Let's talk about cleaning the track!

Thanks for the input Mike. I use goo gone on mine but not WD40 will try that but use alcohol after to clean goo gone off so i will quit using alcohol on my track to clean it.    

I have long used WD40 to preserve O gauge (and other) track that has been stored--usually in less-than-favorable conditions--for many years.  Just prior to this past Christmas, I decided to open a box of new Lionel O gauge tubular track that had been packed and stored in various garages around the country for some 20 years.  I had sprayed the track with WD40 before packing and then wrapped it in newspapers.  The track was as new when I opened that box as it was when I packed it away a couple of decades ago.  I credit that pristine condition to the WD40.

 

Of course, I cleaned the track thoroughly before I used it; wiping it down with LGB Smoke/Cleaning Fluid, which is what I have used for years to clean track in a variety of gauges and types.  Costly, but very effective.

 

When I run into track that really needs a thorough cleaning (a VERY rare event), I first clean the railheads with a track cleaning eraser; then apply LGB cleaning fluid with a clean scrap of cloth; and finally wipe/dry things down with another scrap of clean cotton cloth (old t-shirt).

 

I have never used alcohol to clean track, and really have no reason to ever use it for that purpose.

goo gone, bottle about 4 or 5 yrs old,  but my rag , is as dirty as can be,

   Works !!!!

THANK YOU, !!!!!!!!!!!!!

Mike,

 

Thanks for posting.  Any opinions on denatured alcohol?  Its formula is:  C2H6O.

 

Thanks.

 

 

I've been using Goo-Gone for about 15 years on my S scale railroad (code 100 nickle silver) in combination with a CenterLine track cleaning car and have had no ill effects.  Three laps around and I'm good for a couple of months.

 

Rusty

Ethyl alcohol is C2H5OH, so it still has the hydroxal molecule - best to NEVER use any "rubbing" alcohol as it also contains 30 % water!

Goo Gone is the best product.

Lately, I have actully been using a clean microfiber cloth with NO solvents - just some old fashioned "elbow grease"!

Mike,

Which googone formula do you use?  I checked the website and there are quite a few selections.  Thank you.

Iso Alcohol has worked for me for ages and only when I try anything else do I have problems, so I am sticking with it.  Goo-Gone is a great cleaner when you have really dirty track, but it sure can smell up the place.

I would also be interested in an answer concerning Denatured Alcohol, which is what I have been using for many years.

Back in the 1980's, the "in" cleaner was Wahl Hair Clipper Oil. Anyone else remember that? Anyone still use it?

Mike,

 

Are you putting the WD40 on the wheel bearings or the roller pickup bearings?

Denatured alcohol is C2H5OH or Ethanol. But you can't drink it. That's why it's called "denatured." IMO, as long as your alcohol based cleaner has a low H2O percentage and evaporated quickly you should be ok.

I use it to lubricate roller pick ups only and my hair clipper.

I use Goo-Gone occasionally with my Centerline track cleaning car. Mostly I run my Northeast Trains track cleaning car with a 3-M Scotch-Brite pad cut to fit it. A few times around the layout works great. My grandson lets Thomas handle the duties.

Trainman,

Both. I wipe it on the collector roller, then wipe off. I often times wipe the wheel rolling face and flange, then wipe that off. The bearings just get a squirt, as they are often time very difficult to access without tearing the truck apart. Not to mention the key location where ground is transferred from the rails to the frame and ultimately the lamps or PCB's! So, all surfaces that contact the rail. Wipe it on, wipe it off. Mr Miagi would be proud!

Could this product be used as a general lubricant for engines and rolling stock?

Makes perfect sense, I have been using WD-40 to clean wheels on old post war locomotives for years. I spray it on and let it sit on there for a few minutes and then wipe the wheels down with a soft cloth a few times. The wheels always clean right up electrical contact was always good now that I think about it. So why not try it on the track. So I will spray a light amount of WD-40 on to a rag and wipe down the track rails with it and then a after a few minutes  I will wipe the rails down again with a clean cloth to get them dry. I was never a fan of using rubbing alcohol to clean anything except to clean up excess glue right after application. Goo Gone I have used before.  I will give it a try.

Mike,

I thought I overheard once at a train club that Goo Gone damaged some of their traction tires. Have you heard anything like this?

