Kadee under tie magnets

Rick. I have been trying get mine to work consistently.  I finally tried using just one magnet on top of ties I have  Gar Graves track . I also went with the new generation E coupler. Most of the time I have no problems but occasionally I have one car that causes problems. I find I had not gotten the trip pin in right position or mounted it to high seems. To not take much. Have you  considered earth magnes ? I am considering that also but have not found how to do yet.

I'm in three rail and sometimes to get stronger attraction I glue, small super magnets under or next to my three rail magnets.  There was a thread a while ago, somebody was using  super magnets between the ties under ballast. I tried tha,t but I think my third rail was messing me up.

Do you remove the ties and do you use one or two kadee magnets??

The 3 rail magnets are long and narrow to fit between the three rails and still leave room for wheels flanges.(look like ties). The package includes 4 magnets and a metal plate that goes underneath the rails  and the magnets are attached to that. Several ties on Gargraves track have to be removed. then little short pieces are glued onto the outside of rails.  Sometimes I just use two of the magnets glued on top of ties and then glue super magnets to the bottom of the kadee magnets, between the ties. I don't have to tear up any track ties and only a little ballast that way, I even install the magnets on turnouts.

I get reliable uncoupling using  2 parallel rows of small round super magnets sitting on the top of drywall screws.  They can mounted so the height of the top of the small magnets is lower than tie height and then hidden under under a little ballast.  See this OGR post from several years ago for more info - including a video:  https://ogrforum.com/...tos-and-test-results.  Net cost around $0.75 per un-coupler.  With dozens of  un-couplers on my railroad the savings were significant - and I couldn't be more pleased with their operation.

I glue mine to the top of ties. I think the key to getting them to work well. Is using metal between the magnet and the ties. Trim the metal piece with a saw or Dremel the width of the magnet. Glue the magnet to the metal and the metal to the wood tie. Make some spacers out of some scrap basswood to evenly space them out while the glue dries.

I’ve experienced better results with the older 805 couplers with the trip pin that points almost straight down. It could just be me on that one. Using the suggested graphite lube I believe helps also.

Rick, I have a couple hundred of the small magnets Ed Rappe talks about.  I can give you some if you stop by.   Also I have found that the under tie magnets don't work well in O but the between the tie magnets do work nicely.

thanks Jim. will have to try that. will stop by next week.

Have you tried Rail Crew on-off remote uncoupler, Item #320001 by Rapido Trains. Its a very strong, electro magnet that's installed under the track.

Use 2 side by side 1.5" by 1.5" by 1/16" super magnetics from K&J magnetics, Inc.  They work perfectly and if you slightly thin the atlas ties you don't have to cut into underlay and still not have a hump yard.  The 1/16' thick K&J magnets are very strong.  Much better/stronger than Kadee brand magnets.

I don't work for "www.kjmagnetics.com"

I just use my hands since it is a shelf layout. Never fail to uncouple. Any who, I like making up the train more than dispersing it.

GRJ did a thread about some uncoupling sections he made to include pictures but I think they were factory type couplers but the concept should still work for KD’s since both types use magnets.