Guns or GGG - Non user serviceable LED IN FT Swithces

First off, it's likely not the physical LED, it quite possibly is something in the circuitry.  A popular failure is the contacts that come out to the LED, make sure they're good when you attach the lantern projection.  You can take the lantern off, use a 1K resistor, a 6-10 volt power source, and test the LED to see if it lights.

Guns,

   Do I need to go under the switch to due this or can I just remove the LED from the top side of the switch with some long nose mini pliers.  The LED is dark but the CC switch functions perfectly.

PCRR/Dave

You can remove the lantern base...the same way you remove it to flip it to the other side. Then do the testing on the two copper connections. Try it one way (polarity) and then the other or just use 12 vac but only thru the 1K resistor in either case.

I think (I'm trying to remember) when I had one go out, the power to the lantern base was zero. You can measure the power to the lantern base where the lantern base copper connections were after you removed it. I think the issue was the 210 ohm resistor went open on the circuit board inside the switch...a largish, surface mount resistor labeled 210 in a corner of the board next to a diode...if I remember correctly.

Yep, things happen to the internals and contacts more than the LED going bad, they're pretty robust.  I have one that winks on and off, and I swapped the lantern with another and it still does it.  Obviously, not the LED, but I haven't taken it apart to fix it yet.

Gentlemen,

   Thanks much for the directions, looks like it will not get repaired till after I take the Christmas layout down anyway.  All this for a LED light that has gone out, Lionel definitely needs to make these LED's replaceable, from the top side of the switch.

PCRR/Dave 

Like I said Dave, it's likely not to be the actual LED bulb, but rather something else.

Guns,

   I understand what you are saying however the end result is the light does not work because of the problem, which I will need to fix.

PCRR/Dave

I get that the light doesn't work, but my point is that the issue is likely not the actual bulb.  That being the case, it seems to fall into all the other stuff inside the switch, you have to open it up to get at the works.

Guns,

   Thank you sir that is exactly what I really wanted to know.

I do believe this is one engineering scheme that needs to be reworked to become more user friendly.

PCRR/Dave

In general, I've been pretty happy with the Fastrack switches.  I had one that a limit switch wasn't closing at the end of travel, but that was pretty easy to fix with a little blob of JB-Weld.  I have that one that keeps turning it's light on and off, one day I'll get around to finding out what is going on there.

Guns,

  I am more than just happy with the low voltage FT Command Control Switches,

I am ecstatic with them, no more switch wires and they run great off track power, with any transformer as big as a Z-1000 or bigger.  These FT CC switches were the final reason for me to invest in the Legacy base, and a new legacy Shay Engine.  Guns these switches are big time great, and the Cab2 runs them smooth as glass.  Waiting on one more LH 048 CC Switch from out west, to put in an additional 2nd level siding, before starting to set houses on the Christmas layout.  After seeing the Legacy Shay on the tracks at one of the Monroeville, Pa train shows, man I just had to have one.  Got to be one of the coolest engines ever made.

PCRR/Dave