Ed

Ed,

Nope, never. I have been using Goo Gone for well over a decade and have never had any issues with it affecting traction tires.

 

Keep in mind I use Goo Gone to clean the track, not WD-40. I use WD-40 to undo what is done when folks use alcohol. (and to improve conductivity on locos and rolling stock with lamps/sounds/etc.). Someone mentioned cleaning the track with WD-40 above, not good for cleaning rails, only improving conductivity!

 

(Let's not get into "things I overhead at the train club" topic! It's like women at the beauty salon!) too much drama! LOL

 

 

Thanks Mike. I am not sure you are winning over the beauty salon crowd.I have it on good authority that there are not too many trains in the salons anyway. Would it make any sense to use WD 40 every 3 months but do the regular track cleaning with Goo Gone? I have used Isopropyl Alcohol and now you have more thinking about a better way. Thanks.

Ed

Sure do remember it, Bill.  I haven't used it for a long time, but did once use it on my N, HO, and Z track and catenary wire.  Worked just fine!

I doubt it.  Too light/viscous.  It would likely work its way to all kinds of places where you wouldn't want oil to be.

Remember it and still use it, but not as a cleaner, more of a track conditioner. Just Scotch Brite pads and elbow grease followed by just a drop of the clipper oil.

I've used alcohol prep pads to clean my N scale track, but never thought about using WD-40.  I buy WD-40 by the gallon can (much cheaper than buying it in the spray cans) to clean the vinyl siding on the house.  Just put it in a spray bottle & use.  

I've recently purchased a bunch of used/older O gauge track & switches, so I'll give it a try, cleaning them up with the WD-40.

Dave

 

Thanks for the info...it supports our (LHS) sales of Goo-Gone...alone or with the Centerline Track Cleaner cars...as the best all-around track cleaner.  Yeah, the smell is a downer for some (incl. my wife!), but it does the job on tracks of all gauges.

 

That said, we sell alot of this product:

https://dealers.walthers.com/exec/productinfo/547-452

...but not just to trains folks.  The R/C airplane guys have found a unique use for it: Those who have an enclosed trailer in which to haul their large wingspan aircraft to the flying field use Rail-Zip on the trailer in-line plugs.  As word has spread, others of that crowd are buying it for their recreational and utility trailer connections.  Go Figure!? Those of the train crowd...smaller in number than the 'Goo-Goners'...are faithful in relying on it.

 

Lately, we've had one chap who swears by an Atlas product....their #192 "Conducta Lube-Cleaner"...for keeping his track working well.  Could be a Wahl Clipper Oil clone. 

 

FWIW, always....

 

KD

I use CRC QD electronic cleaner on a rag to wipe down my track, works great.

I also understood the same development of WD-40. The problem was, however WD-40 DID NOT WORK as intended! The "WD" was designed as a "Water Dispersant" but later findings discovered the WD-40 actually ATTRACTS H2O. Thus, coating metal, such as iron or steel with WD-40 will cause that metal to rust faster.

 

Another fact, cleaning your track with Goo-Gone will leave a film that will eventually attack your traction tires, and will also degrade your DCS signal. Although THAT would NOT be of any concern to ANYONE at Lionel, I it sure caused problems on my layout.  

Correct. Citrus oils can cause softening of elastomers such as those found in traction tires. Goo Gone would be the worst possible choice as a track cleaner since it is not 100% volatile.

I've been using 91% iso alcohol for almost 10 years without any damage to my track, so I'm going to keep using it. 

M A T E R I A L S A F E T Y D A T A S H E E T

SECTION I - PRODUCT & COMPANY IDENTIFICATION

Product Name:

Goo Gone – 3 oz.

Product Code(S):

1647, 1649, 1650

Date:

12-12-12

Distributed By:

THE HOMAX GROUP INC.

1835 Barkley Blvd, Suite 101.

Bellingham, WA, 98226

Business Phone:

1-800-729-9029

Transportation Emergencies:

CALL CHEMTREC AT 1-800-424-9300

SECTION 2- HAZARD IDENTIFICATION

POTENTIAL HEALTH EFFECTS:

ROUTES OF EXPOSURE:

EYE CONTACT, SKIN CONTACT, INHALATION, INGESTION.

