lionel fastrak manual switch problem

I can not answer this question.

however if you are close to this place someone there might be able to help.

az railroad

Will be on Phx Wed PM and next Thurs.   Will try to contact someone.   Did not find a contact list on their site.   Will check some other places as well   Thanks for reply

They sound like some well used switches to have that physical looseness.

You can eyeball the attachment point by removing the 16 or 18 small screws and lifting off the bottom cover. #1 Philips screw driver.

I don't have one out of the layout now to look at one. I'll try and find a photo.

Well, I found a photo of the bottom and it was no help. I cannot tell if a pin sits in hole or is attached to something.

I think you summarized it correctly in your disappointment with the train store. Don't feel bad because you didn't catch it. It's something that you would have you wiggle with your fingers if you knew to look for it.

Also, some MTH pilots need a little more spring tension to negotiate FasTrack switches from that direction. Also, both mfg.'s sometimes gauge the pilot wheels too narrow so that it will negotiate small radius curves. This will cause it to pick the point.

You probably just have a worn or stepped on switch.

Thanks Carl.    The hole that it pivots in is just too big and allows the rail to flop too much.   Like you said it is well worn.   The wear seems to be the track molding itself as the pin is not bad.  has some type of coating like a fake chrome.   I am going to see if I can find some old brass shim sheets that I used to use in my NCR register days.   Not sure if it is still available.   See if I can get some .005 stock.\

As for the train I think you are right on with the pilot truck.   I plan to washer up the spring and "REALLY" inspect the switch point and maybe tweak a bit.  I do have tight curves as this is a Christmas display and most of all I have never messed with trains until now.   WOW   real interesting as I like to tinker.  I rain my trolley and it worked ok just slowed down a LOT in curves but they are 031 and I don't have the DCS installed yet to enable cruise.    Still learning -  like drinking from a fire hose.   Wil;l be in PHX Wed/Thurs and plan to stop at the AZ TRAIN DEPOT to see if they have any additional ideas.  Probably buy some switches before it's over.

Thanks Again

Bob

The hobby shops have brass tubing. perhaps you can find the diameter of the pivot and find an I.D. to match. Make a bushing. make the plastic roadbed hole to the O.D. of the tubing.

Time vs. new switch cost. Sometimes it's easier to just find another switch.

I would at least grump with seller to let them know you caught on to the fast one.

Don't let it mess up your fun!

If it's a left, here's one from a forum member

Thanks all.   I wound up making a brass sleeve for the pivot pin and it is fine now.   Unfortunately I still have to regauge the front 2 wheel truck on my new P3 Northern Express.   Kinda bummed but MTH service Depot in Phoenix will not service as they are not a "National" service center.   

Good work on the repair.  That sounds like the shop doesn't have a press or wheel tools.

I measure the drivers flange to flange on the inside and do the same on the trailing truck and tender. Then, I pick the mean of those to set the pilot wheels. May be a problem on 031, but it won't pick the points anymore.

You talking about a 1/16th or so on each side plus or minus. It's a little tricky without a puller.

if you fixed the switch, you can do this.