Lionel Conventional Classics GG-1 No power to motors

Here is the manual for the loco, includes a wiring schematic, maybe you can find the issue.  On second thought, this says 1998, but it may have some similarities.

https://www.lionelsupport.com/...ments/41Complete.pdf

Can you turn the armature(s) at all with your finger?  If the grease solidified, the power trucks may be locked up.  After 16 years, disassembly, cleaning, and re-greasing might be required.  Also check for magne-traction magnets which might have shifted to rub on the inside of the wheels like a brake.  My $.02.

Unfortunately, some of these GG1s have issues which might relate to your problem...
There was conjecture that the new "metric" spec Pullmor motor did not have the same tolerances/ build quality as expected since it was an antiquated open frame design unfamiliar to the factory.
Additionally, a washer was occasionally misplaced between the motors and frame (should be under the frame, not above). This caused the wheels to rub on the frame, increasing the current draw, overheating the e-unit. This was compounded by the poorly ventilated, tightly-packed enclosed shell and covered windows which already caused the electronics to run hot. There was also speculation about higher resistance brushes generating more heat. Factory lubrication was also minimal.

In addition, the Conventional Classics sound board is not entirely compatible with the Z-4000 (it "burps"). The spurious bell is also a known issue separate from this incompatibility believed related to electronic noise/ interference and board design.

Various threads exist on this forum with further discussion and details, some of which encompass more of the Conventional Classics line.

@CALNNC posted:

Here is the manual for the loco, includes a wiring schematic, maybe you can find the issue.  On second thought, this says 1998, but it may have some similarities.

https://www.lionelsupport.com/...ments/41Complete.pdf

Thank you for the schematic! Mine is only conventional but alot still lined up

@Ted S posted:

Can you turn the armature(s) at all with your finger?  If the grease solidified, the power trucks may be locked up.  After 16 years, disassembly, cleaning, and re-greasing might be required.  Also check for magne-traction magnets which might have shifted to rub on the inside of the wheels like a brake.  My $.02.

Yes the armatures move freely in both directions (thankfully!) I will double check the magnets too. I dont get any power to the motors at all. Its like its stuck in neutral. Thank you!

@Überstationmeister posted:

Unfortunately, some of these GG1s have issues which might relate to your problem...
There was conjecture that the new "metric" spec Pullmor motor did not have the same tolerances/ build quality as expected since it was an antiquated open frame design unfamiliar to the factory.
Additionally, a washer was occasionally misplaced between the motors and frame (should be under the frame, not above). This caused the wheels to rub on the frame, increasing the current draw, overheating the e-unit. This was compounded by the poorly ventilated, tightly-packed enclosed shell and covered windows which already caused the electronics to run hot. There was also speculation about higher resistance brushes generating more heat. Factory lubrication was also minimal.

In addition, the Conventional Classics sound board is not entirely compatible with the Z-4000 (it "burps"). The spurious bell is also a known issue separate from this incompatibility believed related to electronic noise/ interference and board design.

Various threads exist on this forum with further discussion and details, some of which encompass more of the Conventional Classics line.

Thank you for all the knowledge! I did some more research and saw some of those posts.

You are spot on the Z-4000! I tried a old lionel transformer and the spurious bell stopped haha. Thanks again!

Sorry for the delay in replying, overtime for the holidays has been hectic!

I did try a Z-1000 and Lionel 1033 and still cant get any movement. I checked all the wiring to the board and motors and everything is good. It is a brand new engine, and i can spin the armatures freely, along with the gears. Its like the gg-1 is stuck in neutral. I measured with a meter and nothing to the motors when switching directions.

Thank you to everyones help/advice! I will keep digging and testing when i get some more free time!

Uberstationmeister hit the nail on the head, the only other thing you might try is instead of trusting the Z4000’s direction button, which I’m sure by now you’ve pushed a gazillion times, is to put the engine on the track, power it up to 10-11 volts, and you be the direction button by removing & touching the ground side to your track connection.  Possibly the Z4000 isn’t bottoming out to absolute zero volts to make the reverse unit cycle. If it holds a fraction of a volt, it may be enough to hang it in neutral if it’s so trapped in that cycled position…If the board is toast, …and if you just want to get it running for the holidays, we can all certainly show you how to hot wire the motors so they’ll at least run in one direction. The reversing board in CC’s isn’t exactly the hardiest of boards….they don’t like being amped over at all,……

Pat

Mine had the misplaced washers that caused the E unit board to overheat. After correcting the washers I found it was still getting warm in there. Space is tight with no air holes. I stuck small heat sinks to power devices (transistors? triacs??) plus a tiny fan from a Desktop computer Microprocessor to help cool it.
Point of all this rambling is the E unit may be shot.

Pete