How to learn how to restore and repair

I would start with something easier to work with,  like the Lionel 2037 steam engine.  They are work horses,  and relatively easy to work on.  For a display like you are attempting to run, its best to have a few engines that are ready to go, and can easily be swaped out,  If you have the same engines,  then you are only needing to know how to repair that one model,  On the vintage equipement the e-unit is an important component,  It took me years to get enough confidence to referbush them.  Generally, on the older equipment,  the insulation on the wires get frayed and need to get replaced.  Same with the smoke units.  If you are running the engine for a long time,  you will need the refill the smoke unit frequently,  If the smoke is not needed, then select an engine that does not have the smoke unit, some of those are offshoots of the 2037. 

The GG1 are impressive engines,  but I think have dual motors, and are more complex to work on. 

The forum has a lot of members with significant experience on repairs, so if you run into an issue, you can always post a question. Once you settle, on an engine,  A parts diagram is a big help. 

Displays that run the kind of hours you are talking absolutely MURDER toy trains of all scales. Postwar Lionel is not going to fair well in this arrangement. My recommendation is get yourself some Williams diesels, gut the electronics and wire in a bridge rectifier so they go forward only, and plan to change out engines every 4-6 hours.
TCA used to do a holiday display at the Nixon Library and for a few years I helped with the maintenance on the locomotives. The Williams and MTH stuff were the only things that held up to the punishment.

Bill, Ryan is absolutely right, long continuous running  will turn your locomotives to toast in a short time span.  I started running trains at my place of business four years ago.  Started by running them continuously found out quickly that was a mistake and a pain.  I have a business which allowed me to put in a coin machine, for a quarter kids and adults get to watch it run for a set period of time, saving unnecessary wear when no ones around.  I realize this may not be an option for you, but I do have another thought.  This past Christmas I was talking to one of my customers who told me about a hobby shop from his childhood which had a window display. He told me that he just had to place his hand on a given spot on the window and the train would start and run for a set amount of time. Not sure whether or not it was activated by some sort of photocell or some other means but I'm sure guys on the forum that are smarter than me could help you with this. Have a great day Bill.  Dwayne

The way I learned was just diving in and doing it on conventional stuff.  It might not be the best way but for me I was able to figure out how things work. The trickier stuff like E-units I had to look up on YouTube and after a couple it's no big deal. And when I got really stuck I asked here on the forum and was bailed out.

It helps if you can pick out a smaller job and complete it the same day otherwise your short term memory may do a data dump. I've made that mistake a few times.

The 2332 is a single motor GG1. It is a little tough to work on for a beginner as the bearings are individual pieces. The 6220 is much easier and a very good runner once lubricated. 14 hours a day would be rough for most engines. If possibles switch engines at least once a day. As Ryan said Williams diesels are a good choice and usually at a fair price. If you do decide to tackle the 2332 it helps if you have the schematics. I have a number of 2332 and they are smooth runners.  Lenny

For working on Lionel postwar, a copy of Greenburg's "Repair and Operating Manual for Lionel Trains 1945-1959" is a near must. Not necessarily a how-to book, but an exploded view, and parts list for most everything Lionel made during that era. Search this site for good reputable parts dealers if you need parts.

YouTube can be your friend for watching how others work on their trains. Some really know what their doing, others not so much. Use good judgement. You might get lucky by typing in your exact engine number in to YouTube and getting repair videos. There are some good groups on Facebook if you're into that.

Start with general maintenance, disassembly, cleaning and lubrication. Learn how to keep them running. Plenty of videos of that online. Learn about proper cleaning and lubrication products. Good advice here on OGR.

Beyond that, invest in some simple but quality tools, miniature screwdrivers, pliers, wire cutters, strippers, tweezers. I have a set of small combo wrenches normally used on carburetors that really help. Get a decent soldering iron and learn how to use it. Learn how to replace frayed and cracked-insulation wiring, replace brushes, rebuild smoke units, replace headlights.

Beyond that, start to lay in some specific repair tooling. A decent arbor press. Good used ones can be had cheap. Proper riveting and wheel pressing tools. Lean how to rivet pickup shoes, overhaul E-units, remove and press on wheels properly with proper tooling, rewind armatures. Get A good tap and die set.

Beyond that, get an airbrush and learn to use it. Learn about proper paint stripping and applications, and sources for good paint, and  proper sources for decals and graphics. Lots of advice here on OGR for the searching.

Beyond that, get yourself some hobbyist machine tools and learn to use them. How to make some simple repair parts no longer available, bearings, bushings, fiber boards, etc. Make your own repair tooling and fixtures.

When I started repairing trains I was overzealous and impatient and didn't have skills or tooling. My early attempts made me frustrated and wanting to almost quit the hobby. I've tried to use the steps above, adding patience, and have tried to lean good practices to get and keep stuff running. I work on trains mostly in the winter when it's bad weather outside. I've overhauled a few ZW's and a handful of postwar steamers. I've currently overhauled two postwar locomotives this season (Lionel 2333 NYC and Lionel 1862 General) and have two Lionel 221's almost ready for paint, with the motors overhauled and ready to go.

I generally avoid postwar locos for extended display operation.  I agree with the others; get an MTH,  Williams or RMT unit with can motor(s) for long-term reliable display use (I'm currently using a Rail King Pennsy K-4 and a RMT GG-1 with a modified Lionel EP-5 shell for the Arkansas and Missouri museum layout).

