So far, I've only heard of pantograph repair for the 2005 Acela. I assume you applied light pressure on the pantograph hoping to engage the motor mechanism. I would also try a factory reset. With your engine under warranty, I wouldn't attempt to tear into the engine.
Thanks Bruce I did try both of your methods
thanks
also I am a bit confused when you switch back and forth between the cafe and engine. Some of your notes say type in engine number, or use the TR button to toggle back and forth.
which way should it be done.
also when you go back and forth ther is a power button. Do you use that ? Or do you just turn the throttle to engage.
@Rsicinski posted:also I am a bit confused when you switch back and forth between the cafe and engine. Some of your notes say type in engine number, or use the TR button to toggle back and forth.
which way should it be done.
also when you go back and forth ther is a power button. Do you use that ? Or do you just turn the throttle to engage.
Never use the TR button. You toggle back and forth between the Acela (Pair) ID# and the Bistro ID# using the ENG button. If you don't see sound options for the Bistro car, just slightly move the speed control.
Sorry I meant “Eng”
do you type in the number that was assigned or just toggle til you see it
After you set up the engines and set an ID#, you then set up the Bistro with a number. By pressing ENG (sometime double clicking on it) you'll switch between the IDs without re-entering the number. However, no harm if you have to re-enter the ENG ID to control either the engine pair or Bistro.
Thanks
I have the polar set and regular Acela set
thankfully the only thing that was wrong between the two sets, was one cat did not go down.
unfortunately the polar set with the catenary issue was purchased from a seller who is not a Lionel authorized reseller.
I wonder what Lionel will charge me .
So here’s a new issue - my rear unit will not go into reverse (I get the flashing lights of doom). It works fine going forward, the problem doesn’t seem to be mechanical, so it seems like a software issue. I tried some of the remedies suggested in this thread and they failed (moving forward a little then switching directions). Is this a known issue? Is there a way to reset the engine software to factory settings?
Art,
These engines are more sensitive to transformer type and track wiring than others. Also there is no known complete factory S/W reset.
What transformer are you using and length/type of wire to the tracks closest the engine? Try changing the transformer type and try using the shortest, largest gauge wire possible to the track.
Prior to resetting the "bad" engine, remove the "good" engine from the track.
Then:
- With power on track, press the “R” with the octagon around it. The engine should respond with a short whistle.
- Turn off power to track
- Turn off command base power to stop TMCC/Legacy radio frequency from reaching the track
- Wait about 30 seconds.
- Restore command base power
- Restore track power.
- Turn speed wheel to move forward
If the above reset doesn't work, then repeat but instead of 30 seconds, wait 30 minutes to allow all the engine boards to fully discharge.
Thanks for the tips Bruce, unfortunately nothing seems to be working so its off to Lionel I guess. Another question though - my lead unit has the cab light come on automatically when power is applied to the track. Otherwise it works fine. Is this normal behavior or is this a bug/setting problem? Thanks!
@art_legend posted:my lead unit has the cab light come on automatically when power is applied to the track.
Art,
This is normal. The cab is dimly lit when power is applied to the track in TMCC/Legacy mode (before any command is initiated)
New issue for me
head unit headlight no longer lights when going forward. I pressed aux2 which works on the tailing unit but not head unit.
I also did a reset just with the head engine on and nothing.
@Rsicinski posted:head unit headlight no longer lights when going forward.
"It's always something!" (with the Acela
)- Roseanne Roseannadanna
I'll see if I can reproduce the condition tomorrow.
It’s never easy with this one !
the side markers by the wheels work, and once in a while the headlight will flash on very briefly.
I did a restart of just the engine alone on the tracks.
thank god I have the polar express Acela set that I can switch out if I have to send this back.
@Rsicinski posted:thank god I have the polar express Acela set that I can switch out
"Yeah...That's the ticket!" - Jon Lovitz
The perfect solution for Acela owners. Mine has been back at Lionel four times.
At this point they should send loners for all the lemons.
What’s your opinion on all the issues.
did they rush it?
when they get them back, do they scratch their heads at Lionel, and baffled by these issues, or do you think they knowingly sent them with issues.