EYE CONTACT:

CAUSES EYE IRRITATION. PROLONGED OR REPEATED CONTACT MAY CAUSE

SEVERE EYE IRRITATION

SKIN CONTACT:

CAUSES SKIN IRRITATION. PROLONGED OR REPEATED CONTACT MAY CAUSE

DERMATITIS AND DEFATTING OF SKIN. SKIN ABSORPTION MAY CAUSE CENTRAL NERVOUS SYSTEM

DEPRESSION, LIVER DAMAGE, AND KIDNEY DAMAGE.

INGESTION:

INGESTION MAY CAUSE VOMITING, CENTRAL NERVOUS SYSTEM DEPRESSION, AND

LUNG INFLAMMATION AND DAMAGE DUE TO ASPIRATION OF MATERIAL INTO LUNGS. HARMFUL OR

FATAL IF ASPIRATED INTO LUNGS.

INHALATION:

MAY CAUSE RESPIRATORY TRACT IRRITATION, HEADACHE, NAUSEA, DROWSINESS,

CENTRAL NERVOUS SYSTEM DEPRESSION, CONVULSIONS AND LOSS OF CONSCIOUSNESS.

CHRONIC EFFECT:

SEE SECTION 11 OF THIS MSDS

===================================================================================

SECTION 3 - COMPOSITION/INFORMATION ON INGREDIENTS

CHEMICAL CAS NUMBER WEIGHT %

Hydrotreated light distillates

64742-47-8 90% to 95%

d-Limonene

5989-27-5 1% to 5%

Tripropyleneglycol methyl ether 25498-49-1 1% to 5%

SECTION 4 - FIRST AID MEASURES:

EYE CONTACT:

I hope you don't need a doctorate in chemistry to safely clean your track.

Ed

Since my layout is 100% fastrack, I use a product called "Bestine" which is essentially rubber cement thinner available at art supply stores.  It evaporates quickly like acetone, but unlike acetone, it won't harm plastic like fastrack roadbed and ties nor contribute to oxidizing the track. 

 

The downside to Bestine is it is flammable as two of my club members found out the hard way.

 

For flickering lights on passenger cars like the Polar Express that I haven't already converted to LEDs, I use contact cleaner / lubricant (used to be called tuner cleaner) on the roller axles and on the brass wiper arms that touch the wheel axles.

  

I have tried goo-gone, but I wasn't as impressed as using Bestine.  For me, this works the best, bar none.  It won't eat the paint either unlike alcohol or acetone.

 

 

 

Amazing.  Lionel's head tech guy comes here to try to be helpful, and he is basically attacked for offering bad advice - someone even speculating Lionel is trying to sabotage MTH products to some degree.  Again, I am speechless but I guess I shouldn't be that surprised as this is the internet -- on car forums populated by enthusiasts you have many guys claiming they know better than the factory when it comes to maintenance.  Ridiculous but it is what it is.

 

Personally, I appreciate Mike's advice here and I hope he continues to offer it.

Skyhook, I would tend to agree with you about that. It's been awhile since i took organic chemistry but I don't recall ever hearing of the corrosive effects of alcohols under normal conditions.

Like most alcohols, isopropyl alcohol reacts with active metals such as potassium to form alkoxides . The reaction with aluminum at high tempatures is used to prepare the catalyst aluminum isoperoxide.

At work we store sandblasted and cleaned metals, steel, nickel, copper in IPA until it's needed for our processes and I've never seen corrosion on any of it. In fact the German company that makes our machinery recommends IPA or methanol as a storage agent for the parts.

 

Jerry

I almost didn't look at this thread, since there have been so many threads with strong opinions about which track cleaner to use.  But I just got back from the train room, and I'll tell you one thing:  Mike is absolutely right about the WD-40 cleaning tests.

 

I had one illuminated coach that flickered much more than the others in the set.  Applying WD-40 to the roller and its shaft, then wiping down the roller as suggested, so improved that car that it lights just as well as its mates.

 

Then I cleaned a 3' section of track where all my engines slowed down.  I had always assumed that I should have run another electrical feed at that point.  After wiping the WD-40 dry, the engine slows not a bit that I can tell.  Thanks Mike!

What about simple green??

I've been using WetOnes for the most dirty sections of track - doesn't seem to have any side effects. I use the green Track Scrubbers to dry.