Mitch

As others have stated, postwar equipment will not handle that kind of abuse.  The armatures do not have sealed bearings.  They require frequent oil and grease for proper running.  Probably every 4-6 hours they will need fresh oil on the armatures and wheel bearings.  I would use ANY manufacture engines as long as they have can motors.  Can motors are sealed and do not require any lubrication.  They should be able to handle that amount of long run time.  To make it easier on the engines, I would still swap out engines throughout the day every so many hours.  You said 14 hours a day, so maybe run an engine for 7 hrs then swap it with another one.

I have read that about Williams for years,.. surprised to see MTH listed as a long runner .. not seen that elsewhere, but maybe should not be, as didn't MTH once work closely with Williams? As a kid I literally ran a driver off a Marx #999, so wondered if a Marx engine (l remember them displayed running, in windows and store toylands, in the good old days). Have heard Marx described as bulletproof, but at their price point, maybe that is relative? Bet sliding collectors will wear out fast in constant running. Dunno if more impressive #333 Marx Pacific is as durable as #999.  These might be a cheap, common choice.

@colorado hirailer posted:

I have read that about Williams for years,.. surprised to see MTH listed as a long runner .. not seen that elsewhere, but maybe should not be, as didn't MTH once work closely with Williams?

Mike Wolf assembled Williams trains in Jerry Williams' garage during the early years of Williams Reproductions, when the firm basically did reproductions of "tinplate" (sheet-metal pre-WW2 era) trains. He later purchased the tooling for these trains when setting out on his own as a manufacturer after Williams had moved on to O-gauge postwar-style trains.   

---PCJ

I'd recommend Williams engines - they're inexpensive, relatively bulletproof, and many parts are still available.  They also don't contain the sophisticated (and expensive) electronics that are susceptible to electrical gremlins.  If you choose to use modern MTH or Lionel engines, I suggest searching for topics on the forum related to proper transformers, circuit breakers, and TVS diodes.

Although can motors don't need lubrication, the gears and axles still do.  In my experience, it's simpler to handle this task on Williams engines.

If you want to learn how to work on postwar stuff, basket cases can be found inexpensively at meets - just make sure that there are no obvious flaws that make a repair unfeasible.   

FWIW, Henning's Trains ran a somewhat aging MTH Railking steamer around on the outside track for years.  Periodically after hundreds of hours, it would get some maintenance.  I know it got at least one motor, and finally the wheel flanges were worn thin from the constant running.  It was modified to have just a bridge rectifier to eliminate the issues of electronics malfunctioning, and of course you couldn't run smoke since that would need constant attention.  However, six weeks would be child's play for one like this.

I think those or the Williams models mentioned would be top choice.

I know that Bill at the shop had a couple of the Lionel Polar Express set engines running on his fancy Christmas Tree a few years ago, he had to rotate them out for maintenance pretty regularly, so I'm not sure I'd pick those for this task, they didn't hold up nearly as well as the Railking steamer.

I setup a window display for a local antique shop for a few years. I put them on a timer that ran for 10 minutes on the half hour. Also was turned off 9pm til 9am

The first year I ran postwar Lionel and it did OK for a day or two. Then I'd have to service them.

The next year I ran a Williams engine, it did great. Only had to service once.

My biggest failure was operating accessories like the Operating Watchman. They would burn out pretty regularly.

Re: postwar ZWs, Kent, a local TCA member shares his expertise with ZWs at Tranz4mr’s ZW Page.  This ZW service document is from my digital copy of the Lionel Postwar Service Manual, attached.

This 1954 issue of How to Operate Lionel Trains and Accessories was with my quarter of Dad's trains.

Wow. Only 24 hours from my first post and I’m humbled by the response. Thank you all so much for your advice and guidance. I can’t wait to begin the journey. As many suggested I’ll start simple and build . Will check out the Williams engines. It looks like I have a lot to learn. I’m loving the videos on the forum samples so far.  Thanks again. I look forward to becoming part of the community. Hope to send pics some day. Keep well all

At your service, Bill

I started back in the hobby in 2021 out of shear boredom after 2 years of retirement.  This forum is a great place to find out how to repair almost anything.  It takes a bit of trial and error (sometimes leading to shear panic), but the PW stuff is easy to work on to start with.  I've now become comfortable with some (not all) modern units.  With gunrunnerjohn's help, I am now putting in a TMCC board into a Lionel speeder.  I will strongly second the recommendations on getting good tools.

Thanks for the thoughts. Question, what is "PW" stuff? TMCC?

PW is postwar for Lionel's era from 1945-1969.

TMCC - Train Master Command Control - Lionel's original command control system.

Post War, not sure exact end year but say mid-60s.

T??? M??? Command Control. That is a Lionel system. That allows control of engines and some operating accessories via a hand held remote, not the transformer.  There are several options for that.

We run a Christmas layout at the South Hadley MA Senior Center. An RMT Beep engine has been running since after Thanksgiving but we have the layout on a timer and a button has to be pushed to start the Trains. A Lionel Gateman and flashing RR Crossing light also have been operating flawlessly all season. The trains run for about 5 minutes after the button is pushed.