How 'BIG' is the Williams 2-8-4 loco??

I have seen them and my recollection is that they are modeled on the Lionel 726, if that helps.  I have not bought the newer version of the Berkshire because my impression is the same as yours -- they are very small.  The 726 is not scale, but it is big enough to look good on the layout. 

The Williams Berkshire is the same size as the Lionel 726/736 of legend.  Bigger than the trainset PE Berk, smaller than a full scale Berk.

Rusty

It's a short but husky loco, partly due to the fact that Lionel's original after which

the WBB Berk is copied used the scale 700E Hudson smokebox front - or a version

of it with the same dimensions.

It's a good-sized loco - though I do not feel that the WBB version runs well (zoom!) -

if Williams had lengthened it JUST a bit so that the firebox actually fell behind the

#4 driver (definitely a universal Berk thing, by definition), I would consider it a valid

bash-able steamer, even with the too-long eccentric rod. (ERR Cruise would take

care of the zoom.)

It resembles the DT&I's Berks (and Mikes) rather much; many similar visual cues.

If you don't mind the zoom, it's a handsome "big/little" loco.

A 50 cent Inrush Current Limiter will also cure the "zoom". This is in a Turbine but I've done the same mod in the Berk. When running along side an MTH engine set at 1 MPH the turbine will run at about 3 mph. Not bad for a conventional engine. The part number is STM CL160.

Here's a Williams Berk modified to closer resemble a Lionel Berk.

Pete

I have a Lionel PE and Williams Berkshire.  The Williams is larger and the tender is much nicer.  I prefer the Williams.

I just received my WBB ATSF Berkshire, and had a couple questions in regards to size and Norton's "Inrush Current Limiter" solution.  Since there are some Berkshire owners posting on this thread I hope it's okay to add these here.

Williams lists minimum radius as O31, and curious if that is accurate?  Anybody run theirs regularly on O31?

I ran this one for a couple minutes on an O31 Realtrax test oval and it really seemed to bog down in the corners.  I think I'm under powered a bit with z750...it didn't derail, but had to throttle up in the turns.  I'm hoping it just needs break-in as well.  This is actually the biggest steam locomotive I own at this point because my space is limited.  My largest loop is only O42 so I switched over to it for now.

Norton, I copied your picture of the Inrush Current Limiter,  but could you please tell me what amperage &/or ohm rating you used?

Also, I noticed these are listed as "thermistors".  Is that the same as a resistor, and are there any pros or cons on using one of these versus using diodes? 

My electronics knowledge is limited, but that looks like a straight forward and simple installation, given you only used the one inline with the blue wire to the side of the can motor (if I'm seeing that correctly).

BTW AMCDave, did you end up getting one after all?  If so, how do you like it?

Thanks in advance for any and all advice y'all can offer!

Robert

I don't own a Williams but when the Lionel version was made for 031 curves. The Williams should run fine on 031, did you lubricate it before use? The wider the curve the better the train will run and look.

Thanks for the reply Gene!  Yes sir, I lubed all the points according to the diagram (axles, side rods, rollers, etc), but I did not add any lube to the gear box yet.  For lack of a better word it just looks a bit "stiff" in the corners...even a bit on the O42.  This is requiring an extra bit a throttle to move through them, which makes it takeoff down the straight away.

It's a new one with probably less than 1 hour runtime in the last 48 hours, so I'm hoping break-in is a factor, but also interested in the effect a thermistor or current limiter would have.

Robert

You mean they make trains that DON'T bog down in O-31 corners?

 Thanks Wowak!  Okay, probably silly me ...I'm still fairly green.  However, in my own defense  , with only the z750 to supply power (I think WBB recommends 80-90w minimum), it was more like coming to a stop in the corners while running at half throttle on the z750. My other two steamers are 4-6-0's (one WBB & one MTH), so I don't remember the bog being nearly as noticeable when first running them.  I'm guessing this is normal with the engine being new and an eight wheel driver configuration.

Robert

PS Plan on stepping up to a Z1000 eventually.

Its the curve. I have had a couple of WB Berks and other conventional engines. I had the same issues with 036 curves. I currently run 072 and 084. Even with those curves the engine will still slow down. Another thing to note. Keep smoke fluid in the smoke unit and use only a couple of drops. Too much fluid will kill the smoke unit and no fluid it will burn out quickly. 

Doug

hello Gene H and guys........

Would a Williams S-2 turbine have wobbling issues with smaller drivers ? I am thinking of getting silver one with the red pin stripe when I can afford one.

the woman who loves the S.F.5011,623

Tiffany

Found a really nice MTH RK Berk that I like alot.  It's becoming NKP 765 now...

   I would liked to have gotten the extra features of the MTH, but they go for quite a bit more.  I was really tempted by the Lionel Berk Juniors from Polar Express & Horseshoe Curve set break-ups on the bay (that was a tough call).  The Lionels were in the price range of this Williams (less than $200).

Hopefully the larger sized Williams Berkshire wasn't going too big.  As Doug/suzukovich mentioned, I'm sure this engine would be much more at home in larger curves.  Makes me wonder if my Realtrax O31 isn't a little tighter or tougher fit than O31 tubular.  I haven't messed around with any O scale tubular track (all my track is currently Realtrax), but may pick up an oval for a carpet or Christmas layout.

Tiffany, sorry to hear you had a problem with yours.  I remember reading about it when I was researching this purchase.  So far no wobbling wheels at this point thank goodness, but the engine does seem like it shakes a little in the small curves (even the O42).  Hoping that improves with more break-in, or maybe I can find someway to at least incorporate and O54 loop.

I did find this post on Norton's Current Limiter installation and good info on using the CL and series wiring (CL-150 on single motor Williams, and two CL-160's on dual motor diesels).

https://ogrforum.com/t...949#2415514336572949

Also read about how Ken-Oscale used one inline with a series wiring on a GP-30, and he seemed very happy with the results.

As always, I appreciate all the information, advice and replies.  I learn more and more from this forum all the time

Robert

Thanks Doug!  So did you have trouble running a wbb seuthe without fluid?

I had read on the Bachmann Forums that it's supposed to be okay to run these without fluid, and that puzzled me, especially since there is no on/off switch on this one.

Thanks,

Robert