Installing cork bedding with a nail (pin) gun and air compressor?

Use a staple gun designed for low-voltage wiring. T-18 or T-25 works well. Or a T-50 with long staples. You won't need to use many staples.

I’d go with the staple gun as well. I’ve used it in the past with no issues.

Seems like this question was in another thread recently. 

In any case, about one-third of my cork road bed was put down with an air compressor and a brad nailer.  Worked very, very well.  Easy to get up, if necessary.  Recommended.

@Mannyrock posted:

Has anyone used a nail gun (pin gun) with an air compressor, to nail the cork down with 1/2 inch finish nails?   I have used these guns a fair amount for installing floor trim, and they work really well once you get the air pressure adjusted just right.  You can buy the nails in a coated brown color, so they would blend right in with the cork.

Thanks for any experiences.   

Mannyrock

I use my pin brad nailer and turn the air pressure down. I also hold the gun slightly above the cork so the nails don't blow right thru it. Of course it matters what you're nailing into and how strong your nail gun is.

I don't use glue. If there's an issue, usually with a curve section, I can easily pull it up and do it again. I use 2 rail flex track and try and have easements into the curves.

Cork is flexible.  I install roadbed along with the track.  The track/track screws hold all in place.  Finish with road bed granule material and white glue.  A sharp utility knife works well to cut custom pieces of cork.  I also use a bench grinder to further custom cut/grind,alter, pieces of cork.   IMO, Mike CT. 

I will be nailing or stapling into 1/2 inch exterior plywood, which is extremely dry and hard at this point.   So, I am not sure that a hand operated stapler would do it.  Also, my right hand is really stressed out from tendonitis, and I don't think it would survive pushing down on a  mechanical stapler hundreds of times.

I have an air powered staple gun, that I use for stapling down underlyment when doing bathroom floors.  It is super powerful though, and takes alot of adjustment to get it so that it doesn't blow the staples clean through the underlayment.

I though about not fastening the cork down at all, and just letting the track screws hold it in place, but with three rail track, and only two screws per section, I don't think this would work, especially on curves.

So, it looks like the brad gun may be the way to go.   Glad to hear that others have used it successfully.

Thanks,

Mannyrock

I've used tacks, staples and glue. OF the three, I liked the results from a simple staple gun the best. The roadbed is secure, but you can remove things easily. The added benefit is that if the staple is hit by a track screw, it has enough give to move aside. As I recall, the last time I did this I used 5/16" light-duty staples since they were really there to hold the roadbed in place laterally rather than holding it down.

The pin nailer works great for both cork and track.

For fastening cork and Homabed I use 5/8" X 18 ga brads in an air nailer.  I have installed literally thousands of feet of cork roadbed in this fashion.  I draw a centerline then install one side at a time using a lot of brads on a 2" to 3" spacing.  Adjust the air pressure for a mid body stop and you will have a very successful installation.

Another side benefit is that I have torn down layouts with this method, used a 6" spackle knife to pop up

Also, when installing two rail I like to stagger rail ends:

Thanks to all for the additional technical info.

Mannyrock