Skip to main content

I mentioned in a separate thread posted yesterday about my new Premier Hotel that it was the first building on my layout that had lighting installed.  Even though it was a Woodland Scenics built up that came with LED lighting, since it required a weird 5 V or something supply, I pulled those out and used cheap 12V LED modules I bought on Amazon (more below).  Today I began working my way north on my Main street with the building right across the street from the hotel - the Henry family Ford dealership.  It took all of five minutes to install., wire up, and get the roof back on.  It's wonderful.  I have one old Lifelike DC power supply from my N-scale days, set to 11 volts (they are a bit too bright at 12V) that will power the entire street's twenty-odd buildings. The Ford dealership was at one time an MTH susquehanna Hat Factory, but has had several floors removed.

 

The Hotel and the dealership look so good with lights on, even in broad "daylight."

Slide1

Slide2

 

Yes, that's a Cobra (my favorite type: one of the very first series) in front, and that is Carroll Shelby standing on the corner.

Slide3

 

I don't like to use "ribbon" type LEDs.  These seem better: 3-light modules in plastic blocks with ounting screws and self-stick tape on back.  About 3 inches long each.  They cost about ten dollars for twenty modules. 

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BG4T6EU/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Slide4

 

I cut one off, as shown.  I mounted it in the Ford dealership building about halfway up the back wall facing toward the ceiling, with na index-card sized piece of aluminum foil mounted on the ceiling above it, which dispersed the light more evenly.  

Slide5

Attachments

Images (5)
  • Slide1
  • Slide2
  • Slide3
  • Slide4
  • Slide5
Last edited by Lee Willis
Original Post

Replies sorted oldest to newest

Thanks for the link Lee. In this era of "me 2 publishing" a today's technology article on applied LED lighting for hobbyists would seem like a sell out issue/publication. With our own layout I am sure I would have used LED strip lighting to illuminate our second lower level (rather than the old school 100 incandescent Christmas lighting). I can enVision low cost LED home, layout & craft lighting as the new art form/skill for the following years... then again perhaps not. 

 

Last edited by Between A&B

In answer to questions, there are no resistors needed.  

 

The LED modules are designed to work on 12 V.  All you have to do is hook them up to a 12 volt or so DC source.  I say DC - they ought to work after a fashion on AC but I haven't tried.  

 

Anyway, I use a Lifelike N-gauge Dc power supply set to 11 volts, so I get a slightly lower light level, and simply wire each building module directly to it.  

Last edited by Lee Willis
Originally Posted by ddurling:

Looks great! Do they offer a warmer LED?

I was wondering the same thing.  I think I'll stick with incandescents in my buildings. They dim nicely too.  I have no issue with the extra electrical consumption as most of it goes to heat and that's welcome this time of year.  Besides, I am generating 40kWh a day with my new solar array.  

 

 I have given up my LED Christmas lights because they are way too blue.  The reds are ridiculously weak and washed out.  I prefer C-7's and especially twinkle lights on the tree and C-9s outdoors. There is something unsettling about the LEDs ... makes me feel uneasy.   Can't explain it, but COLD comes to mind.    

I also purchased 40 of these and sitting here with one on my work bench hooked up to a spare CW-80. I'm trying my best to burn one out for the last 30+ minutes but it works fine even with way to much power.

 

My question is are any of you hooking them up to your AC auxiliary transformers or staying DC. I can't find anywhere it says AC or DC. Thanks for any feedback form you that have purchased these. I'm calling these my Lee Willis Lights. They are very nice LED's for projects either way.

I think they will work on AC just fine they are diodes is all.  I know they are rated at 18V but I tested one of mine at full CW-80 output for quite some time and it seemed hotter than normal but did not burn out. Not sure how long it would last - I suspect quite awhile, but . . . only one way to find out!

 

Anyway, I run mine, in buildings, at about 10 volts just because I like the softer light look better.  

Post
×
×
×
×
Link copied to your clipboard.
×
×