Lionel coupler problems...(solved)

I have found bending the armature a bit works for me,don't bend too much,just a bit.

 

Rod

A small black zip tie will keep it closed and is not that noticeable.

This confuses me as I have Lionel stuff with dummy couplers and they don't open or move in any way.

I'm puzzled. Why would having one possibly faulty coupler lead you imply that there is a systemic problem?

In any case, sometimes just a puff of graphite powder may be all that is needed to enable the pin to lock better. Or as NROD has suggested, it's pretty simple to increase the tension a bit.

The worst case scenario is that you may have to replace the coupler. This is a simple and inexpensive job too.

NROD, I am not sure what an armature is in a coupler. These are the operating couplers, not coil couplers. (yet)

 

Chris, thanks, but no prosthetic devices for couplers will be used on my rr.

 

handyandy, let me clear it up, it is a non-powered engine (dummy) with operating couplers, not a solid claw as in "dummy coupler"

 

N.Q.D.Y.-well, that's why I was asking, is it one faulty coupler (lucky me) or is it common with dummy engines? Not an implication. Seems like a one-off issue.

 

I haven't messed with it yet as I am in the middle of trying to finish a huge mountain/tunnel that hides some crappy stuff on the wall in the crappy basement layout.

Thanks for the explanation Moonman, and I'm sorry if I misunderstood. It's just that there are so many rants and raves at the moment, and so many posts insulting the various manufacturers for the smallest of matters, that I thought that this may be the start of another one.

Again, my apologies, and I hope that your coupler may be easily fixed.

No apologies needed. I bought it as NOS, I finally added it to my train(an MU looks good with the GP38-2). It looked like it had never been out of the box, so just frustrating.

I have noticed the recent negativity lately. Seems like they are shills.

1 - a -dummy- coupler is one piece of plastic or metal, which will in -no way- open.

 

2 - a -mechanical- coupler is one with an operating knuckle, along with all the

     attendant pieces and parts like thumbtacks, armatures and so on, which opens

     through strictly non-electronic means (uncoupling track section, your big, clumsy          

     fingers, etc.).

 

3 - an -Electrocoupler- (or MTH Protocoupler) is just that, and contains a solenoid for

     knuckle opening.

 

You do not have a "dummy coupler". Please.

Moonman, the armature of a coupler is the part that gets attracted by the uncoupling magnet and releases the knuckle. The pin in the end of the armature is what keeps the knuckle closed. Check the spring tension of the armature to insure the pin is all the way up in the coupler, and that the armature is not 'drooping', which will cause unwanted uncoupling. Sometimes a slight upwards bend of the armature will allow the armature pin to lock the knuckle better. Sometimes replacing the armature may need to be done. There are also some slight modifications to the knuckle itself that can be done to cure unwanted openings.

 

Larry

D500,

I think I explained that in a previous reply, but thanks for your detailed answer. Any idea how to stop it from releasing the train during normal operation?

Thanks, TrainLarry.

I am going to take a break from the mountain building and check out the coupler later.

That helps me know what to look for.

In several posts regarding couplers not staying closed, the common resolutions seem to be wrap an elastic or use a black tie wrap to hold the coupler closed.

Would someone please post a picture, as I have am having a mental block how a tie wrap would hold a coupler closed and still couple?

Thanks

I keep black zip ties and small rubber bands available.

 

Peter

TrainLarry & NROD,

Thanks. All that it required was a small tweak to the armature under the spring at the pivot point, well right in front of the hole to get the proper angle for the pin to be in the proper position. I just ran it for about an hour with brakes, starts, stops, reverse etc. and no letting loose.

After working on RTR stuff, the Legacy equipment is put together very nicely and a pleasure to work on.

 

Thanks again, I now know how to keep the couplers tuned.

MrMoe50,

  The tie wrap/elastic band solution is not for coil/electrocouplers, but for couplers that have an armature activated by an electromagnet uncoupling track. The tie wrap is tied around the shank of the coupler to keep the armature from pulling/drooping down, causing unwanted uncoupling. The coupler will remain closed, but obviously will not be able to be opened either with the uncoupling track or by hand unless the tie wrap is removed.

 

Larry

Moonman,

Any chance you can Post a picture showing the area you tweaked the armature? And by tweaking, do you mean you just bent it as suggested above? I just had my first issue with a car and would like to try the fix, but I am unsure exactly what is required. Thanks.

 

Jay in Ottawa

that's exactly what I use, small black cable zip ties.

I get them in packages of 100 at Radio Shack.

jay,

The couplers are most likely different. Mine was on a Legacy engine. Start a new post with the part number of the car and I am sure you'll get some help specifically for your car and problem. One of the shops on the forum would probably have a new one without the standard postage from Lionel.