine.

Sometimes they would 'break' so just overlap the 'break' on the model.

The red is small and 'strong' enough that there is no change of 'shade' on the 'overlap'.

Red lettering on the 'stainless' steel.

Right half done.

Left side completed.

The front red stripe is suppose to be 'level' with the side stripes but due to how the manufacturer put a platform on the front I had to raise the red stripe.

Small pieces of red stripe added at the top of the door as well as along the bottom recess.

These window trims are suppose to be silver but I don't have the 'skill set' to tape them properly nor do I think my silver paint will adhere to that surface (things that manufacturers can do with great precision).

The wire 'hand holds' are, also, suppose to be silver but the silver paint was not 'sticking'.

Also, I had a 2 small spots where the brown paint 'flaked off' that I had to 're-touch'.

Being an acetone base paint I think it dries very fast and those spots may have 'gone on dry' when using the air brush.

Ed has built an wonderful layout!  All the structures are incredible!

The UP turbine really looks great!  Excellent job!

The final video (part 1) of my GNRW layout as produced by our local team at NMRA MCR DIV 7 group.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QTEFFyTQP2s

UP GE #1 streamlined turbine (Final clear coat).

Usually, I 'satin finish' the models so they look like they've only been on the 'road' a few months.

Since UP had this engine a very short time (2 months) and returned it to GE I decided to 'clear coat' it shiny.

A 'clear coat' is always needed to protect the paint as well as the decals and to blend the entire appearance as 'one'.

Since the brown paint is acrylic I was a little concerned about enamel over the brown paint but found this:

==

Yes, you can paint enamel over acrylic paint as long as the acrylic basecoat is dry. Enamel is often used over acrylic paint without causing any reaction. Acrylics dry quickly, but they cure slowly, so you should wait at least 24 hours before overcoating or masking acrylic. Some recommend adding a layer of clear coat before applying the enamel to provide an extra barrier between the acrylic layer.

===

To be safe I 'clear coated' a small part, first, to insure no problems.

Also, it confirms my observation that it dries quickly. 

This morning I had to add a 2nd coat of brown to all the trucks as I found some areas not as 'brown' as I wanted showing some of the brass in the deep corners of the trucks.

The final 2 hours at 200 degrees in the toaster oven.

Next is assembly including decoder and 0402 LED's.

PRR DD-1 A-A units box cab electrics.

These were made by Soho in 1978.

I acquired them last year at a train show.

Disassembly and painting.

This one was like the GE #1 turbine but much harder accessing the cab.

Just 3 screws securing the gear to the shell.

Not many parts.

The frame is a blackened nickel plating so no need for disassembly.

Glad there is a can motor as it looks like it would be difficult to change motors!

Nice heavy lead weight.

The 'jack shaft' is cool.

There is cab detail 'console plate' but it is completely enclosed.

I scratched an area on the bottom plate that I removed with a 'cut off' disk.

There is seats, throttle, etc. on a piece of brass, 'console plate', that was soldered to the 'bottom support'  piece that I removed.

Fortunately the solder joint was weak and the 'console plate' part came free from the 'bottom support' piece.

The 'console plate' is 3 dimensional so I had to cut into that back bulkhead.

I had to 'butcher it up' pretty good in order to remove the 'console plate' section but the 'butchered' part is low and behind the 'console plate' so it won't be seen, especially through the small front windows.

Drilled and tapped a 2MM screw to secure the 'console plate' piece to the 'bottom support' piece.

Used  'hemo' clamps to hold the 'console plate' to the 'bottom support' while drilling/tapping them.

I drilled a hole just in front of the 'clamp' nose.

The hole at the front secures the gear mechanism.

I enlarged the hole in the shell but tapped the 'console plate'.

One side of the back bulkhead solder joint came loose so JB weld was used.

Usual green for the 'console plate' and...

the interior of the cab.  Also painted inside the shell but not likely to see it with the motor mechanism at that location.

Got most of the cab surfaces from the new 'hole'.

Also, put the air brush on 'very light' spray and got the bulkhead by holding the air brush against the front windows.

After 2 hours at 200 degrees in the toaster oven, the interior was 'masked off'.

Previously, I also, drilled out the headlight and a few holes along the bottom of the shell for some LED's.

The PRR Brunswick green is too black for my taste so I add about a 60/40 mix with GN green to give the color at least a hint of 'green'!

Two 'coats' applied with the toaster oven between each 'coat'.

PRR DD-1 A-A units box cab electrics (masking for the red roof and black undercarriage).

'Daughter day' but I got a few things done!

I used Scalecoat oxide red for the roof.

Rarely do I do 2 different colors 'at once' but the only thing black on the shell is the air tanks.

I removed the tape after applying the oxide red to the roof and painted the air tanks with the 'fluid flow' on low on the air brush.

The 2 'platforms' were, also, painted black.

Not sure one can tell the dark green from the black tank!

Another 2 hours in the toaster oven.

PRR DD-1 A-A units box cab electrics (Decaling and clear coating).

NOOO, I did not use these 30 year old decals that came with the engines but Microscale ones instead!

The decal sheet did not have the sequence of numbers that I needed so each one had to be cut and applied (always fun on small decals).

Each unit has it's own number and I choose set 3936/3937 mainly because I have a picture of it.

A very light coat of Solvaset and then a few more light applications after the decal dries.

Scalecoat satin finish applied to all parts and the final 2 hours at 200 degrees.

Also did the drive mechanism with the satin finish.

Didn't mask off the drivers, only 'shot' from the front and can use a Q-tip and solution to clean off the drivers of any light 'spray'.