@Rsicinski posted:did they rush it?
when they get them back, do they scratch their heads at Lionel, and baffled by these issues, or do you think they knowingly sent them with issues.
I have no idea. Only Lionel knows the failure and/or manufacturing defect rate of these components and whether it is higher or lower than their other higher-end engines and cars. One of my returns was due to a manufacturing defect at the factory, while other returns were failures running the set. The good news is that Lionel has been cooperative in getting consumers the RMA number and prepaid shipping label for warranty repairs. Each Acela repair has been taking about 7 weeks.
I spoke with Lionel and waited for a tech
they said could be board issue and send it back
As you have discovered, AUX 2 controls the front lights. Not much more you can do if that command doesn't switch them on.
Has anyone looked into swapping the scale coupler on the nose to an o scale dummy coupler so you can pull more cars with the Acela engines?
A standard consist for a Acela train set, is six cars between the two engines.
But it is your railroad.
@LionelLegend posted:Has anyone looked into swapping the scale coupler on the nose to an o scale dummy coupler so you can pull more cars with the Acela engines?
Im sure you could. It would look good with a diesel at the head end as it is not uncommon that the Acelas break down. I have also see a full commuter train with an Acela in tow.
Have a question
whenever I stop, the catenaries reverse themselves and then the engines have to be reset to go again.
any remedies
@Rsicinski posted:whenever I stop, the catenaries reverse themselves and then the engines have to be reset to go again
Are you saying that the engines will no longer move after a stop? When that happened to me I also got a blinking cab light. My cure was changing the transformer. Or is the only problem that the catenaries reverse on a stop?
Have to reset with blinking lights
sometimes, sometimes not
sometimes the catenary do not go down, but then I get the flashing light.
sometimes when I am at a station and using the dining car and then switch back to the engines, I get the flashing lights
I just got it back from Lionel , and I am using a z1000 block directly, no transformer and currently using thick gauge wire and a short run, as you have suggested in the past.
it’s crazy with the amount of money this set was, it should run flawlessly.
I am going to call Lionel tomorrow
First try cleaning the engine rollers and wheels, and cleaning the track itself, in order to lower resistance between the track and engine. See if that helps in any manner.
Also I would like to see if the problem persists either borrowing a different transformer (like a PH180) or running the engine on a short test track where the wires between the transformer and track would be minimal.
If nothing else works, then calling Lionel is the right thing to do. Hopefully you'll be able to get through to a tech who will offer a suggestion.
What if I told you last night? All I did was clean the track and then when I toggle back-and-forth between the Diner car and the engine I actually pushed the start key instead of turning the dial. I think it’s the number seven key for the power and when I did that I had no issues running the engine.
Great news. I'm happy you got the problem resolved without the need to ship it back.
I am curious how often when you guys have a run session do you have to reset because of binding with the engine
@Rsicinski posted:I am curious how often when you guys have a run session do you have to reset because of binding with the engine
What do you mean by "binding"?
Flashing light in the cab having to hit the r button to proceed
Try switching to (or borrowing) another transformer like a PH180, Z4000, or ZW-L (not the post-war ZW). That "binding" problem always happened to me before I started using the PH180.
I am using a z1000 block only
I will try my z4000 or I’ll buy the ph 180
Try using the Z4000 with a direct connection to the track (no TIU, no breakers, no choke) and let us know the results.
Will do
I just remembered I use my 4000 at the club and I would have to reset it so that’s not gonna help I don’t think
What is the length and gauge of the wire from the Z1000 to the track? Are you using the Z1000 without the Z-Controller box?
Do you have the same issue when you always run the set in the reverse direction? Is it always the same engine (#21 or #24?)
Thick Gauge 12
no controller on z1000
just Brick
vert short distance from rail to 1000
Test running now with my z4000 from my other layout
I noticed it’s the rear engine always flashing not the head unit
I think backwards it runs ok
z4000 made no difference
I hope if I buy the Lionel power pack
I won’t get stuck if I have the same issues
