Help- Automatic "de"railing / Ross Custom Switches / Compound slip

Showing where the rail isolation begins and ends might help

Thank you.  In the pic below, the red spots indicate the isolated rails.  I can clarify in a a diagram later tonight as well.  

From what I see it looks like your  problem stems from where the Switch machines are shown on the diagram and where the Switch machines are actually mounted on your track. The wires, green and yellow move the switch machine right and left respectfully, but that does not always correspond to through or out. For example, using my numbering scheme, Switch number one on the diagram when it is right, it is through but on your track when it is right, it is out.

It was not clear from the picture if you use one push button to switch all four turnouts or two controllers, but I would recommend two controllers. Otherwise you can only run one train through the crossover at any time.

Without going into too much more of the engineering behind this here is the answer:

Switch one and two are going to work as a pair, when one is out two is through and vice versa. Because of the Switch motor orientation, you can wire the greens together and the yellows together. Wire the non-derails as follows:

A yellow
B green
C yellow

Switch three and four are going to work as a pair when three is out four is through and vice versa because of the Switch motor orientation you will cross wire Switch four. Wire the yellow of three to the green of four and the green of three to the yellow of four. Using the color scheme of Switch three wire the non-derails as follows:

D yellow
E green
F yellow

If you need clarification or more information, just let me know. Good luck.

Thank you @Edward G! I had  a sense that the issue might be resolved with a common sense analysis like yours. The need to update or cross the yellow / green wires on the basis of the motors location makes complete sense.

To your question above, the switches 1&2 and 3&4 are paired, respectively, with each pair sharing a common remote/control button.

One quick followup question:  when you suggest linking the yellow of switch 3 to the green of switch 4 -  does that include the  yellow wires from the number 3 switch machine AND  the yellow wire that connects to the isolated track  to be connected to the corresponding green wires of switch 4?  Or is the recommendation to link the yellow wire  from the switch 3 machine to the  green wire on the isolated leg of switch four, and vice versa?

Again, this may be obvious but at this stage I’d not leaving anything to chance,  

many many thanks again

scott

@Great Lakes RR posted:

One quick followup question:  when you suggest linking the yellow of switch 3 to the green of switch 4 -  does that include the  yellow wires from the number 3 switch machine AND  the yellow wire that connects to the isolated track  to be connected to the corresponding green wires of switch 4?  Or is the recommendation to link the yellow wire  from the switch 3 machine to the  green wire on the isolated leg of switch four, and vice versa?

let’s not leave anything to chance, but not sure I completely understand your question, but let me try to clarify…

The yellow wire from switch three will connect to the green wire of Switch four and the wire to isolated track section D, and to the wire for isolated section F, and the yellow wire for the push button.

the green wire from switch three will connect to the yellow wire of switch four and the wire to isolated track section E, and green wire for the push button.

let me clarify one more thing - in area B and area E you really have two isolated segments you can use, but you only need to use one. It does not matter which one you use, or if you want, you can use both, just connect them together.

if the light on the push button is not the way you want it you can reverse the wires to change green and red.

if this is not completely answer your questions feel free to ask more happy to help